Clever American Steel Pipe Kitbash

I like it! looking forward to the progress

Clem k

I wanted to recess the roll up doors, again to give it depth, and looking at real buildings it prototypical. Because the top of the door opening and the bottom of the windows are very close I added a piece of foam board across the front to give it some added support. Not necessary if you are going to use the printed windows, but I wanted windows that would let light shine thru, and with some visibility inside.

Now the glass. I've seen where some use vellum and print the detail on it. This lets light shine thru. But I don't have any, and there will be little visibility to the inside of the building. I do however have some transparency film. A test print showed quite a bit of visibility thru even though the glass is very dirty.

The next problem would be support. As this is quite a large set of windows just the film and even a couple of layers of cardstock window frames would still be rather flimsy and probably would also bow and look bad. My first thought was to cut the window frame from some mat board. I picked up a sheet at Hobby Lobby, even on sale 30% off. After gluing the cardstock frames to the board and cutting out 4 or 6 window openings it became apparent that this would not do the trick. One I was having trouble getting perfect cuts, I have some trouble seeing, and although quite stiff still not sturdy enough. This building will need to be moved on and off the layout. I will do a couple of different scenes in the space and inter change them. Also it needs to hold up to my Grandsons inquisitive fingers.... I had some small scraps of .093 clear plastic. I wasn't sure if the spray adhesive would look horrible sandwiched between the plastic and the window film. Another quick test and it worked ok. It does give a little bit of frosted look. Wouldn't be good for a clear window, but as these are very dirty it wasn't noticeable. 

A trip to Home Depot and $14 yielded some acrylic .093 sheet. Enough for all the windows with left over. I cut the plastic with my trim saw, circular, with a fine blade. I probably could score and snap, but this stuff will crack. A trip to the sander and the edges were even. After printing out the necessary quantity of windows, I cut them out with my trusty exacto, and proceeded to glue them to the acrylic. I used 3M General Purpose #45 adhesive. Now this stuff is very tacky. You do not get any chance to move it around. If you start off cockeyed, and haven't stuck but the edge you can still pull it back off, but you cannot move it. I applied it like you would vinyl stickers, starting at the edge you stick down and holding up the other end and smoothing down with my fingers, or using a plastic spreader to push out any trapped air as you go. I use old gift card, or credit card. You know the ones they mail out to try to get you to take out those prepaid credit cards. They make good plastic spreaders for glazing putty and plastic body filler for small areas or model work. So here's the windows set into the walls. I flushed them to the front, and used a small bead of hot glue around the inside to attach them to the foamboard walls.

Windows glued to the acrylic.

Front. I forgot to mention I also moved up the lower row of windows as you can see. Again this was to give some room to overlap the backer behind the roll up doors giving me some strength in the area between the top of doors and bottom of windows.

One of the sides. I opted for a single row of windows. I need the room to be able to have the roll up doors on this side open. They will all open together via a motor and screw mechanism. I added one section of 6 windows to get the proper length for the sides. The other side got the same windows, But that roll up door will be fixed.

The next step will be to work out the doors and opening mechanism. As this will need to be assembled before the walls and sides are attached. I have some small DC motors, robbed from dishwasher vent assemblies. I tested one last night and it runs at a good speed to open and close the door.  I will work on that today or tomorrow and post the progress of that aspect of the model.

I need to think 3 or 4 steps ahead to make sure I have thought out how everything will go together so I don't paint myself into a corner.

Well here it is. After 2 1/2 days, 4 doors, 2 door track designs, 2 lift mechanisms, 3 motors, and probably 2 dozen ideas I didn't have the stuff for or the talent to pull off. But she works. A little slower than I wanted but will add a little more drama to the event.

The final, Working, design uses a 12volt DC gear reduction motor, which they sent me incorrectly 5 years ago instead of an MP3 player and told me to keep, 15 RPM. I used a 1/4" dowel for the shaft. And 1/4" is round about. I had to hand sand the flipping thing so it would fit into 1/4" i.d. bearings. The bearing blocks are just scraps of oak. For cable I used some 50# test braided fishing line. I purchased a spool at Walmart last year to re-cable an old American Flyer crane that I put Lionel trucks on. The final door is a scrap of 1/4" Lexan left over from a hot rod project several years ago. I wanted something perfectly flat, but was concerned about weight. That turned out to be a plus with the final design. The rollers were the wheels from that AF crane car. I intend to wire a couple of spdt micro switches that will stop the door top and bottom. Also that will allow automatic operation. You will just have to hold a button long enough to move the door off the closed switch and then it will travel up or down until it trips the other switch. I may make another mount for the motor and will cover up the motor. May also add a couple of cable guide pulleys then I can put a cover above the door to hide the cables and paint or cover it to match the interior. I'll paint all the supports and rod to simulate metal. If they can be seen through the glass the support nearest the motor and the center may get some printed metal ductwork printed on it.

This was the first of the last design. I used a motor salvaged from either a RC car, or most likely a Power Wheels Corvette. I used a reduction gear from an old RC boat. It worked ok. A little fast, but you could control the speed, but with no gear reduction the door would not hold at the open position.

The is the final design works good. Slightly slow, but it might be very close to scale speed for a door of that type.

Here you can see the roller and track design. I cut a grove for the track with my little Dremel table saw. Rollers are attached to door with 6-32 screws, I super glued them to keep them from working their way out.

What a tease!    You gotta post a video. 

Great project!

I knew the video thing was going to come up. And I'll have to figure out something. I do not own any digital video device. I cant figure how to get my super 8 to feed into the disk drive............. There is a higher purpose to the project, more than just a large building. And I do owe some credit for the inspiration of this project to several forum members who for the moment shall remain nameless, if those names were to get leaked at this early juncture it might not result in a failed mission, but the element of surprise is key to success.

Ya know......... I'll have to look my digital camera might have video capabilities. I'll have to check. I might even have to locate the manual........somewhere in the depths of my closet...................

Very cool!  Nice building but I love the door mechanism: I love to work projects like that myself!

Looks really nice but I second the video comment.

If the camera is from a major brand name, chances are its manual is awailable on their website. Do you know the brand and model number?

---PCJ

That was the last design before I gave up, (for the weekend). But it works nicely. I wanted a mechanism that was more hidden, but I too like the look. And painted up it looks industrial. I think I'll just make a round finned motor cover so it looks like a large industrial motor. Once the wood parts are painted to resemble metal it will just add to the look of the building. After it's not a scale type of project.

And Lee I really enjoy your projects and posts. I look for yours almost first. Hoping you will get back to your T.S.R.B. soon.........Oops....Mum is the word.

I just took a look at my camera it has the little projector logo so it does do video. And if the wife didn't move it I think I know where the manual is. But probably don't need it. Once I get the thing wired I'll attempt to post a video of the operation.

Thanks for looking.

Great Job,  the acrylic is a good idea.   I cut the frames out on heaven matte board and is bows in humid weather.  You should post pictures on the board over at Clever Models Thom would love it.

-Ted

This is a fantastic project....can't wait to see the video!

Alan

I too am looking forward to the video. I am always amazed at the creativity of the forum members here

One question on the foam board. Did you just go and ask at the store or was it more like dumpster diving? I think it is a great idea to help contain costs!

Dave

Not a lot of progress. I cut a floor from 3/16" ply. Also had to add some stiffners to top of side wall and end walls. I also constructed the basic roof. It will open to show the interior detail. The roof section lifts out, to detail interior and such. This is only the basic roof structure, some trusses will be added as well as a motorized opening mechanism. Right now I'm kinda stuck on the design of it. My initial idea for a cable system similar to the overhead door was getting really complicated. A second idea to use a gearbox motor and lever to open the roof sort of worked, however the motor just did not have quite enough torque. I could order a couple of worm drive high torque motors, but thats another 35 bucks and not quite sure it would work to my satisfaction. I'm going to try a chain drive system, similar to a residential garage door opener. I ordered a couple of gears to drive the small link chain I already have. Will keep you posted on that progress.

I really wanted to complete the mechanics before finishing the interior and outside of the building, but as I'll have to wait on parts, I may continue on. Since the roof section and all bracing is removable the rest of the building can be completed. I did cut some catwalks to go along the walls. And a larger 2 level floor area to go along the end wall. I need to paint the interior, (should have painted the wood before I assembled the walls), I wasn't thinking 4 steps ahead on that one. Not sure if I want to leave it grey or go with white walls and concrete floor. I need to figure something for hand rails and then I can install the walks, the overhead doors and mechanism. I'll get that done and post a video of the door operation.

Great idea you're working on for the retractable roof. I struggle with whether or not to put interiors in if you can't really see them. Thanks for sharing!  Terry

Ok you asked for it so here goes. For the moment I moved from the main building to an aux building. Every large industrial building need an ample water supply so I set out to construct a suitable water tower. This is sided in the same metal siding. It still lacks some detail and probably some added layers on the siding. I'm not sure if I want railings around the tank platform and what type. I'll either order some Plastruct railing or I might just use pipe posts and steel cable. I thought I'd use this as a test for uploading video. Hope all goes well.

 well that didn't work. I'll try to figure it out and repost.

Ok no video. But here are the pics.

 When activated the water tank rises and a control tower is raised above the building.

 This was the first mechanism. It worked, but shook bad. I couldn't get the screw completly straight. Back to the drawing board.

I borrowed Lee's idea and used a power antenna. When I saw his use to raise his rocket I purchased the cheapest one I could find, just under 18.00 to the door. I had a couple of potential uses on other projects. I'll probably order a couple more after the holidays. They are 12 volt, but will operate nicely on less than 2 volts. I'm using about 3.5 volts, at less it won't budge from the base when moving you could cut voltage to less than 2.

A couple of 3/16" rods stabilize the platform and keep it square. I used a couple of nylon bushings in the base for the rods to pass thru for smooth operation.

It's a shame I couldn't get the video to work. I loose the drama when you see the tower emerge from the building. I won't go into the specifics yet. But you might wager a guess. Hint, look at the name of the industry on the water tank. Enough said.

I may not get too much else done for a while. Still waiting on them to ship gears for drive system on retractable roof. And I need to get several things done for the Christmas tree layout. It's rapidly aproaching.

Test

It appears to work on my end. Poor video and need to experiment with aspect ration for conversion. But let me know if this is viewable. Thanks