Colorado O Scale Modelers final module planning meeting

Jefferson and John J ironing out opinions about a Car Works locomotive.

Many designs are being considered and we built three distinct samples for review. Trinkle Trains and Bob K have been very instrumental in this process. Thank you Bob and Rick

Great! What will be the curves radius?

We are or rather I am having way too much fun

I like what I see. Similar to some 2-track O scale Free-Mo concepts I've designed.

 

Erik, What is your source for the clamp in picture #3. Thanks, Azgary

Nice wood work, but some of those look pretty heavy, especially with their attached & hinged legs. Were there any lighter weight designs submitted? The curved ones with the foam tops look like they might be lighter.

 

Our HO club uses detached 2x2 legs that attach into the corners of the module using a single thumbscrew for each leg, that are very stable & rigid. Because they are carried separately, their weight doesn't add to the weight of the module during transport, they can be bundled together tightly for efficient transport & storage, and they are all the same so that they are interchangeable. Over the past 30 years, we have tried many different leg designs, both hinged and detachable, commercial and homemade, and this is the best compromise for weight, simplicity, rigidity, cost, and ease of setup thus far.

 

Bill in FtL

You are right Bill after a 16 hour weekend standing on your feet running equipment a guy is exhausted; the thought of tearing down a layout with heavy modules is a real bummer. Even if they are still 20 lbs each, 20 lbs feels like 200. One design is spectacularly light and easy to set up and tear down. Spring clamps and 4-5 lbs module units. All stacked in a crate and easily loaded in a van. The existing Longmont Terminal & Northern is a prototype for the lightest design. Most of the guys in the group have little or no experience with module layouts. This may be the reason for the bullet proof portable home layout approach you see. Unless you have a crew of guys the lighter and smaller is a very appealing way to go.

I am not particularly sold on one design yet. The lightweight approach is nice however the framed modules are sturdy. A sense of safety is felt running your $5000 PSC Crown on these while the lightest variety you feel might come tumbling down upon a guy backing into them.

The fellows who submitted proposals are equally talent engineers. What luck to have three retired professional engineers in one group. NASA JPL rocket scientist, Civil engineer, and an enthusiast of the slide rule. These guys are really passionate about this. Believe me when I say you would not want my designing anything.

All the designs have merits and maybe a mix approach of different systems? Or? I'm an confident the fellas will come out with a good design.

All of these issues have been discussed and the guys will vote accordingly. Thanks for you input!

The clamp under the module is, I believe, a De Sta Co clamp.

 

http://www.destaco.com/clamps.html

 

James Jarvis

Thanks James.

More photos of one of the designs.

Another design set.

A design study by one of the engineers that is very informative:

"I have continued to think about the design of the modules, and the design continues to evolve.

Any potential design has to be judged on :

1.     Cost

2.     Rigidity

3.     Ease of construction

4.     Ease of transportation

5.     Ease of setup

Any design we are considering should address these five factors (and there might be other factors that folks can suggest).

At the last meeting I handed out sketches of my proposed design, which I intend to demonstrate with samples at the next meeting on 06 June.

Since then I have searched at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. for quick clamps or latches to join the modules together, and I conclude that they do not exist.  At least I can't find any that suit the dimensions of the mounting surfaces of our modules.    There may be commercial-grade clamps available from industrial sources, but I am afraid that if they do exist (which I doubt) they would be too expensive.  I have decided to use bolts in loose holes.   I will use the shelf or sill method that I described earlier to establish the accurate vertical positioning of the modules to each other.   Then after a slight amount of horizontal positioning, the bolts will clamp the modules together.  

To install a module, we would (a) pull the self-storing leg unit to the vertical position (while the module is lying on the floor) (b) put in one bolt to hold the leg unit in that position so it can't collapse on us (using a tee-nut previously installed in the module) (c) bring the module to the previously-installed module and rest its free end (at the opposite end from the legs) on the projecting sill of the previous module (d) Put in two bolts to temporarily hold the modules together (e) shift the module a little, as needed to align the rails on the two modules (f) tighten the bolts (g) slide the rail joiners so that they connect the rails on the two modules.   This should only take three to five minutes per module.

The holes in the face of the module being installed will be 1/4" larger in diameter than the bolts (fender washers under the bolt heads will compensate for this).   This provides for moving the module a little as needed to align its rails to the previous module.   It also allows for small errors in the placement of the holes.   Each of the matching holes in the previously-installed module will have a tee-nut so that we don't have to juggle both a bolt and a nut.   The projecting sill of the previous module will establish the precise vertical location of the module being installed.

The only tool needed will be a socket and ratchet.  We will only have to install three bolts per module.    The result will be simple, sturdy, rigid, fool-proof, and easy and quick to build.   Everything will be enclosed within the modules and will present a tidy appearance ; only the faces of the side members will show.

I have bought some sample parts to experiment with, and I happen to have bought 3/8" bolts.   These are larger than are needed just for joining the modules, but I got them because they have the advantage of coarser-pitch threads so that we can do the installation quicker, with fewer turns of the ratchet.   But that's a small point.

Since I no longer have a car large enough to haul full sheets of plywood, I plan to use 2x4 shop panels which will fit into one of my two cars.   (I have 4x8 sheets of plywood on hand, but they are allocated to my home layout and besides it would take a major archaeological dig and a great deal of awkward handling to get them out.)   With a little extra planning I can haul 6-foot long boards as will be needed for the curved modules, but I really can't haul 8-footers.   I notice that Home Depot also has 2x4 shop panels of 1/2" MDF and I am going to try using that instead of plywood because it costs about half as much as plywood, it has no grain, and it will present a nicer appearance ; it might not even be necessary to hide it with a skirt or valance if we don't want to.   MDF is a little denser than plywood (1.80 lbs./sq.ft. vs. 1.46 ), so the weight of a 4-foot straight module will be increased by about 1.5 pounds. 

Jim Canter in Indianapolis with a very large Proto48 layout says MDF is the best material for layout construction.

I suppose that some folks would prefer a method that uses alignment pins of some kind installed into tight-fitting holes, which seems to offer automatic positioning of the components.   I would like that too, but I think the degree of precision that method would require is not available to the average amateur layout builder, especially since modules are going to be built by several people.   And if the holes and the pins are not placed exactly right there would be no way to compensate for that.

instead of using a solid 1/2" top on the module, I intend to use 3/4" plywood 8" or so wide to support the two tracks.   The 3/4" thickness compensates for the loss of some of the vertical rigidity that the full-area 1/2" top would have had.   To fill the rest of the area on the modules, I found a 1/2" board (apparently intended to be a sound-deadening material) at Home Depot that is very lightweight, about as rigid as 1/2" foam would have been (but I can't find 1/2" foam) , and only $13 per 4x8 sheet.   This will reduce the weight of a 4-foot straight module by about 8 to 10 pounds.    

One final point :   We might want to establish the length of the modules as 47" or 47.5" instead of 48" because if we use 48" we are going to have more waste of track ; there will be pieces left over that are not quite a foot long and therefore can't be used.   Also, if we ever start with full 4x8 sheets of plywood or MDF we won't get the full 48" of length because we will lose the saw kerf.   It's a curious thing that the shop panels at Home Depot are a full 24" x 48" , so they apparently have come out of a factory that way instead of being ripped out of 4x8 sheets.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.   Also tell me if I have left anyone off the list, that should get this message.

I think this is going to be a lot of fun and I am looking forward to our next meeting on 06 June."

Another design already in use on the LT&N

 

 

I'm quite intrigued at what your group is doing.  Having completed a 10 year run last July with the Independent Hirailers Midwest Division, I've pretty much exhausted my back, and I have zero desire to be crawling under a layout troubleshooting electrical connections. 

 

I'll chime in here with what opinions I've formed over those 10 years for what it is worth. 

 

• If you make the modules 2x4, and too light, the modules will "bounce or fly" their way into and out of the storage racks.  As you correctly point out, after a show, people are in a BIG hurry to pack up and leave. 
• If they are too light, and can be handled by one person, they WILL be handled by one person, at a 90 degree angle to their displayed position, and will get dropped, rough handled, and the layout edges and track will catch on clothing and other obstructions.
• I'd rather see modules that are 2x4, with a fairly substantial construction, and registration pins between modules, that FORCE two people to handle them upright, and take care taking them in and out of the racks.  Two people handling modules upright is a lot easier on people's backs, but FORCES people to slow down when handling the modules. 
• We utilized 36" high modules, which is a great viewing height for the little tykes, but absolutely sucks for working on the underside, troubleshooting, and connecting the modules together.  Any future module railroad I would even entertain building better be at 52" high.  It is a great viewing height for adults, easy to work on if up to 30" wide, and easy to work on for the underside.  A person on a mechanics chair can easily roll underneath to work on / troubleshoot.  
• Love the cam lock design for locking the modules together.  We used C clamps, hard on the back and knees as especially at 36" high, a PITA to clamp modules together.  Nice thing with the C-Clamps, when the layout was clamped together, it WAS clamped together.  Very rigid.  Not sure if the cam locks will be as substantial, and I suspect that the modules ends better be dead flat against each other to have maximum effectiveness. 
• I'm a big lover of foam for layouts, and my whole HO layout extension is built with 2" foam over steel studs.  This is great for a home layout that doesn't have to move.  It looks like the foam prototypes have a great frame for the module to sit into.  Not sure how these will hold up over time, especially if the people loading and unloading these don't take care. 
• Not sure how you are going to do your module electrical connectors.  I believe the group blog stated that you will line up your tracks module to module without a short piece of track in between them.  You can do that because you are using registration pins between modules, as my three rail modules were capable of (until people, including me, started snagging our clothing on modules during setup, or they were bumped during load / unload).  Ultimately, arguments about whether or not to pin the center rail, which became required due to the unreliable quality of the underside connectors, was one of the reasons I threw in the towel.  Double up on the connectors between modules (in parallel), so that there is always redundancy.  Pick a common connector, and more importantly, replace them after 20 or so insertions.  Most connectors are NOT designed for constant plugging and unplugging they are designed for ease of assembly.
• On my HO railroad, I have become a big fan of 3M suitcase connectors (insulation displacement connectors).  They eliminate either a terminal strip, or a soldered connection.  I'm done with soldering underneath a layout.  I solder the jumper to the track, and then use the suitcase connector to connect to the layout bus.  I would utilize two connections per module, unless you folks have a burning desire to utilize DCS instead of DCC, and then you better only utilize one connection per module (which sucks).  Redundancy is good, and one of the BIG reasons I prefer DCC.  It does not care. 
• If you are going to operate in conventional mode with variable DC voltage, the quality of your connections are going to become even more important due to the lower potential. 
• I like the spring lock legs.  We utilized separate legs with specially made metal leg pockets (we ripped our legs to 2" by 2" which is not standard size).  Over time, the wood legs swelled.  On my modules, which were very heavy, somebody went underneath to stuff the legs.  That is preferred by me, as it keeps the scenery face parallel to the floor.  On the lighter modules, they got turned on their side, the legs got stuffed in, and then one or two people uprighted the module with the legs.  Hard on the scenery over time, and darn hard on the back.
• Consider utilizing edge protectors for the module ends to protect the track ends.  You may want to go back and look at what the old Midwest Modu-Track (HO) was doing, their stacking and racking was amongst the best I've ever seen. I'll see if I can find the "Model Railroader" article on their railroad.  I've always wanted to duplicate their design in O scale.  Good artists copy, great artists steal?  
• As a final comment, keep your modular and portable layout simple.  Noting saps the life out of a group that the hard work to set up and tear down the beast.  We quit doing anything by a three day show minimum due to the time required for set up and tear down.  Especially if you are doing one day shows, simplicity is the key.  But that makes for pretty boring operations.  That is one reason I am a fan of Free-Mo, but I'm not aware of any O scale Free Mo groups.  Kind of a pity, I'd probably be doing O scale Free-Mo if there were groups available.

Regards,

Jerry

 

Thank you gentleman for your gracious input! This is just wonderful. A true element of why we participate in these forums.

Further images of one of the designs below

Here are images of the assembled "hybrid" module.  Scale shows less than 20 lb for the module with no legs & no track.  Cost of foam $20 (plus 2x2 ft. cutoff left over for another module).  Cost of wood less than $30. 

General dimensions are 72 in. length x 25.5 in. depth x 48 in. height from floor to surface of foam (on temporary legs).  Interesting coincidence that the cork roadbed and ME track both come in 36 inch lengths, so no cutoff/waste.

I estimate 10 hours labor so far not including shopping.  This includes parts for another module ready for assembly, plus additional rails, cut and dadoed.

Should be of no surprise that the open frame results in a module that is not rigid in torsion about the longitudinal axis.  This is not a problem with all feet on the floor, but is definitely less rigid than Ed's modules.  These legs without intermediate spreaders are a bit wobbly, but I expect this to improve when the final legs are installed.

This is actually a lot of fun and very pleased to finally have a result.

I really like that design. Impressed it came in at 20 pounds given it's wooden framework.

Hi there, interesting thread.

 

I own a 50' by 20' modular layout built by a group of us back in the early 1990s which I bought off them in 2007. I traditionally run NZ Railway (NZR) 9mm to the Foot (1:33.86 scale) locos and rolling stock. Our prototype mainline here in NZ 1066 mm (3ft 6in for you imperial folk) which equates to about 31.5mm track gauge in scale terms. Below is a short youtube clip of the layout.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRnTmDBHwDQ

 

There are 22 modules, the 14 straight modules are 6ft by 2ft (6 either side and one in the middle of each end seperated from the straight runs by two corner modules either side. The 8 'corner' modules which are not symetrical, are the same basic shape but half are 'flipped' and then paired to make a 1/4 corner if that makes any sence.

 

With the assistance of a group of mostly US HO modellers I belong to here in Wellington, we erect the layout mostly for local train exhibitions where we run a combination of NZR and O scale US stock usually on a 2 hour rotation. It's done several local annual AMRA events here in NZ running a combination of US O scale and NZR 9mm trains. The smaller radius of the double track is 108".

 

The NZR rolling stock is a combination of commercial brass locomotives made here in NZ wtih scratch or kit brass/resin/white metal freight and passenger cars. In NZR terms, a freight car is known as a goods wagon, passenger cars are well, passenger cars. A long double headed (two locos) NZR train running around the layout can well exceed US$10,000 in value.

 

Per chance many of the HO modellers here have O scale US rolling stock stored (or is that hidden?) under their home layouts. I have also purchased some US O scale rolling stock which includes a number of locos and freight/Pax cars many I've converted from 3R to 2R. Hence the two hour rotation of US and NZR trains.

 

In terms of this thread original group when the layout was built consisted of three cabinet makers, two professonial modellers, an aircraft engineer (me) and an accountant plus a sales manager - all good skill sets. The modules are built out of 4x1in side and end plates with 3x1 cross bracing and include integral 2x2in folding legs only at one end of each module with a diagonal brace which locks away when folded up. This is all very neat and compact but adds up to a lot of weight.

 

The yard modules have 1/2in 5ply on top with what we call pinex (softboard) on top of that on which the track is laid. They are really heavy and require four pers (our average age would be 68) to safely carry. These seem like 400lb modules at the end of a show! In saying this they have lasted 23 years exceedingly well.

 

We've rebuilt some of the modules and used hi-density insulation foam board in place of the plaster for the scenery. We have also made some fiddle yard modules replacing of the plywood and softboard with the hi-density foam. When the 3in foam board is glued into a 2x1 or 4x1in (my preference) frame with battons running across under the foam sheet at 12in intervals (all wood is glued and screwed together) is becomes an incredibly strong unit and cannot be easily twisted. Both are incredibly lighter than the original modules.

 

To join the main layout modules we use 3in door hinges bridging the modules at each end. The modules were set up on a flat surface once assembled before track is laid and the hinge was then screwed onto the module sides across the ends. The hinge pin is then removed and this allows perfect alignment between the modules and has done for 23 years and dozens of exhibitions. The legs have adjustable feet to counter for uneveness in the floors.

 

The modules are stored in packs of two by seperator end boards spaced out from the end platess by 1/4in to protect the track ends. The modules have their outer edges on the same side.

 

To set the layout up we lay the packs on the inside edges on blankets, to better protect the edge the public see. The legs are then extend (this provides a counter balance for the yard modules which tend to fold in on one another and cause damage - learnt from the hard school of knocks). The end boards are then unbolted (we use bolts with wing nuts) and the modules placed in order in a rough oblong in the space it's to be set up in. 

 

Using a dummy set of legs the first module is stood up and the layout assembled from module 1 around to module 22 which butts back onto module 1. The layout is wired for DC with 17 sections and three circuits plus an off position but we use Digitrax DCC. We run the inner and out loops plus the fiddle yard on synced by but seperate boosters. If a short happens the area can be identified within a minute by deselecting the sections one at a time and seeing when the DCC system comes back on line.

 

It takes about an 60 mins to set up and run the first train but about two hours to set up completely with the exterior skirt and buildings and trees in place.

 

We are designing a new O scale layout and the modules will use foam board, the hinge alignment system and have lighter and probably seperate legs. At the module ends a strip of plywood will be used to mount the track on to prevent misalignment in the event of an accidental drop.

 

If there is any interest I'll post some pics.

 

Rgds Brent

Our club's modules are framed using clear grade 1x4 Radiata pine (lighter) or Poplar (harder) and use detachable 2x2 legs (which are easier to make if you have access to a table saw, but with reasonable care, could be made with hand tools). The legs have one corner cut off at their top for a length of 3-7/16", done while the leg is held in a jig that holds it on edge at 45 degrees, using the saw's mitre guide. This notched end then fits into the leg pocket (which is formed by a 45 degree brace at each corner of the module). The weight of the module is supported by the shoulder of the notch on the leg, which rests on the bottom edge of the corner brace, thus preventing the top end of the leg from putting any pressure on the module's 1/4" plywood top. The brace is pre-drilled at it's center to accept a 1/4"x20 Tee nut which is glued in place before the corner braces are installed into the module frame. It's important to remember that the Tee nut flange must be on the side of the brace closest to the leg. The brace itself is made out of clear grade 1x4 material (either poplar or Radiata pine) and is cut with a 45-degree bevel on each end. We have found 4-7/8" measured across the long side of the brace to be a good size, just be sure they are all the same length. The braces are then glued and screwed into the module frame's corners. When the braces are in place, then the legs are inserted into the leg pocket and a 1/4"x20 x 2" eyebolt (thumbscrew) is threaded into the corner brace (and into the leg) just enough to lightly dent the wood of the leg. The leg is then removed and a small pilot hole drilled in the center of the mark made by the thumbscrew-eyebolt to accept a large headed roofing nail, which is hammered into the leg so that it's head is flush with the surface of the wood. The purpose of the roofing nail is to support the end of the thumbscrew when it is tightened into the leg, thus preventing the thumbscrew from damaging the wood with repeated usage. The floor end of the leg can be fitted with your choice of leveling device, we like to use 3/8"x16 by 5" eye-bolts and Tee nuts, because with their 2" diameter loops they can easily be adjusted with your fingers, without needing a wrench. Worst-case scenario if they are too tight for your fingers, is that you can use a screwdriver or a stick stuck through the eye as a lever. We have found that smaller diameter bolts like 5/16" or 1/4" are prone to bending, but so far the 3/8" bolts have held up well.

 

Bill in FtL

 

Seriously guys this is good stuff. Thank you for taking the time to bring in some input.

Another photo of one of the designs with a 110" radius curve, nice!!. This design is under development for  replacement of The 54" radius curve on the LT&N.

Your construction R&D seems to be coming along quite well.

 

Any design thought given to marrying branch line operations to the double loop.

 

Allowing the ability to incorporate a rambling Free-mo branch line would bring operating interest and increase play value.

 

Free-mo by concept can provide flexible setup depending on venue.

 

Also, stressed skin construction using 6mm hard slow growth Russian Birch for the top and all frame members and 5.5mm "Laun" for a waffle bottom will provide a very durable and light weight unit.

 

Russian/Artic Birch is usually available in 6mm X 60" X 60".

 

 

Tom,

I keep your website bookmarked on my computer.  I was thinking about your benchwork the whole time we were discussing the modules.  However, I'm a late arriving newcomer, both to the group and to this particular meeting.  So I don't yet have a solid sense of what critical issues were identified and which solutions were ruled in or out leading up to the construction of these prototypes.

 

One of the problems I personally have with many module benchwork styles is how they limit topographical relief below the top deck.  Many modules have straight side rails that prohibit the representation of valleys, ravines, creeks, rivers, and so on. I envision some nonstandard modules with side rails cnc routed from plywood, inspired by what I saw on your site.  This should allow a greater variety of terrain while maintaining structural integrity.

 

As I understand it, module standards for benchwork, electrical, and track are still being firmed up.  Obviously there are a lot of variables to consider.  In many ways, I like the general standards for Free-mo that allow for a great variety of layout setups and non-traditional module designs.  

 

Like Free-mo, I think all the critical decisions revolve around the ends of the modules. Track location, height, electrical connections, and module alignment are the big issues. I'd like to see module end panels cnc routed off a CAD pattern to ensure repeatability. I'm a lot less concerned with what happens in between as long as the modules are durable and stable.

 

Jim

Erik,

I am building a permanent RR so I am not into modules but I think your choice of a 6' length is excellent.  Six foot modules reduce the number of modules and junctions by 50% compared to the number of modules and junctions using 4 foot modules.

Cheers,

Ed

 I mentioned on an earlier thread I found the most economical module size of  when using 4 x 8 material is 32"  X  64".  This will provide all frame members and deck from one 4 x 8 sheet.

 

However using 5 x 5 multiply 60" becomes it's own optimum size.hy

 

 

As far as topography goes consider building it into curved frame members or stack two layers of 2" foam on top of a firm frame work.

 

 

Much discussion here has been enlightening and interesting.  As the designer/builder of the LT&N modules Erik has featured in this forum,  I feel some of my thoughts in building the LT&N may be of interest.

I have been involved w/ modular layouts for about 40 years now and have done probably over 50 shows.  The current LT&N has appeared about 20 times in the Denver area (including Cheyenne) over the past 10 years.  My goals are to promote the greatest hobby in the world and O scale in particular.

In reading the comments in this thread between working on the new curves,  I sense there is a great deal of variety in the goals of each group.  As one of our group pointed out at our recent design meeting,  the first step of a project is setting the requirements.  Too many times the construction gets started w/o long thought about the end product.

The LT&N was designed to be a portable layout.  There was never any intent to make it permanent.  As such,  weight and ease of setup were high priories.  Cost was also very important,  this includes materials, time, skills and tools.

I think the construction style can be grouped as modules as someday being part of a permanent layout or solely a portable one to take to shows.  Both are compatible provided the interface is the same.  As a teaching tool,  it would be good to have both in a display.

Several attempts to form a group failed and as a result the LT&N has been a "lone wolf" project.  The Colorado O scale Modelers is the most recent effort and making good progress w/ some very talented people involved. 

Some of the dirty details of the LT&N.  Construction is a perimeter frame of 5mm underlayment sides and 3/4" boards on the ends.  The ends are drilled for 3/4" PVC pegs to index location.  Modules are clamped w/ 2" spring clamps allowing for quick assembly and no bending or stooping (not an option at 71 years of age). Power is carried by a 4 wire buss of #10 or 12 bare copper wire strung under the 2" Styrofoam core and 4 pin SAE trailer connectors connect busses at the joints.  As a note,  Jones plugs were used for many years,  but they got hard to find and expensive. They also require assembly,  adding to cost of time and skill.  

Sides are 2 3/4" deep allowing space for wires and stringers every 12" to support the foam.  Gorilla glue is used for foam/wood interface (it expands to fill any voids and is similar to Styrofoam in physical characteristics) and Titebond for wood/wood joints.  Small nails hold things in place until glue sets.  Results is a composite structure that weights less than 6# for a 2x4' module.  The 110" curve modules are 2x5' to reduce the number of units for a loop.  Photos show below grade contours added by laminating sides and foam to a dip contour.  Very little strength is lost doing this.  Gorilla glue on foam/foam joints is the secret.

Now for the legs (or lack thereof).  Past experience in designing and operating modules have revolved around how to support them.  Having used everything from 2x2 to EMT steel tubing,  I went w/ sawhorses because they were faster to setup and made module construction much simpler.  Nobody leans on the LT&N because it moves,  and they think it might collapse.  Two large (2x2') boxes under joints near the middle insure that won't happen.

Track interface started out w/ 2" pieces of rail.  This proved to be slow and expensive (hard on rail joiners).  Next was 4" jump track,  again,  time wore these down.  Currently rail comes up to the edge and is soldered to screws in the roadbed.  This is working very well and are very resistant to damage.  Dropping at least one module at each show seems to be mandatory,  so far no damage to anything except ego.

Transport was originally loose units in the back of a Subaru wagon.  Currently units are boxed in crates made from 1/4" plywood panels framed by 1x2 lumber.  Panels are screwed together to form a box and 1 panel loose to make a lid.  Rope handles on the ends help in the handling.  Transport is a Ford Econoline.  Overall layout size is 9x35' and consists of 16 units.  New curves loop will be 20x25' and 14 units.  This includes transition pieces for cure/tangent easement.

Post any questions you may have about the LT&N and its construction/operation.  I have very few secrets.

john

 

 

Yup!  That's exactly what I'm talking about.

Jim

 

Tom,

 

Bloody gorgeous.  What did you use to connect all the members?  Screws?  Glue?  Both?

 

ChipR

Extremely creative.  No limits to one's imagination.  Is this for FreeMo?

john

That valley module was for Joe G's  N&W.

 

Awhile ago I used three #1 trim screws in a 3/32" pre drilled hole for each end of each cross member, then I went to three 5/16" hard wood  dowels. After some destructive testing I now use only  Tightbond III and clamping.

 

Modules are joined with 1/4" bolts and brass indexing dowels.

 

Corner glue blocks are no longer screwed.  I have found that screwed or unscrewed corners have the same breaking strength.

 

 

Also, corner glue blocks from 3/4" plywood have replaced my earlier 2X blocks.

 

Sorry for poor photo, however the plywood  corner blocks are visible on the lower level.

 

 

Tom that is fantastic.

Cool stuff!


       

Excellent club project and logo.

Gary

  Cheers from The Detroit & Mackinac Railway