From bolt holes,use t nuts through the holes in both modules and a full threaded bolt. That should do it.

I just use clamps, no holes, and carriage bolts or eye bolts for leg levelers.

I use thumbscrews and wing nuts with fender washers to secure my modules.  As stated above, the holes start out slightly oversized and  get reamed out after several setups.

One solution is to use alignment pins, or if you'll be leaving yours up for several years, sheet rock screws to hold them in alignment after you first get them aligned.

Jan

clem k posted:

I just use clamps, no holes, and carriage bolts or eye bolts for leg levelers.

That is how our modular group did it. 

roto type locks can be used in  that type of application. They are typically used in staging and scenic applications. A bit time consuming to install but they work well when installed.  

I went to the show and two different clubs were there. They both used c-clamps for their modules, saying that it was the easiest  to do quickly. The o gauge club said if up for a longer time the put pins in the outer rails, even though it was a pain, but held the rails even for a long time. I have used t-nuts for a lot of other things but think the holes will still get reamed out over time. I like the roto-lock and might give them a try. thanks for the advice everyone.

Roto type locks are neat and would certainly work, but the expertise in getting them exactly aligned for a bunch of modules it out of the realm for many folks building layouts.

I use Freeman's square brass dowels for modules and lift outs.

These are the same  dowels I used on Mike Reagons TAS traveling modules.  They come in 10 different sizes for almost any application.  Those European cam locks are slick but not too many folks are up to installing them.

Despite the naa sayers the brass dowels work well for passing track power.  You can make wireless lift outs with them.

Coupled with a micro switch you can isolate track to protect open voids.

Modular group I belonged to would level one module,  then just line up the track pins and clamp the section together.   Usually the quick grip clamps were all we needed.  Metal c clamps only if started running low on the quick clamps although we did often use c clamps in the corners. 

The Miami Valley S Gaugers use the Vise Grip welding clamps with the swiveling feet.     MUCH FASTER than c clamps !!  Harbour Freight  , some times on sale for 4.99 !               Bob G.

For past modules I've used T-nuts on the bottom of the legs with carriage bolts to adjust height, and standard hardware store half-and-half hinges. Adjust the height to match the hinge halves, put the hinge-pins in and away you go.

Monoco swivel adjustable feet with propeller T  nuts available from Outwater Supply, North Jersey

The problem with T-nuts (which our club uses) is they tend to fall out.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The problem with T-nuts (which our club uses) is they tend to fall out.

I've used the ones that thread in John, haven't had a problem since. Just drill the hole and they thread in using an Allen wrench.

The threaded ones are great, it's the ones that pound in that suck!

Just put a pan head screw in to catch the edge of the T-nut. No more falling out.

Chris

LVHR