Connecting my Track Feeders to the Bus Wire

I like connector strips, euro are good 

I also prefer terminal strips, I wired for DCS using the 'star' wiring method (no bus wiring). I have not used the other types of connectors you mention, but between the suitcase and Posi-Taps, I would choose the Posi-Taps. Their website or product descriptions should allow you to select the proper ones for the wire sizes you have chosen. 

I’ve used these on my layout. Aluminum neutral bars. They come in different sizes. My DCS signal is a 9 or 10 at all points on the layout. https://www.hubbell.com/hubbel...6C2P10CAG1/p/2020796

Andy

I use these connectors, yellow (for 12 AWG track bus) and blue (for 14 AWG accessory bus) and they have been reliable so far. To be sure to get a good connection, I strip about 1/8" of the insulation (without cutting the bus) and then use channel-lock pliers to get a good closure of the connector. A ratchet type crimping tool helps firmly secure the spade connection. Be sure to test before you progress past the connection step.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-20-...p2057872.m2749.l2649

HustleMuscle400 posted:

Hello!

 

I use suitcase connectors-color doesn’t matter because your sites should be colored. 

I do not recommend stripping the wires-it’s a waste of time and effort🥴

I use a small pair of channel locks to set the connector in the suitcase, before I close the cover-if the cover snaps easily, then I know I have a good crimp. 

You do not say if you are running Conventional or not, but regardless, 8’x24’ equates to at least 64 linear feet of track...

I’d divide that into equal isolated blocks-to get the most benefit of Amperage, for running engines. 

I virtually always solder, because if done properly, it's bullet-proof and lasts forever.  I prefer solid wire as opposed to stranded, because I find it easier to solder.  Not opposed to using stranded, however.  I will use it too, just prefer solid.  This method works great with ANY combination of solid and/or stranded wiring.

After running buss wires and dropping feeders from the track, stripping the wires goes fast and easy with the proper tool.  Here's a pic of an Ideal StripMaster wire stripper, courtesy of Yayhoo images.............

How it works:  Slip the stripper over your buss wire to the proper sized wire gauge opening, then squeeze the handles together.  The insulation is cut and forced apart on the continuous buss wire.  Then select the proper size wire opening for the track feeder wire and strip the end off of it.  Wrap the end of the feeder wire around the exposed buss wire and solder.  If your wire connections are far enough apart where they won't touch and short out, you don't even have to insulate them after soldering.

Did you get all that?  Let's go through that again.  Above is a pic from underneath my N-scale layout (I hung my strippers on a buss wire just for the photo).  FYI, my layout is built similar to an N-Trak modular layout, hence the multiple buss wires.  Okay, so the 14 ga. solid buss wire insulation was stripped (displaced) with the stripper.  Then the insulation on the end of the 22 ga. solid track feeder wire was stripped off, and wrapped around the buss wire.  Afterwards I went through and soldered the connections.  Notice I didn't bother to insulate the soldered joints, they are far enough apart and staggered enough where they can't touch and short out.

This method works great for me.  I find it fast, easy, positive, and above all, inexpensive.  I have never yet had a buss wire/feeder wire problem doing it this way. 

Just a short comment about soldering stranded wire. That’s usually difficult for me if the strands get a little oxidized. A really good additional cleaner flux allows the strands to wet nicely with solder. I like the stranded wire because it’s resistant to breakage from flexing and easier to route...for me.

Mixed Freight posted:

I virtually always solder, because if done properly, it's bullet-proof and lasts forever.  I prefer solid wire as opposed to stranded, because I find it easier to solder.  Not opposed to using stranded, however.  I will use it too, just prefer solid.

After running buss wires and dropping feeders from the track, stripping the wires goes fast and easy with the proper tool.  Here's a pic of an Ideal StripMaster wire stripper, courtesy of Yayhoo images.............

How it works:  Slip the stripper over your buss wire to the proper sized wire gauge opening, then squeeze the handles together.  The insulation is cut and forced apart on the continuous buss wire.  Then select the proper size wire opening for the track feeder wire and strip the end off of it.  Wrap the end of the feeder wire around the exposed buss wire and solder.  If your wire connections are far enough apart where they won't touch and short out, you don't even have to insulate them after soldering.

Let's go through that again.  Above is a pic from underneath my N-scale layout.  I hung my strippers on a buss wire just for the photo.  FYI, my layout is built similar to an N-Trak modular layout, hence the multiple buss wires.  The 14 ga. solid buss wire insulation was stripped (displaced) with the stripper.  Then the insulation on the end of the 22 ga. solid track feeder wire was stripped off, and wrapped around the buss wire.  Afterwards I went through and soldered the connections.  Notice I didn't bother to insulate the soldered joints afterwards, they are far enough apart where they can't touch and short out.

This method works great for me.  I find it fast, easy, and positive.  I have never yet had a buss wire/feeder wire problem doing it this way. 

I think that is a very good way to handle the bus/tap splice situation. 

I used wire nuts. 

I have used suitcase connectors, wire nuts, and Posi-taps. Much prefer the Posi-taps.  I know soldering is most reliable for best conductivity, but Posi-taps are so much easier to install...and remove if that need ever occurs when you want to modify the set up.  Here's the website: https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html.  I suggest to begin with the set with multiple sizes to accommodate wires of different sizes.  Can always order more if/when needed.

Michael

Michael Pags posted:

I have used suitcase connectors, wire nuts, and Posi-taps. Much prefer the Posi-taps.  I know soldering is most reliable for best conductivity, but Posi-taps are so much easier to install...and remove if that need ever occurs when you want to modify the set up.  Here's the website: https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html.  I suggest to begin with the set with multiple sizes to accommodate wires of different sizes.  Can always order more if/when needed.

Michael

Interesting little devices.  I hadn't seen them before.  However, checking more into them, looks like they would work best (if not only) tapping into stranded wiring.  Plus, they are kinda' expensive little boogers, IMO.  Around $2 and change apiece?  Not bad if you only have a few connections to make.  But that will start quickly adding up if you're planning on a lot of drops for track feeders.

Nice devices, I can see where they would be real useful in some situations.  Thanks for pointing these out.  But for buss wire connections on the layout, I will stick with soldering.

Yes, it's best to have the pin end tap into stranded wire (connecting wires fine if solid), and yes, they are pricey.  I had Santa replenish my supply last year.  But they sure are convenient, especially when working in awkward areas.  In my case, my layout is still under construction (is it ever finished??), so making changes in wiring is a snap with these. 

Michael

Mixed Freight posted:

Michael Pags posted:

 

 

I used suitcase connectors.  Someone earlier said color does not matter.  COLOR DOES MATTER.  Find the right color that matches your BUSS size wire and feeder wire.

Depending on the size of your wire, they could be challenging to close.  I have a 10 gauge buss and 14 gauge feeder.  I needed some good pliers and some abnormal strength at times to get these aligned and closed.  Reliability for me has been excellent.  Mine have been installed for 6+ years.

Have Fun!

Ron