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While drooling over Joe's concrete painting thread I thought to add a little show and tell.  While in the process  of building an around the wall pike I needed to span several large valleys.  (Bilco exit door, basement window access, outdoor winter water shut off valve, circuit breaker cabinets, sump pumps, etc). 

Not wanting spend the time going full scale with eleven detailed  prototype bridges 250 or 385 foot long after losing a builder  and always being a sucker for arch bridges I found marine plywood to be my easy way out.

The primary purpose of this post is to mention the paint I used.  Granted not as nice as Joe's but IMO, OK for a quick down and dirty "giter dun" job.

I primed with Rust-oleum #2081 light gray primer, 100% coat of #239121 Caribbean sand, aging fading with #223524 desert bisque.  Mind you, just a quickie, my goal is just to run trains using a thespian's theatrical approach.

These were just to be a fill temporary fill in while "I love Bridges" was still with us.  He passed before he was able to do the work.

Concrete arch bridge 002Concrete arch bridge 011

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Understand, my work is all fantasy. like these 8' bridges;

IMG_8666

The first thing I do is to make an 8  1/2" wide  subroadbed of 3/4" Maple plywood.  Then run a 3/8" router bit along each edge. 

Follow that with placing  3/4"  thick piece of plywood pier face perpendicular to the ROW.  Two for each arch.   Also add several 3/4"  angel edge cross braces to pick up support for the arch roof on the bottom of the subroadbed. 

Then add a 5 ply 1/8"aircraft/marine ply or Masonite face for sides to the uprights with precut radiused arches.  Small arches on the inside, larger radii on the out side face.   I use Locktite premium urathane adhesive for most assembly with a whole big  bunch of  clamps  and a few pneumatic brads just to index the panels not for assembly strength.

At that point with the bridge upside down I avoid all the tricky math and lay in over sized one piece flexible material for the inside of each arch and uprights.  Take some rough cuts, then whittle down to a fine fit then clamp it all in place with the urathane  adhesive.

After the glue is set I sand all edges smooth, fill in as needed and paint.  Lots of paint, lots of coats.  Spent more $$$ on spray paint than plywood!!

I needed a lot of bridges and no have desire to spend a lifetime satisfying rivet counters.  Just a former flooring contractor with a big hammer and a lot of clamps.

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Thank you all for the very kind words.

Something to consider.  All my bridges are less than a full sheet of plywood long.  Working primarily in 2 rail there is less forgiveness with a lack of maintaining plane.  So, all my  bridges have  a tongue so to speak which is gusseted  to the ROW on terra firma.  This provides  flat continuity.  Flat is not level, flat is just flat,  like a surface plate.

The two photos below have tongues which run about 8 inches onto the main benchwork.  64" radius curved bridge.

IMG_8670IMG_8672

The valley will be developed to provide abutment bases.  Again,  first goal is to get trains running.

Concrete arch bridge 003

Look closely at the left end of the bridge in this view, you will see one of the 8" tongues.   I have  found these tongues to be a asset in resolving right a way speed bumps.  This bridge has 72" and 76 1/2" radius tracks.  (0144 & 0153 diameter).

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  • Concrete arch bridge 003
Last edited by Tom Tee

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