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I model on O-Scale 2-rail with conventional cab control.  I did some searching but couldn't find exactly what I am looking for.

Can anyone provide a link that shows how to insulate between blocks and also how to wire and insulate hand built turnouts?

I don't want anything fancy and I won't be running two engines on a loop.  I have done this before using a panel board and 3-way switches for direction and off (for yards).

I believe that when an engine transfers from one block to the next, both power supplies need to be set at about the same voltage but need the proper +/- polarity.  Also, I believe I can not have one common return with my proposed setup.

If I were to bite the bullet I believe I would go to RC control with batteries held in a trailing boxcar, but not only would that be expensive but also limiting by dragging around the power supply with each engine.  Most all of my engines are re-motored or scratch built.  I also build my own Diesel and Steam circuitry.  My engines are full.

Thanks....

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http://tonystrains.com/how-to-...a-long-reverse-loop/

I can't find the old link I'm thinking of. A hand built turnout needs to have the rails cut to provide electrical insulation at the frog. There was a post a long while back where guys actually told me where to cut my Old Pullman switches to use on a command layout. The cuts would do what you need for a reverse section including those switches. I'll try and search more...

I don't have a link  but I have some advice.      

Don't put a rheostat on each block.    Wire each block through the center contacts of a double pole/double throw center off switch.   Then wire 2 separate controllers to the opposite side contacts on each switch.   That way you can control any block with either controller, and you could turn any block off.

As for track switches, just don't let the opposite rails make contact.    Generally you insulate the frog from the running rails of the diverging track.    That should keep you straight.  

 

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