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Alan,

I made a wall using corrugated styrene sheets from Plastruct. If you get the catalog, you can see this material in its actual size. You would want something that has a corrugation about every 1/2-inch and maybe  1/4-inch deep. This would equal about 12" x 24" corrugations. You cam cap the top with a structural shape like a channel. To add detail, you could glue a wood strip down the wall horizontally to act as a bumper.

 

Alan Graziano

Someone on the forum made one, but I can't remember who.  Unfortunately I also can not remember what they used.  Do a search, you may be able to find it.  In the mean time, I will try to do a search and find it.


If you have a table saw, maybe you can get a piece of wood and cut both edges at whatever angle you need.  Just a suggestion

Here is a corrugated seawall like you are looking for.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Hump Yard Mike:

Being from Northtwest Indiana, I wanted a steel piling wall that looked like walls I had seen on Lake Michigan.  I spent the last two months looking for an appropriate substitute, I gave up and decided to cut it out of wood and Masonite.  The wood pieces have 30 degree cuts, glued onto Masonite.  I used primer filler to eliminate the wood look.  Let me know you think, I just finished this today.  By the way, I also used Dennis B's water modeling trick with aqua tex.

 

 

 IMG_2666

 

 

 

 

 

 

 STEP!

 

 

 

 STEP2

 

 

 

IMG_2662

IMG_2663

 

 

 

 

Last edited by jdcrawler
Super good job on the sea wall! ncng
 
Originally Posted by jdcrawler:

Here is a corrugated seawall like you are looking for.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Hump Yard Mike:

Being from Northtwest Indiana, I wanted a steel piling wall that looked like walls I had seen on Lake Michigan.  I spent the last two months looking for an appropriate substitute, I gave up and decided to cut it out of wood and Masonite.  The wood pieces have 30 degree cuts, glued onto Masonite.  I used primer filler to eliminate the wood look.  Let me know you think, I just finished this today.  By the way, I also used Dennis B's water modeling trick with aqua tex.

 

 

 IMG_2666

 

 

 

 

 

 

 STEP!

 

 

 

 STEP2

 

 

 

IMG_2662

IMG_2663

 

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Spence:
Originally Posted by Passenger Train Collector:I'll second that.

jdcrawler:

 

Sensational job!!!!!

 

Originally Posted by mjrodg3n88:

I believe that jdcrawler re-posted Hump Yard Mike's seawall (correct me if I'm wrong Ray).  Its in the link that I posted a couple replies ago.

 

Mike

 

 

You are correct Mike.   I did not build this seawall.  

It was Originally Posted by Hump Yard Mike on another thread about building seawalls.

I just copied his post and pasted it here.

 

I apologize for not being clearer about who built it in my first post.

Last edited by jdcrawler

Tuftex® Polycarbonate building panels have the same general shape as the seawall.

 

http://ondura.com/our-products...rojects/residential/

 

The Tuftex® PolyCarb – Best is the strongest building panel you can buy. Composed virtually unbreakable polycarbonate. It is super strong yet flexible and very easy to work with. Tuftex® PolyCarb is backed by a Lifetime Limited Warranty.

 

 

Buy those plastic panels for all of your O Scale Seawalls. If you buy it in smoke, you might not need to paint it.

 

 

Andrew

I seem to recall that there was a good how-to in Dennis Brennan's "Realistic Modeling for Toy Trains: A Hi-Rail Guide", by Kalmbach.  He made a waterfront area in the layout, a portion of which featured a corrugated seawall.  I'd be more specific about the page, technique, etc., but I'll be danged if I can find my copy of his book around my shop area! 

 

First: More coffee!! 

 

Second: Clean up that mess of a shop!!!

 

Yo, Dennis?....where art thou?  Chime in!

 

KD

Thanks, dkdkrd. You're right. On page 27. I talk about making a corrugated metal seawall just like Alan wants. I made it from pieces of aluminum window screen frame. The pieces come in a kit for making window screen frames. The kit I used is manufactured by Prime-Line. You should be able to find one in a hardware store.

 

Last edited by DennisB
Originally Posted by falconservice:

Tuftex® Polycarbonate building panels have the same general shape as the seawall.

 

http://ondura.com/our-products...rojects/residential/

 

The Tuftex® PolyCarb – Best is the strongest building panel you can buy. Composed virtually unbreakable polycarbonate. It is super strong yet flexible and very easy to work with. Tuftex® PolyCarb is backed by a Lifetime Limited Warranty.

 

 

Buy those plastic panels for all of your O Scale Seawalls. If you buy it in smoke, you might not need to paint it.

 

 

Andrew

Those roofing and building panels would be great but they are way out of scale.

Originally Posted by AlanRail:

This looks good too. but I want to see the top corrugated design without the cap piece.

 

Typically, steel sheet pilings do not have the cap (as shown in the photo above) because when these pilings are driven into place by a pile-driver they are not even across the top.

 

thanks

Actually, most, not all, but most steel sheet pile bulkheads will have a cap. After the bulkhead is driven the tops of the sheets are cut even for the installation of the cap. I have designed many of these bulkheads and always use a cap. The cap locks everything in at the top and makes for a clean looking installation. Also, if people will be around the bulkhead, the cap covers the jagged edges of the sheets and provides some tripping protection.

All of these are great excepting that I want to see the top corrugated design and not a cap piece on top.

 

So I think I found a way to do this; I am using ordinary gar-graves track ( about 8" long) with the ties separated so that another 8" of another track's ties can press fit between the bottom track ties.  Then laying and heating a piece of plastic sheet on the bottom track ties I will take the top track and with the plastic sandwiched between press down with the top track.

 

I could use a vacuum former too without the press but the results would be too square. So the tie separations will be big enough to create the  diagonal shape between the ties. I want about a 3-1/2" long piling so I will need to glue two sest of two tracks together to use as the form and the press.

 

My concern is that the heated plastic may stick to the wood ties; if not, it may work!

 

so here is how it turned out:

 

 1) my double track molds:

20140408_200720_resized

 

 

2.) I placed a strip of .008 thick clear plastic over the mold and then sandwiched the plastic between the top track form. Heating the plastic with a heat gun and using the wood block to press firmly into the track mold:

 

 

 

20140408_200831_resized

 

3) lifting off the top track mold:

 

 

 20140408_200911_resized

4) the resulting seawall

 20140408_201053_resized

 

5) paint and placement

 20140408_201501_resized

 

This was just a test run I will be trying out a slightly thicker piece of plastic.

 

 

020

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Last edited by AlanRail
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