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The last thread on the new Cruise Commander Lite was on a locomotive that actually had plenty of space to mount it, so this time I thought I'd try to put it into something a bit smaller.  Since the stated purpose of this new product is smaller units with cruise, I decided on the RMT BEEP.  I gutted the PRR BEEP and went to work.

 

I installed the CC Lite, an ERR RailSounds 5 board, and a bunch of custom lighting.  I also gave the beep some engineers.

 

Features.

 

  • ERR Cruise Commander Lite
  • ERR RailSounds 5
  • LED headlights
  • Bi-color markers front and rear.
  • Independently lighted number boards
  • Cab Lighting
  • Strobe

I gave it three lighting controls.  The number boards and strobe are tied to the smoke/beacon output of the CC Lite.  The headlights and markers are driven from the front/back lighting outputs.  That left me no way to control the cab lights independently.  Since I don't have electrocouplers, I have a nice on/off switch in the front and rear coupler buttons.  So, I added a two-coil latching relay and it switches the cab lights.  The two coupler outputs drive the two coils of the latching relay.

 

Here's a few pictures and a short video of it's test run with a few ore cars.  I also added the schematic of the lighting wiring in case anyone is curious how all of it was done.

 

 

 

 

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N1

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N2

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N3

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N4

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N5

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N6

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N7

BEEP Locomotive Lighting Schematic

 

 

Attachments

Images (8)
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N1
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N2
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N3
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N4
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N5
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N6
  • BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N7
  • BEEP Locomotive Lighting Schematic
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn
Original Post

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Originally Posted by rtr12:

That turned out very nice. Really added a lot to the little RMT Beep. Sounds pretty good too.  If RMT sees this they might just want you to start doing conversions for them so they can offer them for sale this way.

I don't think a $50 BEEP would sell as fast with $200 worth of electronics and a bunch of labor costs as well!

 

Nice job John. Good to know both motor driver and sound can fit together in this engine. I have a couple of Beeps. One has an early Beep Commander with no serial data and the other has a Beep sound commander.

As for couplers, Lionel has some 1.5" couplers with "A" mounts. I think these would work if you filed off the cams. I have some with "B" mounts but these would result in the couplers set too low. 

 

Pete

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by rtr12:

That turned out very nice. Really added a lot to the little RMT Beep. Sounds pretty good too.  If RMT sees this they might just want you to start doing conversions for them so they can offer them for sale this way.

I don't think a $50 BEEP would sell as fast with $200 worth of electronics and a bunch of labor costs as well!

 

You might have a point there.  Maybe they will need to have a 'slight' price increase and add a 'small' fee for the conversions.  They will be right up there with MTH and Lionel then.   On second thought...it was a nice thought for a moment anyway. Still looks and sounds good!

Last edited by rtr12
Originally Posted by Norton:
Nice job John. Good to know both motor driver and sound can fit together in this engine. I have a couple of Beeps. One has an early Beep Commander with no serial data and the other has a Beep sound commander.
As for couplers, Lionel has some 1.5" couplers with "A" mounts. I think these would work if you filed off the cams. I have some with "B" mounts but these would result in the couplers set too low.

Pete


I have a BEEP with the BEEP Sound Commander, I do like the extra BEEP-BEEP sound, it gets it a few looks.

 

Mounting the couplers isn't the major issue, you'd have to work out a centering spring as well, that looked a bit more difficult, at least with what I have.  I could mount a coupler at the right height, but it would just flop around without some additional work.  In any case, I used the coupler outputs for my cab light control.

Thanks guys, I was pleased with the results.

 

Jon, I did note that the motors were pretty close, I did consider that might be an issue, so I'll keep an eye out for it.  Since the motors are magnetic, I can see how they could attract bits of metal. 

 

I did note that the motor shell also doesn't have continuity to the wheels, but that may have been a fluke.  Since the ends are plastic, I suspect that maybe the steel shell just floats, I wonder if they've always used this design motor?  I checked the continuity between the motor shell and the weight and it was not connected, at least currently.

Originally Posted by ctr:

gunrunnerjohn,

 

Next potential installation. Weaver, PRR, A-5, 0-4-0 Switch engine.

 

I have ERR cruise control in mine but can,t fit sound. Vastly improved low speed operation-- but no room for sound board with this version.

 

Maybe you can do some magic on this great little engine.

The K-Line A5 has room in the engine for a cruise and radio board, leaving the tender free for audio boards and speaker. You should have room in the engine for one of new cruise lite boards.

 

Pete

gunrunnerjohn,

 

The Weaver A-5 is a brass engine with a scale size tender. Probably smaller than the K-Line tender. And there is a boiler weight that fills the front half of the boiler. The can motor fills the rest of the boiler and firebox. So everything needs to fit in the small slope back tender. I had to do some judicious surgery on the inside of the tender to get the Cruise Commander in there.  

Last edited by ctr

If you check my original thread on the Cruise Commander Lite, you'll see that it's a smaller package in most dimensions, and may allow the addition of sound.  Also, the new RailSounds Commander is a single board, so it's very thin and fits in many places it would have been impossible to put the old RS Commander.

 

Of course, if someone want's to donate one of those Weaver engines, I'll see what I can do.

 

 

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Yes, The Brass engines present problems unless your willing to give up the weight and lose traction.  Additionally, the Williams/Weaver drive mechanism takes up more real-estate than the Lio/MTH angled drive shaft.

 

I am working on my own Brass Williams right now and the only real room is for the fan driven smoke unit.   G

Hmm...  I have a couple of 3rd Rail brass engines, and even with the big weight, there is tons of room in the boiler.  I can see the small models might present an issue.  I have a Weaver brass K4 in the closet, but since I got my Legacy K4, I may just sell that one and not convert it.  I have a Williams brass M1A that will get a conversion, so I'll get to look at one, but given the size, I don't see it being a big issue.

When I did the beta testing, there was one small issue with the lighting circuit, so they are apparently re-spinning the boards to correct it.  I was told that they had a few of the beta versions in stock and they'll give you a bit of a pricing break on them as well.  The only issue is you need a load resistor on the lighting outputs if you use LED lighting.

 

Call Ken at ERR and ask about the boards.

 

I presume the order for production is still in the pipeline, I presume they'll be available when they receive the new updated ones.  That's another good question for ERR, they are the ones that really know what's going on there.

 

 

 

GRJ,

I know this is an old thread, but you did your lighting how I want to do it, and I can't seem to get the result that you get with your schematic. I'm only interested in the 3 pin LEDs and one white LED. I'm running into a few problems and wonder if you can help.

1) When I have all the LEDs wired in parallel, which is what I think you did, the two reds and two greens light, but the white doesn't light.

2) Was this an early model of the board where you didn't need the cap? My sample doesn't light without the cap but lights with the cap.

3) When I place the diode in series in the circuit, it kills the current. I try wiring it every which way and the same result. Without the diode everything works fine. I'm using a 1N4007. I can't figure that one out.

I did a bit of searching but couldn't find anything to help.

Thanks,

Scott

Look closely Grasshopper, they are not wired in parallel.   Each LED type has it's own dropping resistor, the parallel headlight bulbs go through the 220 ohm one and the red/green LED's go through the 1k resistors.  I probably could have gotten away with one less resistor, but by the time I thought that through, it was wired.

The one change I'd do is substitute a .01 50V capacitor for each of the two 470 ohm load resistors.  Capacitors dissipate less power and do the same job of loading the lighting triacs.  Of course, if you don't want the cab light control arrangement using the coupler outputs, you can leave off the block of components on the right with the latching relay.  Also, the strobe at the top is obviously optional as well, just leave off the diode and everything beyond it.  I use incandescent bulbs for the number boards as I found they gave me better light.  The bulbs I used were 8 volt bulbs, so two in series gave me just the right amount of light off the smoke output.

BEEP Locomotive Lighting Schematic

Attachments

Images (1)
  • BEEP Locomotive Lighting Schematic

Thanks. That did the trick. Since I'm using fewer LED's I just upped some of the resistor values to get my desired brightness, worked great.

I'm having trouble with the diode. I had it wired in series to the cap and that didn't work. I notice that you have it in parallel. I suppose that will do the trick when I get home and try it? Is it necessary to have the diode when I'm just doing TMCC? I might just leave it out cause I have everything else wired up already on the front set and I'll put it in for the back set. It's more of a best practice than a necessity?

Thanks,

Scott

Which diode?  What cap?  Are you talking about the strobe circuit? It has to be wired as show.

If you're talking about the diode at the bottom of the diagram, while you don't strictly need the diode when running command, it's a standard feature with my LED lighting.  If you fire up the engine and it doesn't see the TMCC signal, it comes up in conventional mode.  The conventional mode lighting outputs are full wave AC at track voltage.  At 18 volts, that puts a reverse voltage of around 13 volts on the LEDs, that's above the maximum reverse voltage specification for most LEDs, they range around 5 to 7 volts.  I lost some LEDs after a few months for no apparent reason until I added the diodes.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

The capacitors that replace those load resistors are wired directly across the lighting outputs.  They provide the load for the triacs to properly fire, the LED's alone don't do the trick.  This wasn't an issue when the lighting was all incandescent, it just surfaces when you use only LED's on one of those outputs.  Other than those, there are no capacitors except for the strobe and the cab light relay circuit.

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