Custom cut track sections

@Jack L

Jack:

My layout uses Gar Graves track and I use a Dremel with an abrasive cut-off wheel to cut track the proper lengths. What kind of track are you going to use?

As soon as you get beyond a simple loop and/or start throwing switches into the mix, you are going to need custom cut sections.  You might find once you start laying track that you need less, or may even need more. Just remember, what looks good on paper (or screen) may not end up working in reality.  Sure those two ends meet, but engines and cars might disagree on its functionality. Cutoff disc (the larger size to avoid having to angle your cuts) on a dremel works best on ross or gargraves.  I have no experience with Atlas track.

Assuming you've created all the tracks, including the 1/4, 1/3 and 1/2 curves as well as the 1.25, 1.75, 4.5, 5.5, 10 and 40 straights to the correct specs, and have tried various combinations to fill the gaps, then it's entirely possible to have that many cuts. You're actually pretty fortunate since it appears you won't have to cut any curves. Then too, AutoCAD probably doesn't allow for any tolerance in the size of the space or the angle to make connections that will work when assembled with real tracks. For example, SCARM has tolerances of .079" and 2°, but depending on the brand of track and equipment being run, the wiggle room can be more. And then there are variances in how closely the tracks adhere to the specs in the first place, especially curves. Also, Ross switches have a different footprint than Atlas switches, so that may alter the size gaps so no combination of Atlas tracks will fit. I don't know if this will help at all, but here's a "cheat" sheet for Atlas tracks showing the available combinations of straight tracks that can fill gaps of various sizes.

You may actually want to use mostly all custom cut lengths.  By using standard 40” sections and cutting to fit, you will have far fewer joints in your track leading to a bit better conductivity.  I used a dremel with a cut off wheel but also a chop saw compound miter saw with a fiber metal cutting blade makes great clean cuts.

The way I used AutoCAD definitely did not allow for any tolerance in placing track sections. I set all the curved sections to either a full 22.5 degrees or a half of 11.25 degrees. As was suggested I will use the longer sections as much as possible eliminating as many joints between sections as I can. I already have track from Atlas O and Ross and will stick to those when purchasing what additional track I need.

I was hesitant about using a Dremel with cut-off wheels to cut the track, as one reply noted, it can be difficult to get the cuts truly vertical and getting each rail cut to the same length. I will probably opt for the chop saw and the fiber metal cutting blade.

Thanks for the help!

Jack

I like this chop saw from Harbor Freight. Remember to file the ends smooth after you cut.

@Richie C. posted:

I like this chop saw from Harbor Freight. Remember to file the ends smooth after you cut.

...and, if you are using some version of a tubular track, use a finishing nail to open the holes in the rails to full size so the track pins fit.

This homemade little track cutting jig and a standard hack saw with a fine tooth blade makes a quick job of cutting track sections at a very low cost,

Charlie

For dremel tool cuts. Cut the track at an angle a little bit long, a ruff cut about 1/4 inch long. Then do a final cut at right angles to the rail to the proper length.

I used the Harbor Freight chop saw that Richie posted above, works great for track.

The only time I used the Dremel with for final fitting of some pieces, and I used the 90 degree adapter so I could get clean vertical cuts.

I'll Probably go with the Harbor Freight chop saw, bu then again I sort of like home made jigs to do things. Track cutting is a ways off right now. Working on setting the grades for my layout now.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I used the Harbor Freight chop saw that Richie posted above, works great for track.

The only time I used the Dremel with for final fitting of some pieces, and I used the 90 degree adapter so I could get clean vertical cuts.

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

The blade in your saw picture looks to be an abrasive cut-off wheel. Is that standard or does Harbor Freight sell that as an extra accessory? That would work best for cutting Gar Graves track.

For me, cutting track with a dremel tool and fiber-glass reinforced cut-off wheel is fairly easy.  I put a strip of painter's tape across the top of the three rails in the area I want to cut, then use a square or ruler to mark the exact cut line across the top of tape with a fine point pen, and then just cut the rails one by one, from the top down.

But, the follow-up, of filing off the splinters, scrap, and flecks on the ends of the cut, using jeweler's files, is a real real pain.   

If I don't do it, then there are high and low sharp points and edges all over the rail surface, top, bottom sides.  Sharp enough to draw blood and create a rough spot for the train to roll over.

Is there any way to make this process easier?

Mannyrock

@Randy Harrison posted:

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

The blade in your saw picture looks to be an abrasive cut-off wheel. Is that standard or does Harbor Freight sell that as an extra accessory? That would work best for cutting Gar Graves track.

Mine came with that blade, it worked great for the Ross/Gargraves track.  I think now they sell the same tool with no blade, that's extra.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Mine came with that blade, it worked great for the Ross/Gargraves track.  I think now they sell the same tool with no blade, that's extra.

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

Thanks for your quick reply. I will probably purchase one in the next few days.

Hello Jack, I started my layout about 35 years ago when I had a young family and cash was scarce. Purchasing the lumber for the bench work and plywood for the sub base was about what I could afford. I bought both new and used Gargraves track. I have many pieces of fitted track. I'm not sure there was an effective way to cut track sections but I did all of mine with a hack saw and drew the blade across the track backwards.  I found that worked fine and quite expeditiously. The saw cuts would have to be opened up with a joining pin but it actually seemed to better the pin connections. I used homasote for sub road bed and just fastened it down with small nails. A hacksaw will work fine. Attached are a couple of pictures of some of the layout. Bill

Why not use 36” flex track instead of sectional track? Then you’ll have all “custom” curves by just bending the track to fit. Much less cutting and fitting this way.

The Harbor Freight chop saw is AWESOME - gunrunnerjohn has recommended this numerous times in the past and I can’t thank him enough - I just used it recently on Super O track and it’s the cleanest / most precise cut I’ve ever gotten with Super O - a pleasure to work with - you will not be disappointed

Thx

Joe S

I do not care for using flex-track for the curves because each rail must be cut to a different length to fit properly with the adjoining sections. For instances, using a 36" piece of flex-track for a 36" radius curve would give an odd 56.32 degree internal angle with outside rail 36" long, center rail 35.39" long, and inside rail 34.78" long. I'd rather cut all 3 rails of straight sections of track to an odd length.

None of the curves in my planned layout require custom cut sections. All are full section 22.5 degree pieces except for a couple half sections of 11.25 degrees.

Bill Park - That is one great looking layout. Thanks for sharing.

Thank You Jack