What is the most accurate and fastest way to cut out window openings in styrene?
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Funny you should ask...wish I knew. I just spent quite some time cutting out
eight sliding windows for a caboose cupola (went to styrene after wood kept splitting).
I just used a pointed xacto blade that I keep sharpening on a stone, and kept at it
until it was done.
I use Xacto chisel blades. I have a bottle full ground to different widths with a Dremel cut off disc. If they are kept sharp they will cut .040" styrene very well. I scribe the window openings first with a straight edge to guide the chisels.
Malcolm
Straight edge is a key piece of equipment. A metal ruler works well. You may want to drill starter holes at the corners.
There is quite an assortment of Dremel tools that could be used for a lot of the rough cut-out. You would still finish the cut with a small hand file.
Even some of the laser cut craftsman kits spend a lot of time and detail on windows.
BTS kit. Note the number of parts.
On plastic, I use a #11 X-Acto and a metal straightedge, followed up with X-Acto chisel blades to free the corners.
On wood, I drill the corners and use the X-Acto and a small thin handsaw.
I use one of these...makes the task quite easy. Bought mine at Radio Shack several years ago, I also see them in the Micromark catalog
Trainhead:
I use two methods:
1- If the styrene is going to be covered with a patterned sheet I don't cut the windows. Instead I build around them - see the photo. This method gives me the most accurate alignment of windows both vertical and horizontal. The styrene is cut in strips. The windows are used to size the openings.
Below is a picture of the wall with a block sheet attached. Also posted is a picture of another building I constructed with the same method.
2- For styrene walls that will show I follow the method other have mentioned above except to start I drill a hole big enough to accept a set of nippers I bought from MicroMark. I cut the basic hole then clean up with an Exacto razor.
Joe
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I'm definitely impressed with the numerous methods and excellent results you all have achieved tackling this basic scratch building problem. For a while now I have used the following method. To assure better stability of my models over the long term I prefer to keep my building wall (1/8" styrene) in one piece. Thus I have to cut out all my windows. I do so by designing my windows to pop in from the back and cast a flange to support them against the wall panel. I make the openings by marking out all the windows and doors on the panel. I then select a Forster bit that is almost the the size of the window opening. This allows me to clear out most of the unwanted plastic. It,s a real fast. I then use square files and a snap blade knife to clean up the corners and side wall. I'm also able to use the window casting as a gauge to get a near perfect fit.
Attached are a few photos of projects I used this method on. A better narrative and photo have been added to my web site under projects. Please check out Westport Model Works on the OGR scenery source list.
Les Lewis
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This is a good thread that I have bookmarked. Alot here for next time I scratchbuild.
Fantastic examples of buildings, too!
I tend to just open up holes for doors and windows starting with a regular utility knife working to the edges then with a #11 scalpel test fitting until good.
However, MicroMark sells a corner punch that some folks like to use for making nice sharp corners and to open up openings for windows and doors.
