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I used Micro Set to apply these decals and then covered with Micro Sol.  What you see here is 5 coats of Micro Sol.

My expectation was the clear film would no longer be visible.  Should I continue with more coats of Micro Sol?  Will it look better once I get a final clear coat over the entire model?

Thanks for your feedback.

Ron

IMG_20200421_115510685

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  • IMG_20200421_115510685
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Ron:

Nor sure what you are asking - if you are asking if the Micro Sol will 'eliminate' the edges around the decal it won't. Micro Sol only further softens the decal so it will sink into uneven surfaces.

There are products out there that are supposed to hide the edges. I tried one and did not like it. Best thing to do is to spray with either a dullcote or clearcote depending on your preference. This won't eliminate but will tone down the edges.

Joe

Ray of sunshine posted:

Ron,

Did you first apply a gloss clear coat on the model BEFORE you put the decals on? If not, then the decal clear film will show through.

Since decal film has a gloss finish to it, putting a gloss coat on before you decal, followed by either a dull or gloss over finish, will hide the decal film.

Question:  Would a "semi-gloss" coat on the model also help hide the decal film before the decals are placed, or will only "glossy" finish do the trick? 

I recently had a similar problem just last night when applying some old Champ decals to a new moderately shiny surface. i took a very fine needle (smaller than a common straight pin) and carefully pricked the film in any area where the film was showing. Soaked in Microsol. Left it alone for 45 minutes. Repeated the entire process (pricking, soaking, leaving alone). The film all but disappeared.

Last edited by modeltrainsparts
Ron045 posted:
BobbyD posted:

Looks like flat black underneath? As mentioned, unless it is glossy the film will show.

It's actually Tamiya semi gloss black.  But before I applied the decals I coated the model with Tamiya X22 Clear.  That is a gloss covering.

Did the surface come out glossy and smooth? It appeared rough in your image. If so that should do it. Micro Sol won't hide the decal itself, it just gets it to snuggle down over bumps like rivets, etc. As mentioned above, pin pricks in the clear spots may help. Many times I've had to put some of it on the surface where the decal would be to get thicker ones to settle down. May "disappear" from view when you Dull Coat it. 

Gregcz1 and others,

I've been painting and lettering with decals for some 50 years now, and have made a lot of changes as newer and better paints and decals have come to market. The one thing that has been a constant, is to give a CLEAR gloss coat over the model before I decal it.

Semi gloss does not do as well, and even if the paint is marked gloss, I find that model paints do not have a good gloss to hide the decal film. Maybe some of the rattle can paints have a higher gloss to them. I don't know as I prefer to stick with model paints as the pigments are not as thick and do a better job at highlighting the details on the model.

So even if I use a "gloss black" paint on a model, I still hit it with a gloss finish. I believe that this results in a much better finish before I decal it.

I finish most all of my models with a dull finish or semi gloss finish, sometimes mixing my gloss and dull coat 50/50. It all depends on what effect I want my model to look like.

One other thing. I always wait at least 24 hours between paint finishes. And I wait 24 hours after the gloss coat has been sprayed before I decal, then another 24 hours before I spray the finish coat. Overkill? Maybe, but not for me. I know others do it quicker, but that's me. I have the time and I want the paints to cure properly. 

RAY

Attached is a sample of an HO model I painted a couple years ago, the deal film in the slanted "Great Northern" lettering has "disappeared".

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  • GN 27064 cust painted RJB (1)
  • GN 27064 cust painted RJB (3)
  • GN 27064 cust painted RJB (4)

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