Dremel recommendation

They will all pretty much work but a battery operated one will be most convenient when working directly on the layout. Use a ~2” reinforced abrasive cutoff disk.

Pete

I've cut a ton of Gargraves and Ross track on my layout and friends' layouts over the years.  I've always used a Dremel with a flex-shaft attachment (#225) and 1 1/4" fiberglass-reinforced cutting discs (#426).  The small hand piece on the flex-shaft attachment is MUCH easier to control than the fat Dremel tool itself.  I have friends who use the fat tool with big cutoff wheels and their cuts are not nearly as clean as mine are.

The tool itself can be any one of several.  I have a variable speed tool, but always use the fastest setting for track cutting.  Get a Dremel with a cord, since batteries will die at the least convenient time.  You'll also want a small 1/2" wide file to clean up the burrs on the cut rail ends.  Once you get a little practice, this only takes about 5 or 10 seconds per rail.

This is all Gargraves track, cut with a Dremel flex-shaft.

Hands down, get a brushless one. The difference is not even in the same class, it's not the same game when cutting track. I bought one for me, one for my younger brother, and one for the club- they are that good.

the new Dremel brushless series (8250 or 8260) can maintain low RPM on the cutting wheel, while increasing the torque as you cut. No more turn it up to 9K RPM then bog it down as you begin cutting and have the wheel explode on you. Again, I can turn mine down to near the slowest setting, cut through track like it's butter- faster than another brand or model spinning at higher speed. I'm not making this up- you have to see it once and you'll throw your old tool away. Again, this cuts through material in a way you have never seen a tool do before- at the lowest RPM setting and not making any noise!!!

Next pro tip- get the right angle gearbox so that you can position the diameter of the disk to cut through the track at a right angle, because otherwise, the size of the tool makes you make angles cuts when cutting a long piece of track. Dremel 575 Right Angle Attachment

Also, another pro tip- the Bosch brand batteries work with the Dremel 8250 and 8260, since it's harder to find the Dremel brand one- had to buy direct from Dremel, you can find the Bosch batteries on other websites. BOSCH 12V Max Lithium-Ion 3.0 Ah Battery GBA12V30

Edit- I mentioned spare batteries just as something I learned. It lasts a LONG time on a single battery. I made probably 40 track cuts and still didn't run the battery down. I'm just saying, if you want a spare- this is one way to get a spare battery without going to Dremel.

I concur with the preceding posters. I’ve used the Dremel 8220 for a number of years for just about everything. But, I’ve never had to cut track with it. For that job, using the flex shaft attachment would be a good idea.

I will second the rechargeable Dremel for ease of working on the layout.  When cutting track, I used the flex shaft and a large 2” cutting disk.  

I used this to cut my Atlas track, worked great got it at Harbour Freight used a discount coupon.

I tried a small desktop cutter like ENichter showed (different model but same idea), but had difficulty precisely lining up the cuts across the rails when cutting my Atlas o-track so ended up upgrading my old wired dremel to the new battery operated brushless model and added the right-angle attachment. It works great -- I'm very happy now.

You know, after reading through this thread, I’m glad I use Fastrack. With its various available lengths from 1 & 3/8” up to 30”, I’ve never had to cut it.

I have the 8220, great tool.  If I were buying today, I might consider the 8250, but I have no plans on replacing the 8220 until it croaks.  I use the right angle adapter to cut track when I need to.  However, like Eric, most of the track cutting on my latest layout build was done with the $30 on sale cutoff saw from Harbor Freight.

@Yellowstone Special posted:

You know, after reading through this thread, I’m glad I use Fastrack. With its various available lengths from 1 & 3/8” up to 30”, I’ve never had to cut it.

Sure, but you can't carry on a conversation and run trains at the same time!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sure, but you can't carry on a conversation and run trains at the same time!

Ha ha!   Well, both loops are laid on homasote boards. So, when the trains are running at medium speed, we can still carry on conversations.

Wow! Seriously thank you to all who posted here for sharing your thoughts. I'm building my first (modest, 10 x 14') layout (track plan attached) and will likely have many more questions. I appreciate this advise more than you can know...I live on the west coast (So Cal) and there just are not many O gauge enthusiasts near me so this help is invaluable. Next question for you guys:

My table top is 3/4 inch plywood to which I will add  1" pink insulation... what is the best way to secure my track and switches once I'm ready? Screws or glue or something else?

Thanks again!

Just a thought, reduce the track plan to one sheet, it'll be much easier to visualize.

Note that pink foam isn't going to add any sound deadening capability if that's what you're going for.   Consider QuietBrace or Sound Choice Board available at big box stores.

I have one store bought Dremel and 4 or 5 garage sale ones.  I keep four of them plugged in with different bits as I hate to slow down a project to change bits.  I also have four 3/8 inch regular drills plugged in with differnt bits too.  On the tool rack above the work bench is a 4ft high, 12inch wide section with several 9 inch or so shelves that three of them old the drills and dremels, all plugged in.

If I were to buy a new Dremel it would be one of those others have talked about running better slow, but I also dislike battery driven drills or Dremels as I never use any of them often enough to bother with batteries.  All my yard tools, weed eaters and chain saws are AC and I have hundreds of feet of wire cord.  They start every time.

Charlie

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sure, but you can't carry on a conversation and run trains at the same time!

What??  I'm sorry I can't hear you, I'm running trains on my fastrack layout.

@ENichter posted:

I used this to cut my Atlas track, worked great got it at Harbour Freight used a discount coupon.

I use the same thing also. always a straight clean cut, still use my proxxon (like Dremel but higher torque) to finish dressing ends.

@Norman R posted:

What??  I'm sorry I can't hear you, I'm running trains on my fastrack layout.

You guys are such exaggerators.

Yes sir, I am going to trust your judgement on that.

@Norman R posted:

Yes sir, I am going to trust your judgement on that.

Over the years I have cut Atlas, and Gargraves/Ross track with a 32 tooth/inch hack saw blade. Then cleaned/adjusted the cut to a finish with a bench/belt/disk grinder.  More advanced cutting, used a small Craftman/Sears (9") band saw with a hacksaw band.  Not sure where you would find these tools, since the demise of Sears.  IMO, Mike CT.   I also purchased the Dremel Right Angle adaptor, which made the tool more useful. IMO.

Note that my wife complains about any sounds I make in the basement.

I tried several things that did NOT work.

A 'Jorgensen' mitre hand saw, and a special order fine pitch metal cutting blade from Europe with teeth. Could not cut tubular track. I could see how this would be good for precise wood cutting.

An abrasive 12" wheel in my existing 12" mitre saw (I used to work for Skil), and a variable speed device to reduce the speed. Still too much noise, too hard to handle, too dangerous.

I ended up with a Delta combo belt sander used off of eBay, the seller happen to live in the Chicago suburbs like me. Has a vertical and a circular. I rough cut the track with either a hack saw or a Dremel, then square it off on the belt sander. The advantage to the belt sander is you can angle it just under 90 degrees so that there is a smaller gap at the top of the rails. I think Harbor Freight as something similar and so does Menards house brand.

Note that back when I worked at Skil, which became S-B Power Tool (B for Bosch), and then Robert Bosch Tool Company, they owned Dremel. Skil is now a brand name owned by a Chinese company with a French sounding name, and Bosch owns Dremel. Note that Dremel is a brand of rotary tool (that got drilled into our heads by the lawyers, they didn't want to loose the trademark Dremel, literally worth its weight in gold).

If you are going to get a Dremel, get one with speed control. And wear safety goggles.

@Roy MacKinnon posted:

Hi all,

Could not find a specific "tools" forum but since this is about track cutting, I figured this would be the place. There are a variety of Dremel rotary tool models available...does anyone have a suggestion on what to get for track (Gargraves Phantom) cutting?

Thanks

Roy, you essentially asked two questions. Should you get a Dremel and whats best for cutting track. Any Dremel will cut track but as you see there are other ways. A rotary tool can be used as you are laying track. If you use flex track and make curves you have to trim the ends as the inside rails will always be longer. Much easier with a portable tool than a chop saw.
A Dremel has endless other uses so best get one regardless. Variable speed is a plus but fixed speed can be used with a variac or a Dremel speed bench controller which is essentially a light dimmer which you can also use. This more for bench use. The older ones are well built so you can assume many of the used ones on the auction sites will do the job. I recently picked up a 30 year old model to use with a older style drill press Dremel used to make and prefer it to their newer press.

If you can find a local store that sells them see how they fit and feel in your hand.

Pete

I always had issues with Dremel tools, the AC model, because the diameter of the tool was too big to make a 90 degree cut, especially on HO track, you had to tilt it a bit.  I use one of those fine bladed hobby saws, or a fine tooth hack saw the few times I need to cut.  The fellow that mentioned the Dremel flex shaft, I can see where that would probably be a diameter that with a good cutoff wheel would make good straight cuts.  As a frugal modeler, figure out how many cuts you are going to make, and weight that against the expense of something that makes it easier, when all you need is a couple more minutes of elbow grease.

@CALNNC posted:

I always had issues with Dremel tools, the AC model, because the diameter of the tool was too big to make a 90 degree cut, especially on HO track, you had to tilt it a bit.

If you want to use the Dremel for track, add this to your toolbox.  No reason to toil away with the hobby saw.

Also consider that Gargraves sells a 2” cutting disk with heavy duty arbor to use with a rotary tool. Our club uses Gargraves flex track exclusively and we have used over 3000 feet of it on our portable modules. The vast majority cut with corded Dremels.

Pete

Well Roy, this has turned out to be an interesting thread. IMHO, if you will only need to cut a little track or cut it occasionally, I would get the Dremel 8250 Cordless Rotary Tool Kit, which supersedes the 8220, because it's brushless. Along with it, I'd get that right angle attachment to make straight and even cuts.

If you are going to cut a lot of track, then that cut-off saw from Harbor Freight Tools looks like it would do the job very well. Either way, you should still get the Dremel, because it's cordless and those rechargeable battery packs seem to hold a charge for a long time. If you get the kit, it comes with 2, so you can have one always ready on the charger. Dremels are durable and you can do a lot more with them besides cut track. Either way, good luck with your decision.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Just a thought, reduce the track plan to one sheet, it'll be much easier to visualize.

Note that pink foam isn't going to add any sound deadening capability if that's what you're going for.   Consider QuietBrace or Sound Choice Board available at big box stores.

It doesn't appear that they do any longer.  At least where I live.

John

@Craftech posted:

It doesn't appear that they do any longer.  At least where I live.

They must have a different sound deadening board.  My basic point was that the pink foam is not a sound deadening material and doesn't do a thing for sound.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

They must have a different sound deadening board.  My basic point was that the pink foam is not a sound deadening material and doesn't do a thing for sound

You are right.  It doesn't at all.

John

@Roy MacKinnon posted:

Hi all,

Could not find a specific "tools" forum but since this is about track cutting, I figured this would be the place. There are a variety of Dremel rotary tool models available...does anyone have a suggestion on what to get for track (Gargraves Phantom) cutting?

Thanks

Hi Roy,

I have installed a lot of trackwork on my layouts through the years, NS code 100,125, 138, 148 track, handlaid and flex track, and have probably gone thru 5 or 6 Dremel tools during that time, but found using a Dremel with Dremel's 420 Heavy Duty cutoff wheels work nicely for me, my current Dremel is a model 3000. I'm currently cutting in a couple new #10 handlaid turnouts and a siding using code 125 flex track. I also always wear a cheap pair of 3.0 cheaters for eye protection and to see the work closely to get my cuts as precise as possible.

More great comments...thank you all. Was surprised to see Gunrunner Johns comment about pink insulation not being good for noise...I cannot tell you how often I have read in various train mags that it is... but I will take your word for it and look for something else. Also, sorry about the multi page track plan; the attached is now a single sheet.

Our club uses cork roadbed. Reasonably good at sound deadening if not the best.

Pete

@Roy MacKinnon posted:

More great comments...thank you all. Was surprised to see Gunrunner Johns comment about pink insulation not being good for noise...I cannot tell you how often I have read in various train mags that it is... but I will take your word for it and look for something else. Also, sorry about the multi page track plan; the attached is now a single sheet.

Just drop into the nearest Home Depot or Lowes and tap on a sheet of the construction foam (pink or blue), and then real sound deadening material, you'll see the difference.

Ceiling tile is also a good alternative for sound. I have Fastrack on it and it is not as loud as its reputation here on the forum. I bought most of it in damaged cases for large discounts.

late to the party?

My Dremel trigger went again for the second time on a second tool. So I bought a Milwaukee 12v cordless rotary. I had to replace the collet but the tool works after years of cutting. I feel that the tool itself, is made better.

I do a lot of track cutting. Now I also use it for installs on just about everything. I used it to cut a vinyl railing post bracket and the post base in an intricate cut.

My wife says it sounds like a dentist office when I'm at the bench.

Well, I do have a Dremel jig saw with the flexible tool drive attachment , but a bit of an issue to bring the whole saw with me to use the flex, so now I am in the market for that right angle unit.  Good ideas always cost me money, no wonder I am broke.   Also, any of the foam boards are not good to use as a packing material, you might as well line the inside of the box with plywood.  And I agree with John, it does not make a sound deadening platform.