DZ-1000 problems

Go to the Zstuff website. There’s a category listing solutions to exactly what you are experiencing.

I have all z-stuff 2500’s on my fourteen Ross switches.  connect the red and black of push button switch to the red an black of the z-1000. Then connect those red and blacks to hot and ground. Red hot black ground . Be sure you solder the wiring to the inside frog legs of switch and the insulated rails match where frog legs are soldered. With the Z-2500 you don’t need the 1008 relay.

should the lights stay on either red or green depending on which way the switch is thrown?

My lights only come on when the train shorts out the isolated rail

Are you saying that you are NOT using the DZ-1002 switch controller?

Look closely at wiring in this diagram. I believe you said you have the dz1002 wired in but it doesn't hurt to check. It is the circuitry in the dz1002 that keeps the LEDs on between switches. The path to ground is through the green or yellow wire back to the dz1002 and then to ground. Also note the voltage range recommended.

I only have a DZ-1000 no other equipment. It work with non-derailer fine but led on DZ-1000 only lights up when the corresponding isolated track is shorted to the the outside rail. Are the lights suppose to be on all the time or only when them train shorts the isolated track?

@tylertrainman posted:

I have the motors wired to the "hot" buss and the push button switch connected to the common "ground" buss.

What you are seeing is exactly what will happen if you don't wire in the dz1002. It is the dz1002 that keeps the LEDs lit. You must wire in the dz1000 and dz1002 if you want the LEDs to stay on. That is the center diagram in the technical note I posted.

I have 34 DZ1000’s without the DZ1002. Many are set up for non detail. I didn’t realize Z-Stuff changed their website and don’t show these diagrams anymore. The R1 and R2 1K 1/4watt resistors replace the DZ1002 button. I do use the SC2 but just think of it as push buttons. Once you do this and then get flicker LED’s during non detail then add the diodes as shown. I hope this helps.

Wow no offense, but all these resistors etc sound complicated. All I have is DZ 2500 and dz 1002 . No resisters all led’s work perfectly. All non derailing. Data driver to legacy train master. White data wire goes to all dz 2500’s. All switches work using my legacy remote.easy peazy . yellow and green wires go to and soldered to frog legs of switch and than cut inside rail for non derailing. Switch machines quiet and no clicking.

DZ2500’s are completely different.

Yes , I started out with the 1000’s, but Dennis Zander owner of z-stuff offered for me to try Dz2500 in exchange. This was awhile back when dz 2500 first came out. He said he Thought I would like them better. Just thought I would put that out there for someone starting out with new layout.

Thanks Ronmiller49. I be clear you don't need the SC2 shown in 1st picture? just wire 2 resistors between common and the L and R terminals.

Yes, that will work. I can mail you a harness that I’ve already made up if you want. Once you know it works you could cut the shrink tube to see how I soldered it together. If interested send me your address to my email.

@tylertrainman posted:

should the lights stay on either red or green depending on which way the switch is thrown?

My lights only come on when the train shorts out the isolated rail

Adding diodes to the non-derail wiring as romiller49 suggests will stop the LEDs from flickering when the train passes but will not solve the issue of the LEDs not staying lit.  You also need those resistors and diodes on the path through the switch motor to keep the LEDs lit.

I don’t know how to post a video but here’s the constant LED lit using the wiring I suggested. You do not need diodes on this hookup. Diodes only needed on non derail wire coming from insulated rail to prevent flicker.