electric problem

NO, the block's are tired together and are wired to the handle of a zw.

Thank you Dale, I will check for continuity in the AM. 

Do you have this problem when moving from block 1 to block 2 and also when moving from block 2 to block 1. How about when going in the reverse direction.

After the train slows down when entering the next block, does the engine pick up speed again?

the engine runs fine in one block as soon as it passes the insulated rail joiner and enters the next block it slows down and will almost stop. Once it enters the block from which it started it returns to normal speed. Hi Denny, Steve P.

Did you clean the track?  sometimes the simplist thing will stop a train, especially dirt/grime.  Aside from that, could be a bad joinet in that section....

Mark

If I understand you properly, one block is OK and the entire other block is a problem. You may want to closely examine the bad block and look for something shorting against it. Did you connect an accessory to it or modify it in any way?

 yep,one good one and one bad one.The odd thing is that it had been fine.I will do another inspection this evening. thank's guy's.

 yep,one good one and one bad one.The odd thing is that it had been fine.I will do another inspection this evening. thank's guy's. sorry,Mark the track is clean, 

I agree with Dale about the Voltmeter not being accurate since it's not a load due to its input impedance. This is the same theory when you get your battery tested at the auto parts store, they test it under load, vice with a voltmeter

Check your wiring for high temp locations, which will indicate a loose (high resistance) connection. I'd let the train run for about five minutes then feel your wiring, AND track. Your track if operating correctly (ie good electrical connections) will be cool to the touch. 

I think that sounds like an excellent way to test the system. It will have to hold till the AM.

Or you could use an ohmmeter, and find the problem right away.

Testing with a load will probably be a more accurate way to find this I would imagine.  I've seen joints that don't show up with an ohmmeter that don't carry any current without a large voltage drop.

My method doesn't use any electrical measuring gadgets, just the human hand.

Run your hand, in contact with the rails, over all the track joints. The spot that is HOT, temperature-wise is a trouble area. Check all the joints and replace or repair the defective pieces of track.

Ron M

Let me start by saying Thank You to all of you who took the time to help me with my problem. Now,"STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES" I have two blocks,each being supplied with two leads off a buss. Now let me say that my eye's are not what they use to be. I had placed three leads off the buss in one block, and only one lead in the other. I mistakenly took a metal rail connector as a plastic one, I use Gargrave Track. I put a temp.feed to the block and the problem was fixed. Again, thank all of you for your help.

Glad you found the resolution!

Cheap fix.