Electronics Question

If it is meant to be operated on DC you should use the DC output of the HO transformer.

I would be careful about the AC terminal of the cheap HO unit. Normally they are less than 1 amp and Lionel AC accessories can quickly overload a transformer that low.  G

Always use a DC item with DC current. Never use a DC item on AC as it may go up in smoke.

DC is straight voltage while AC is alternating between positive and negative at 60 times a second and will cause some real problems with DC only items.

Lee Fritz

Thanks for the explanation. So I will put the "fireplace" simulator/flickering two-light LED assembly with the DC terminals, and the single old-fashioned 14-16w bulb harness (incandescent?) to the AC/accessories terminals...correct? Could such small accessories really overload the HO transformer?

What exactly is the "old-fashioned 14-16w bulb harness" ??

Is that one 14 to 16 Volt bulb, or fourteen 16-watt bulbs?

The flickering LEDs probably don't draw too much amperage.

Why are you not using the ZW's accessory outputs for the AC items?

Dave

The ZW should handle the accessories including lights and trains with no problem.

Use the small transformer for LEDs. Eventually you are likely to use more LEDs as you go along and can keep it for those. Some LEDs will work with AC or DC and as you get further into things, you will pick up on it or can ask here. But never use AC for a DC LED as has been stated... it goes poof.

Sounds to me like you have what you need to get going. Good luck.

Hi--

By the "old fashioned type bulb/harness," I mean to say it's a standard inefficient bulb that screws into the socket and gets hot after just a short period of time. It is a very tiny bulb rated at 14-16w, and the reason I opted not to power it with the ZW is because I fear that my 3-yr-old daughter who loves trains may accidentally crank the dial on the transformer and pop the little bulb. I have the small HO transformer mounted out of sight under the table.

My idea is to power the Lionel 452 signal (run through an MTH infrared activator) with the ZW using the "c" terminals.

Does that sound ok?

You could also replace that incandescent bulb with a screw-in LED unit made for that purpose.

Here are some example replacements

Dave

Your power supply has an amperage limit.

Your bulbs also have an amperage(or watts) listed on the base, or package it came in(or a universal part number on the base, or on the glass in ink( like 53, 191, etc). Wattage is used as an alternative to amperage sometimes.

The are common formulas where if you have two bits of info, you can find the third(amps,volts,watts, etc)

 So if you have four .25amp bulbs, that eats 1amp of power.

You should shoot for a combined total of less than the supplies stated limit. Say 80%.

 Now let say that little supply says 40w is the limit. That gives an all day 32w to use. But unless listed separately, that 32w should count for both DC and AC outputs. 16w each. 16w AC+16w dc=32w.

Regular incandescent bulbs don't care if you use ac or dc to power them. It just doesn't matter or change much you would notice. Very few bulbs are of strictly ac or dc design.

 That ac output is not adjustable, only the dcv(dc volts) are.

Don't accidently mix input and output ratings, both can be listed listed.

.

As a rule of thumb, a 6v bulb on 12v will burn twice as bright for half as long.

A 12v bulb fed 6v, will burn half as bright for twice as long.

But 24v (your ZW maxed +whistle) will burn a six volt bulb in short order. Maybe pop it. 

 A 24v bulb will barely light on 6v.

Its best to match to near the maximum you will feed it with normal use.

The ZW is a monster. It can handle about anything. But Please look into learning how to go about checking the rollers and windings. Do that yesterday or you may ruin it very quickly.

 Since you are using two transformers, you also need to learn how to phase transformers.

Out of phase is very bad.

 I did it "alone" as a kid, directed over the phone. Very easy.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iASQfnE6pCk 

(phase your ZW with the ac side of the dc "power pack" a more common term for most train folk to immediately guess you are talking about a DC supply.)

LEDs are dc. You do need other thing to go with one.

 Any listed as ac have a diode & resistor setup in the "led bulb" base. But that next one you buy must be the same.

Set it up dc, and either type led should work.

You should also consider buying at least a inexpensive multi-meter.

In this hobby it is a very useful tool. You will use it fairly often, and you will learn much faster with one.

 Harbor freight has them fairly cheap, and Gun Runner John always seems to have a handle on finding a good deal online. Advanced Search(in blue), will reveal a bunch of threads on the topic. 

If you wanted to, most ac trains & motors, can run on dcv. Get a rheostat ("throttle"), and you could run your train off your car battery.  

But dc train motors will burn up on ACV.   

you are in southern calif. think about joining one of the many clubs.  we can help with all your questions that you may not understand the answer here.

Adriatic posted: Regular incandescent bulbs don't care if you use ac or dc to power them. It just doesn't matter or change much you would notice. Very few bulbs are of strictly ac or dc design.

Does that rule of thumb apply to DZ2500 switch motors.  Can they be operated with DC voltage?

I don't have those, or a whole lot of MTH experience.

It took a peek, and it appears to be a "smart signal" control.

Its hard to say how dc could affect the end operation of something that "involved".

I would need to see a schematic.

It likely could work with a manual switch, or other mod. Because its just as likely it changes the ac to dc as soon as it enters the control. If that's the case, correct polarity  is all you need.

But if it uses the negative ac wave for another output for a reversed -dc too, it wont work.

As it moves it may use or remove full, half, or use reversed output as a speed control while feeding lots of power for more torque.

 The motor itself, being linier or rotary it could likely be "jumped" to avoid the controls. A dc "stepping" motor should not be jumped really, its hard to anyhow. 

There are others that will know that answer right away.

MTH should answer that with a call I imagine.

Sorry, I haven't had the extra cash kicking, or I would have bought a book from Barry by now just to read deeper on mth.

He helps a lot.

The range in variation I saw is listed at 12-18vac.

The rule of thumb is normal bulbs only really.

Electronics especially, are sensitive to over voltage, ac/dc/polarity.

Mechanical electrical often can be abused on voltage a bit.

It applies to some mechanical, but not all.