@gunrunnerjohn posted:Major progress for the subway! The platform is in place and the track is down. I actually clipped a power from a siding track and ran a couple of cars around. Of course, I had to stop at the clips sticking up from the track, but wiring comes next!
I did give up a lot of storage with the new level, but that's the price of progress.
Needless to say, @Tom Tee played a major role here, we measured all the clearances and he cut the platform to shape in two pieces, just brought it in and plopped in in place! Well, "plopping" it in place did take some doing, because all the lower supports had to be added after the platform was in and then clamped near the top of the legs. The cross members are all nailed and glued with corner braces, somehow I don't think this is going to fall down! Once the platform was in place, just added the one piece of track between the two pieces and it was ready.
It looks great, John! I'm looking forward to seeing it fully sceniced.
-Greg
@Greg Houser posted:It looks great, John! I'm looking forward to seeing it fully sceniced.
-Greg
Me too, what's your ETA and bring a lot of scenery stuff! 
GRJ,
I located the WAGO lever nuts for solderless connections. Did you use that brand, and if so how many? I will be using them on my under-construction 8 x 16 layout. I received a sample from them and also a mounting terminal, they are of superior quality.
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I used an "off" brand, but I'm sure the WAGO brand will be at least as good. I have several hundred of them in use, no issues at all.
@452 Card posted:GRJ,
I located the WAGO lever nuts for solderless connections. Did you use that brand, and if so how many? I will be using them on my under-construction 8 x 16 layout. I received a sample from them and also a mounting terminal, they are of superior quality.
I have been using Wago Lever Connectors for the complete re-wiring of my layout that is currently in progress. I REALLY like them. I buy them in boxes of 50. They get used up quickly.
Finally got around to nuking the annoying Ross Double Slip Switches and replacing them with a bunch of Ross #201 14° switches.
Not only did they cure the issues with dead spots (even with the relays) and shorts over the DSS, but they also make for a much smoother ride. The other major bonus is they removed most of the S-curve issues of the yard entry, the one entry is totally straight now, the other has a gentle curve, about 100-110 diameter. There used to be an O72 more extreme S-curve there.
Finally, now that I have "standard" switches, I could wire them fully for non-derailing, something that was elusive using the DSS.
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John, I've wanted a DSS in my layout for several years, but have not had a place for one. Even have one on the shelf ready to go. I understand the challenge in wiring these and getting the wiring right. I am using motors with built in contacts which would cure the relay issue. Curious about the shorts? Just a few certain cars/engines or everything?
@452 Card posted:GRJ,
I located the WAGO lever nuts for solderless connections. Did you use that brand, and if so how many? I will be using them on my under-construction 8 x 16 layout. I received a sample from them and also a mounting terminal, they are of superior quality.
When I first saw this, I thought they were seats for a passenger car. then I put on my glasses.
@ScoutingDad posted:John, I've wanted a DSS in my layout for several years, but have not had a place for one. Even have one on the shelf ready to go. I understand the challenge in wiring these and getting the wiring right. I am using motors with built in contacts which would cure the relay issue. Curious about the shorts? Just a few certain cars/engines or everything?
It was more than simply wiring them correctly. There are simply too many moving parts in too close proximity to be reliable. The subtle differences in pickup rollers, blind driver widths, etc. causes way too many issues with shorts, especially when using the diverging routes. I know people that swear by the DSS, I simply swear at them. 
I had the DZ-1008 relays wires to minimize the issues of pickup gaps, but then I had periodic shorts with a number of locomotives when going into or out of my yard. I had Kapton tape all over them trying to isolate the place where the issues were, but I was never 100% successful.
Another issue I didn't like is the rough ride over them, there are so many little gaps that running over them sounded like a tin can full of marbles! The ride over my new switch configuration is way smoother.
I have also yet to have a single issue backing into the yard tracks now, that was probably the biggest issue of all.
In summary, they seem like a great solution for switching in a small area, but my experience was that the convenience wasn't worth it.
I am surprised to read of the trouble with the DSS. Is this the one referenced (picture credit to Ross CS website)? FWIW: I had trouble (trains bouncing up and down) with two Ross 30 degree crossovers - and upon close examination the diamonds were not spiked down. Steve apologized and offered to replace but since I had already installed them I made a stop-gap repair with small screws that act as clamps.
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GRJ,
Do you think the same issues apply to the double crossover? I have one on my layout and it seemed to work ok, but long trains struggled. I also have a 4 way that trains got stuck on, too. I haven't used them since because I have been building my other levels. I thought I would tweak them later on, thinking the issues may have been created by the builder (me ). All of my other Ross single switches have run flawlessly for years.
Mike
My older cross over had a plastic diamond. Steve sent me a metal piece to put on top. Unfortunately, I never finished it and cannot get under to finish my wiring.
