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 I wanted an enhanced lighting package for my new GG-1 conversion to TMCC, so I came up with this little board. It senses that there is voltage on the motor(s) and trips a DPDT relay. This allows you to either switch things on for the train in motion, or switch things off, depending on what you're controlling and the effect you want to create.

I used it to implement Rule 17 lighting and automatic cab lighting for the GG-1, so one set of contacts were used to add in a parallel resistor to bring the headlights to full brightness, and the other set of contacts was used to break the cab light connection so the lights were off when the train is in motion.

The board is build in .1" prototype fiberglass stock and of course, hand-wired.

Locomotive Motion Sensor N1

 

After testing, the entire board is encased in heat-shrink to protect it and keep it from shorting to anything. Snappable headers create nice compact connectors for the board.

Locomotive Motion Sensor N2


Finally, the schematic for the board in case you'd like to duplicate it.

 

Locomotive Motion Sensor N3

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  • Locomotive Motion Sensor N1
  • Locomotive Motion Sensor N2
  • Locomotive Motion Sensor N3
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Nice job and especially the assembly craftsmanship

 

If anyone is planning to duplicate this for Rule 17, an asymmetrical time-delay could be added for, say, 50 cents in parts so brief stops don't trip the dimmer.  I noticed some engines with built-in Rule 17 wait a bit after coming to a stop before the headlight dims. But when starting, the headlight immediately turns bright.

and the other set of contacts was used to break the cab light connection so the lights were off when the train is in motion.

I LIKE this idea as not only turning off the cab interior light but also any under cab running lights one may have with those newly developed light chips!



Is it safe to assume it will work in conventional mode as well?


Last edited by prrhorseshoecurve

I figured it was close enough to have it go off when you stop, but the delay makes sense.  I did notice one minor issue, but it's not worth me going back, since I don't have a ready solution.

The voltage across the motor to actually trigger this is about 1.6 volts, after the drop across the Schottky bridge and the Emitter in the opto-isolator.  With the Williams GG-1 and no cars, it'll actually start moving before that, and you do have a period of uncertainty where the lights may flicker a couple of times.  This only happens when using the Cruise Commander 100 step mode and starting out in step 1.  Since the opto and bridge need to be totally isolated and self-powered, I didn't have a ready answer for that. Perhaps your delay circuit might be the ticket, what did you have in mind?  I was thinking of some hysteresis on the relay dropout would be the way to address it.

Since with even a couple of cars behind it, this isn't a factor, or if you start it out at anything but the first step of the 100 step mode of the Cruise Commander, I decided for this generation one circuit that I'd leave it as it was.  However, for the next time...

It is slick to be able to add these features easily to a standard TMCC locomotive, now if I could only duplicate the Legacy sound, I'd have it all!

Originally Posted by prrhorseshoecurve:
I LIKE this idea as not only turning off the cab interior light but also any under cab running lights one may have with those newly developed light chips!


Is it safe to assume it will work in conventional mode as well?


No reason I can imagine that it won't work in conventional mode, it's strictly triggered from the motor voltage.  The only issue I see is the power supply for the relay, that requires 12 volts.  I think I'd probably use a lower voltage relay, and also add a super-cap to allow the circuit to work as you slow down and stop.  Of course, you need some voltage to light the lights!

It was designed with command mode in mind, that's pretty much all I run.

Originally Posted by prrhorseshoecurve:
Is it safe to assume it will work in conventional mode as well?


I think John designed this for TMCC operation.  For example, it appears he used a 12V relay.  However, lower voltage relays (e.g., 3V or 5V) are readily available.

 

John, I was thinking of the fast-charge, slow-discharge asymmetrical time-constant from a diode-resistor-cap.  To keep the cap small, the R-C would then drive a 5 cent transistor to provide current gain (and slow cap discharge) to drive the relay coil.  There's a chance this would solve your first-step problem.  That is, I believe the motor drive is pulse-modulating the motor at the first step so you might be getting some slim pulses at the opto output.  A fast-charge, slow-discharge circuit would effectively spread out these pulses.  Without the spreading, the average value is apparently marginally tripping the relay.

gun

The above 25 cent circuit ought to do the trick. You might be able to experiment on your existing circuit with minimal re-work.

 

The opto output quickly charges the 1uF cap when motor is driven.  The N-FET functions as a switch to drive the relay coil with essentially zero gate current (unlike a conventional NPN bipolar).  The 2N7000 or BS170 are the 2 cheapest switching N-FETs I found at Mouser (about 15 cents).  When the motor turns off, the 1uF slowly discharges through the 1 M resistor with a 1 sec time-constant (1 uF x 1 M).  The zener limits the gate voltage to under 20V which is a typical limit for these low current FETs.

 

Since the FET turns on/off at a few volts, and you're running at 18V or so, it will take several time-constants (several seconds) to turn off.  You can adjust R or C to adjust time constant as desired.

 

The opto output transistor acts as the diode function of the fast charge, slow discharge circuit since it does not drain the cap voltage when off.  I looked up your relay and it appears to require a coil current of about 10 mA.  So let's assume your opto output provides 10mA when the motor is on. Since the charge rate of a cap is I/C, a 10mA current charging a 1uF cap ramps up at 10V per millisec (i.e., very quickly) so the relay will trip as soon as the motor starts. 

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  • gun

Just another thought, dont know how practical it is, is to install a diode package between the motor and reverse board,described here for conventional operation use to slow a motor

 

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...=488&categoryId=

 

the string at each end,clamps about + or - 3 volts,depending on train direction. This can be used for lighting an LED or bulb or activating a common 3VDC relay coil.  Whenever there is voltage to the motor(s) the relay or LED will be on.

 

Dale H

Looks good Stan, I'll give it a go on the next build.  I'm planning on doing another one of these, that looks like a worthwhile addition.


Originally Posted by Dale H:
Just another thought, dont know how practical it is, is to install a diode package between the motor and reverse board,described here for conventional operation use to slow a motor

http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/Bl...=488&categoryId=

the string at each end,clamps about + or - 3 volts,depending on train direction. This can be used for lighting an LED or bulb or activating a common 3VDC relay coil.  Whenever there is voltage to the motor(s) the relay or LED will be on.

Dale H

That could work, I never gave much thought to conventional operation.

That's a DC motor, the Schottky bridge rectifier obviously creates a single polarity to trigger the opto-coupler and thus the relay.

 

As far as Rule-17 for real engines in reverse, I'm not entirely sure.  I would guess that for diesels you'd still bring the rear light up to full intensity when moving, but dimming the steamer front light might not be affected in reverse.  However, it is in my models.

 

I'm going to assemble one with Stan's suggested mods, they look like they'll be a nice improvement.  I'm also looking at getting a PCB made once I hit on a final configuration.

If I remember correctly Lionel flips the polarity of both leads and you don't have a PV sitting at one of the motor leads. How would you modify this for a MTH PS-2 motor?

 

For MTH the relay switches the High PV (about 20VDC) to one of the motor leads depending on direction selected.  The other lead then is flipped to the FET to modulate the return to PCB Ground.  That is why the PV for heater and headlight still exist even in neutral.  One of the motor leads and one of the diodes is always powered by PV.

 

It would be neat to have automated cab light off and on with motion vice operator action, plus you could use a voltage drop to have your rule 17 also.  Would be a nice backfit to MTH engines.  G

No mod necessary for MTH, it works just fine.

 

Remember, the motor leads are totally isolated, they just feed the opto-coupler through that bridge.  The bridge insures I always get the right polarity, and the motor voltage fires the LED in the opto.

 

It works just fine in an MTH locomotive.  The only change that I can see ever being possible would be to have a filter on the output of the Schottky bridge to further filter the opto-isolator voltage, but it works fine without it on MTH and Lionel.

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Good point Jon, I confess to using parts that I already had on hand.   I think I'll look at that option now.


John;

No shame there!

I really like your original incarnation, and I think others here have provided some useful refinements.

Design by committee; ya gotta love it.

 

I for one will be very interested in the final outcome.

 

Rod

 

Well, the new prototype is done.  I'm pleased to say that the improvements both made a difference.  The AC opto-isolator lowered the motor detection voltage about 1/2 a volt, which was expected as I eliminated two Schottky diodes in the circuit, that being the diodes in the bridge.  The FET delay circuit works well also, it delays the turn-off about one second and eliminates any chatter, another useful mod.

 

Here's the prototype and the circuit as it stands now.  I've generated artwork based on the current design, but obviously I don't have PC boards yet.

 

 

Locomotive Speed Sensor Prototype-1

 

Locomotive Speed Sensor Prototype-2

 

Locomotive Speed Sensor Schematic

 

Locomotive Speed Sensor Artwork

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  • Locomotive Speed Sensor Prototype-1
  • Locomotive Speed Sensor Prototype-2
  • Locomotive Speed Sensor Schematic
  • Locomotive Speed Sensor Artwork

Just to put a "bow" around this thread, here's the "final" version of the unit.  It was reduced in size and a couple circuit corrections incorporated.  I've used it in quite a few upgrades.  It's interesting to note that there are actually three isolated circuits to make up this board.  You have the motor voltage driving an optical isolator, the sensor of the optical isolator is powered from track power, and then there's the isolated relay.

I included a sample application schematic so you can see how it would be used in a diesel upgrade.  The board allows me to have Rule-17 lighting, motion controlled cab lighting, and reduced volume smoke at idle.  It's sort of a "poor man's Super-Chuffer" for diesels.

Locomotive Motion Sensor ModuleLocomotive Motion Sensor Rev. 3Locomotive Motion Sensor Sample Application

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  • Locomotive Motion Sensor Module
  • Locomotive Motion Sensor Rev. 3
  • Locomotive Motion Sensor Sample Application
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

This really brings TMCC locos up to speed.  Great idea!

The reduced smoke output is a nice application.  

Will this be a new product at Hennings/JW&A?

If not, will the boards or kits be available?

Bob

PS:  If you continue to come up with these great upgrades, I'll never get that layout built.  All my time will be at the bench with my soldering iron. 

 

Bob, I listed some of these in the For-Sale quite a while back to gauge interest, and got no takers.  Given that fact, I decided not to proceed with a volume build.  I could probably order another set of boards and make the blank board available pretty cheaply, probably about $3-4 shipped, it could be mailed in an envelope.  A parts kit would probably be around $15-18 shipped, you get into packages at that point, shipping goes up to $3-4.  I never went beyond hand assembling some of these for my use, but they've proved very handy in some upgrades.

PS:  If you continue to come up with these great upgrades, I'll never get that layout built.  All my time will be at the bench with my soldering iron. 

Why do you think I haven't gotten my layout built?

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

John,  As stated before, you are a great asset to our hobby of O gauge.   A very interesting and useful upgrade, sir.  I will have to give these consideration as I perform upgrades on my motive power roster. I can see these put to use in many engines I have, both diesel and steam.  I  have a list for ERR now for ordering and use.  Also, your valued opinion, seeking a Liontech RS 2.5 rev. 1.2 to replace one non-functioning in my St Fe B unit # 200B.  I know I could go with ERR for same, but looking at cost, mainly, and possibly keeping original.

Thanks, and keep up your originality in thinking and producing so many great items for upgrades.

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

Jesse, I'm not sure where you'd find the old RS 2.5 board.  I had a couple, but they went for other people doubtless doing the same thing.  You can take the chips out of the RS 2.5 board and put them into a RS 4.0 board.  That with the rest of the RS 4 package, the power and motherboard, will get you going.  It probably ends up being the cost of the ERR upgrade, but if you want to keep the original sounds, that's one way to go.

I wonder if in your For Sale post it was just not understood what the board did? Have you thought about maybe giving it another try now that there seems to be more interest after folks figure out it's capabilities?

I have mostly PS3 engines so I probably won't be a candidate, but it does sound like a really good product that would be useful for many folks here. I also need to stop buying engines, I now have more off the layout  and stashed below it than I have on it. 

Anyway, just a thought here...

John,    Thanks for the information on the RS board.  I will start a separate post concerning this with pictures and description of plug connections for a better idea what I have here.   I know it would be simple to do this with the RS Commander and MINI Ex or Dummy Loco Controller.  But, this avenue would have a cost of approx. 130.00 plus......  Hoping the replace "in kind" with original trigger and other connections will be at a lesser cost.  I do not really require to be TMCC controllable.

Are you considering putting together a board and parts kit?   That would assist many, like myself, to expedite the process and an assurance of correct parts delivery.  If so, put me down for a start of three kits to try my skills in this build and upgrade.

Again, many thanks....

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

Well, assembling a parts kit is more time consuming, not to mention I have to have the parts.   I'll give it some thought, but that's why I made sure the BOM had correct part numbers.

It's just hard to gauge how many people actually want either bare boards or full kits.  There's a Catch-22 in the parts kit.  In order to get decent prices, I have to order significant quantities.  But if I order significant quantities, I am likely to be stuck with a lifetime supply of parts.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

As we discussed, I've given this some thought, and probably about as far as I'd be willing to go is getting blank boards.  When you go for automated assembly, you have to commit hundreds of dollars up front for the tooling, I'm not convinced I'd ever get that back. 

I can get blank boards in small quantities without ponying up big bucks.  However, I don't really want to hand assemble dozens of these either, hence my thought about the blank boards.  Obviously, this limits the audience to folks that don't mind soldering little parts onto PC boards.   Now, if we could find someone that would do assembly...

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