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Any ideas on what is wrong' Installation was completed.  Tested with battery power, engine sounds, horn, perfect.  After re-installing the shell, put on tracks and nothing.  I have installed ERR sound boards in Williams models, never a problem.

The initial testing was perfect'..  I have re-examined everything, but cannot find the problem. 

Another question, Can a sound board be installed in a dummy car without any other boards, and hooked to direct power from the wheels, and will it operate'...

  Thanks for any assistance you can provide'....

 

 

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Pictures of installation Please.

Yes, the sound board all by itself can be powered by track and operated conventionally, but needs a commander board to be driven by TMCC. Mini Commanders can do that.

Wiggle your wire connections. Make sure no pins on the bottom of your sound board are touching chassis or another board. One touch and it can be fried. $35 + $15 for exchange of new / warranty, fried boards.

Scott Mann

 

sdmann posted:

Pictures of installation Please.

Yes, the sound board all by itself can be powered by track and operated conventionally, but needs a commander board to be driven by TMCC. Mini Commanders can do that.

Wiggle your wire connections. Make sure no pins on the bottom of your sound board are touching chassis or another board. One touch and it can be fried. $35 + $15 for exchange of new / warranty, fried boards.

Scott Mann

 

Thanks Scott for responding, much appreciated.  I've installed the ERR sound boards in other Williams models. I even place a small plastic bag over the unit as to ensure it does not touch any metal surfaces.  I wasn't aware of your warranty service.  I just may send it back as you mention...

It is really puzzling as to what could have happened'...??? 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Ted, disconnecting the board out and connecting just the two-pin power to a transformer and the speaker connections to a known good speaker.  See if you can get conventional sounds with that arrangement.  That will let us know if the board is alive at all.

Debugging is just eliminating variables until only one is left.

Thanks you John for your information.  I will try what you have instructed'....

I appreciate your assistance and help'...

The sharp pins on the bottom of the board can easily pierce a thin plastic baggie, especially if it's pressed on with any force. The best way to ensure isolation is a thick foam sticky tape or insulation paper (tough like cardboard).  These circuits are delicate. One wrong move and Sizzzle.

 

Scott

One little trick I do with these before installation is to trim all the long pins on the bottom of the board.  If you decide to do this, you MUST be careful not to damage any SMT components near the pins being trimmed.

I still don't put them into plastic bags, but I've found as a bonus that without the longer pins holding the adhesive backing off the PCB, they stick better. 

I frequently use sticky-back Velcro strips to attach my sound boards, that allows me to remove them easily if desired.

GGG posted:

So you tested it fine on the chassis, then just added a shell?  Plastic or brass?  What was attached to the shell?  Can be easy for a wire to come loose from the Command board unpowered? When you say nothing not engine lights or motion?  So much more to know....  G

Hi GGG,

Shell is plastic'. Nothing attached to the shell.  Nothing metal touching the board. Insulated with foam and plastic.  I know how delicate these units are. and I have installed several with no problems whatsoever'.. This is why it is so puzzling to me......... No loose wires or connections...... I've spent way too much time on this unit.  I sealed it back up and placed on the back burner until I fell like fooling with it again.  It has been super detailed with P&D accessories.  Running, tail and LED headlight installed, and other detail parts'.  Also re-wired in series'...

Runs beautifully, just no sound'.......  Could just be a defective unit..

  Thanks for asking'

SAM_0805SAM_0809

 

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