Fastrack

You can barrow lots of ideas and techniques from the Lionel FasTrack Modular specification:

https://lionelllc.files.wordpr...oad-manual-ver-2.pdf

http://www.lionel.com/products...ad-template-6-37150/

yes, I saw that before I did my layout but unlike that model -- I couldn't get the tracks to "end" with each section.  I am seeking to make something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM1H0URvKX8  work??

By the way -- thanks for responding!

I would just cut the track as cleanly as you can. If powered from both sides, as in both modules, you shouldn't even need jumpers.

When the Lionel LCCA modules were designed, each track ends 2 1/2" from the end of module. A 5" straight is used to fill the gap when the modules are assembled.

Having that horse out of the barn already, I would suggest that you remove the pins where track joins and focus on alignment, like modular layouts use.

Clamping the sections together, then drilling holes for 1/4" carriage bolts may be the simplest way to put the pieces together.

The LCCA method uses the template to set track and module alignment holes and coffin locks bolted in the holes set by the template for precise alignment.

There is the modular club, The national Capital Trackers that are very active and present with a very large layout. They just clamp their modules together.

I have attached the specification from their website. Page 10 explains the clamping. 

Since you will not be up on legs, cut some notches in the board to allow for the clamp to up in the end enough to clear the floor. Metal C clamps.

The method they described for the electrical connections is helpful. You could use trailer plugs. Another club in Pittsburgh use electrical outlets and standard house plugs reliably with their large modular layout. FreeMo is another modular style that you could borrow ideas from for a solution.

Anyway, choose the method that you like to make the pieces fit.

John H posted:

I would just cut the track as cleanly as you can. If powered from both sides, as in both modules, you shouldn't even need jumpers.

This would definitely work, although the gap left by the blade kerf would remain. You can somewhat cure that by using Lionel O tubular track pin, but there will still be gap that the wheels will hit. 

Try to rework the track plan for a small piece to span the table joints. Perhaps a 1 3/4", 4 1/2" or 5".

Create a "tubular" track for the module junction.  Cut a straight, drill out the plastic ridge that supports the rail, and insert pins in one piece.  Aligning pins to join modules is easier than Fastrack joining.

You could do these like Mianne does in their demo at York.  They cut the Fastrack at about 30 degrees for the lift-bridge, and when the bridge is down, it mates up perfectly and trains run seamlessly over it.  The angle cut in a smaller degree is what Fastrack sections have for every joint to minimize the hammering as wheels go over the sections.

IF you cut the track clean (and then I use a belt sander to make a nice clean edge) you should be able to butt the track together with no issues, as long as the board alignment is good.  No pins required.

My travelling back-of-the-van layout has cuts where the layout folds in half, with wires feeding both sides, and they work perfectly.  the space between rail ends is tight so no space/slot issues.

Note: hinges raised above track height to allow clearance... only needed if it's folding.

BY far, the best way to join sections is with a 5" section between "modules".... works perfectly every time... on our modular setup, there is sometimes a gap where the joint is, but the trains run smoothly over them... seems like temperature and weather have an effect on the tightness of the fit.

A few years back there was a topic called "How To Build Custom Fastrack Fitters". You can search it out. It showed how to shorten a standard Fastrack piece by cutting out a select center section, then joining the two end pieces together using standard O gauge track pins. You could use this same technique to join your track ends where the modules meet using pins. This would completely solve alignment and continuity issues. Just a suggestion. 👍

Rod