Fastrack connection question

If you have room to either add or replace 10" of straight track you could substitute some of these: FasTrack Transition Piece SKU: 6-12040 .  The traditional O Gauge round pins on one end of these transition pieces are easier (in my opinion) to join and disconnect than standard FasTrack connectors.  If needed, you could also use some type of cam lock (think Window latch) to cinch up the connection.  I know there's a more robust type of cam latch used for securing sections of modular layouts together, but I don't recall at the moment what they're called or where to find them.  Window latches or simple draw latches may work well enough if secured through the foam board into something solid underneath.

4x  

+ 2x or

Thanks!  If I were to pull the pins out and let the tracks touch/line up, while making sure that each end had power to it, would that work as well?  It took me a good while to try to snap the track together.  When someone creates a lift out bridge, isn't that the same approach where the track doesn't connect via pins?

What you're proposing could work.  Yes you are correct that FastTack pins can be removed (with some difficulty) and that if the two halves of the bisected track circle are independently powered, these are two steps towards a solution.

I think the two halves of the circle would need to be secured together so that the movement and weight of the train doesn't cause any separation over time.

A pair of one of the suggested latches may help resolve this.  If this set-up is on carpet, some kind of thin plywood stiffener under the circle joints may help prevent any possible derailments at the seams caused by the weight of the train pressing down at those points, but this would depend on the weight of the train, the weight of the base plus track and such, and how much the carpet might give under the weight of the locomotive.