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Fastrack Remote Switch Problem

GD GTW DonOGR Forum Member
I have a FT Remote 036 Switch with the following issues:

(1) Doesn't switch, controller doesn't appear to get power (not lighting up)
(2) Auto derail not working
(3) Lots of sparking (on both the straight and curved sections, past the frog)

Using track power. The switch is getting power (lantern lights up, trains goes through it). I checked the controller wiring, even unhooked & rehooked it up. Also, I replaced it with a spare switch, using the same controller, and the new switch works fine... so doesn't appear to be the controller &/or controller wiring.

Any suggestions? It's only a few months old, and hasn't seen much use. Appears there's something going on "inside" the switch. Is it worth opening up, or should I return for repair?

Thanks for any help!
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RickORickOOGR Forum Member

Remove the bottom cover and check the operation of the(black) micro-switches at either end of the switch mechanism's travel.I had the same problem, the switch mechanism was not closing the micro switch completely on one side and the train wheels were activating the non -derail feature, causing sparks because the switch did not "know" the it was already thrown in the correct direction with the micro-switch not being activated.

 

To test the micro switches, manually throw the switch in either direction with the lantern,at the end of travel in each direction watch the micro-switch and listen for the "click" telling you its closing correctly, if theres no "click" its not correctly completing the circuit.

 

I fixed this problem by simply adding a small piece of tape to the side of the switch mechanism where it contacts the micro switch, this enabled the switch mechanism to close the micro-switch fully by acting as a bit of a shim. The switch has never been a problem since.

 

Additionally I and a few others have had a fastrack switch "jamm". I found that the switch motor was not snugged completely allowing the gear to ride up out of the rack, jamming it at the end of the switch mechansim, tightened the motor screws, problem solved.

 

Hope my directions aren't too confusing, they will make more since when looking at the bottom of the switch with the cover off. Its always easier to exchange something if you can, but for me the worst part of opening these switches up is removing the dozen or so small phillips screws from the bottom, the mechanical part is fairly simple.

Last edited by RickO
JS J ScottOGR Forum Member
Originally Posted by RickO:
Remove the bottom cover and check the operation of the(black) micro-switches at either end of the switch mechanism's travel.I had the same problem, the switch mechanism was not closing the micro switch completely on one side and the train wheels were activating the non -derail feature, causing sparks because the switch did not "know" the it was already thrown in the correct direction with the micro-switch not being activated. To test the micro switches, manually throw the switch in either direction with the lantern,at the end of travel in each direction watch the micro-switch and listen for the "click" telling you its closing correctly, if theres no "click" its not correctly completing the circuit. I fixed this problem by simply adding a small piece of tape to the side of the switch mechanism where it contacts the micro switch, this enabled the switch mechanism to close the micro-switch fully by acting as a bit of a shim. The switch has never been a problem since.Additionally I and a few others have had a fastrack switch "jamm". I found that the switch motor was not snugged completely allowing the gear to ride up out of the rack, jamming it at the end of the switch mechansim, tightened the motor screws, problem solved. Hope my directions aren't too confusing, they will make more since when looking at the bottom of the switch with the cover off. Its always easier to exchange something if you can, but for me the worst part of opening these switches up is removing the dozen or so small phillips screws from the bottom, the mechanical part is fairly simple.


A new right hand remote is switching as the engine crosses over the and sending the tender the other way.  I will be trying your fix this evening.

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