FasTrack switches not receiving power

Do you use track power or accessory power?

This nearly drove me crazy last week. I was using Cat 5 24awg. Somehow one of the wires broke inside of the cable. I check the power wires to the switch  for continuity. The re-check the connections. proper place, good contact.

Are other things connected to the power pack before the breaker trips? If not, I would recommend bench testing the switch to see if there are any internal shorts.

-John

If I attach a piece of straight track directly to a transformer and attach the switch to that I get power readings at the rails but the lights fail to illuminate.

1) How do I know if there's an internal short?

2) How do I fix it? 

I know some people enjoy repairing trains but I'm not one of them. I bought a train set because I want to run trains. Call me crazy, but I expect a $90 switch to last longer than a year. I'm rapidly getting to the point where I just want to smash all my Lionel stuff with a hammer and stick to N scale which hasn't given me a single problem. 

The jumper from track jumper and Aux in is the only place it receives power when using track power. Start there. Make sure the jumper is there and is connected securely.

You'll need a multi-meter to test further.

Using your same test bench test setup, set the meter to ACV (~V) and check from Aux in to  AUX GND or the GND between turn & thru. Are you getting voltage there?

If no, verify the connection of the jumper. Remove and replace it securely.

If yes, you'll have to remove the back. Change to meter to Ohms. Follow the wire from the aux-in terminal to the board. You want to check the resistance between those two points. It should be about 2 ohms. If it isn't, the resistor in that line is open (bad) and needs to be replaced. It is a 2 ohm 1/4 watt. You'll notice an area on the wire that looks like tape. It is heat shrink with a resistor.

What did you find?

Moonman: Thanks for the detailed instructions. I'll try those tonight. 

I did try something else: I removed the jumpers and attached the power wires from the transformer to the AUX GND and AUX IN ports underneath the track.

Switch #1 worked when I did this. When I removed the power wires, reinstalled the jumper and went back to track power it was dead again. Not exactly sure what that means but ultimately I was planning to run these off constant voltage from an an accessory transformer and that seems to be working so I might be good to go on this switch. 

Switch #2 barely lit up when I did this. The switch lamp only slightly glows and there is no illumination at the switch lever and the switch refuses to throw. When I reinstall the jumper and go back to track power it's completely dead. Seems like some power is getting through but not enough to do anything. Not sure what that means or how to fix. 

Those connectors are a pain. Make sure the jumper is touching the edge opposite the screw and then tighten it.

You may want to bench test them without the controller to rule that out. If it lights with power, you can test the throw with a piece of wire and touch turn & gnd or thru and gnd momentarily to test. Another part to rule out.

I'll look at a switch later. I don't think there is anything between track & aux in power.

Let me know what you find if you can check the aux-in in-line resistor wire. That's a common issue. I don't know what cooks them, but they do fail.

It just sucks when you touch something that was working and then it won't.

SeattleSUP,

   Are your FasTrack switches Command Control?  If so there is a program button on them, for some reason when I installed my new Y CC, FasTrack switches I had to activate the Switches by pushing and holding the black control button or the switch would not come on line.  Simply put power to the track and push the black program button on the Switches.  If you have the older regular type FT switches you pobably have a short or a damaged switch.

PCRR/Dave

I checked the resistor on Switch 1 and it's fine. Switch 1 will work when powered by AUX GND and AUX IN but when I put it back onto the layout and apply track power it causes the circuit breaker on the layout to trip. 

At this point I'm completely burned out on dealing with defective Lionel crap. I've never encountered any company in any field from whom I've received so many defective products. 

When you get frustrated with something a simple item is overlooked.

The symptom indicates a dead short. Check that the jumper is not on Aux In & Aux Gnd.

I'll open a switch in a little bit a check where a short could possibly occur from the track power input.

Deep breath...in.....out....

Thanks for the info, I saved that in case I run across the same issue.

SS,

   My recommendation is to return the switches to where ever you purchased them, and get correctly wired new switches, especially if you got them from your local LHS, I would also have the new switches tested before you brought them home, this particular store owner might have received more than a few of these incorrectly made switches. 

PCRR/Dave

Took the dead switch to the every wonderful Eastside Trains in Kirkland, WA and they were able to quickly diagnose it and discovered that the board was fried. Bummer but they have replacements in stock, they're fairly inexpensive, they're only going to charge me a nominal charge to swap it out and they'll be able to fix it in just a few days. I'm lucky to have such a good shop kinda sorta nearby (though I sure wish they were open on Sundays!)