fastrack uncoupler

Welcome to the forum!

I have never noticed that line, until you pointed it out.  I looked at the manual, online, to make sure.

The only reason I can of think to not connect it to the CW80 accessory posts is because Lionel says to power the track with 10-12 volts auxiliary power and the CW80's acc. posts are set at 14 IIRC.  I believe you can change that though...check the CW80 manual for changing the set accessory voltage.

I just looked and the CW80 manual says the accessory posts are set to 12 volts at the factory.  I don't know why the uncoupling track can't be wired to them.

Thanx!

You actually went to the trouble to look it up!

I think that you're right. I'll adjust the voltage and try it!

sandy

It doesn't need to be - it gets its power through the track - install the fast track section on a powered track and it will work without connecting it to anything else

CandO

Thanx again.

Let's say I can't get it to work, can you suggest a power source that I can use?

sandy

reh111

Thanx.

The problem is that you have to be right over the magnet and in neutral...that's hard for me;

I'd rather be going slowly and uncouple

I'm able to uncouple going slowly as long as I'm over it, so I can't help - sorry, and although I'm pretty new to this also, I'm not sure getting more power is going to allow you to uncouple at any location other than right over it - I can understand that more power would allow you to uncouple at speed but I still think you'd have to be over it - good luck

Thanx!

I must be going slower as it's not working for me....

If your operating your trains conventionally,via the throttle on the transformer, the slower your trains go the less voltage there is for the uncoupling section to operate. You'll either have to run your trains a bit faster or stop the copler over the track place it in neutral and the raise the throttle up to get the voltage up to operating level.I own 2 cw-80's with the throttle pegged at full, they only produce about 14 or 15 volts. Take the loco off of the track, leave just the cars on and line up a coupler with the uncoupling track, then bring up the throttle slowly trying the uncoupling button and find how high it needs to be to operate the uncoupler reliably. This will give you a "rough" idea of where the throttle needs to be when the train is operating and you want to uncouple. Additionally check your rolling stock, some have a "thumbtack" style uncoupling mechanism that hangs down from the coupler that must be lined up with the uncoupling magnet for it to work. Those that do not have a visible "thumbtack" hanging down have a mechanism centered underneath the truck and the truck must be centered over the magnet to operate.

RickO

Thanx...don't get old! I just figured out what the end of CandO and yours relates to....

Anyway, thanx for your reply...I don't want to use track power to operate the uncouplers and still can't get a reason why Lionel says not to use accessory power....

I'm just gonna try it and see what happens.

thanx again

sandy

The reason for the caution on the CW-80 from this 2008 manual excerpt is because of the improper orientation/relationship of the "A" post(s) to the "B" post(s) on early transformers.  The first versions of the CW had "A" common to "B", and the "U" posts were variable.  The later versions with "U" posts common, with a "G" prefix date code, will work fine with the uncoupling sections wired for constant voltage from the accessory "B" post.  Program the accessory voltage to give satisfactory operation.

When the manual was printed, Lionel was aware of issue with the binding posts, but was in the midst of a fix for it, which resulted in the modified CW.

Continue to heed the warning about extended operation - the wiring for the Fastrack section heats up pretty fast in addition to the plastic on the track itself, and the new controllers, while looking like the old original 1938 style RCS versions, are not nearly as robust.

ADCX

Thanx!

I'm going to try it.

You guys have been SO helpful.

regards

sandy

Not a good idea with command/control.  My TMCC direct lockon turns off instantly if I just stick the decoupling track on and use track power.  I'm feeding it with a 180W brick, so I doubt the available power is the issue.  Also, 18 volts gets the coil hot in a couple of seconds!

I'm so new to this I don't even understand what you just said

me too!

but thanx.

The issue with the uncoupling track is more than 10-12 volts to the coils will quickly overheat them and either warp the plastic or cook the coil.  I'd recommend you use the previously posted instructions for separate power, they're also in your user's manual for the Fastrack uncoupling track.

I mention command/control (aka TMCC or DCS) because they run at a constant 18 volts on the track.

thanx!

I would recommend changing the button. I have a small layout on the floor under the train table for my grandson and had an uncoupling section hooked up to a KW aux. I'm lucky I have everything hooked to a powerstrip because at some point the button stuck on and melted the track and the carpet underneath it. I can make the button stick on another one also.

          John

Probably not a bad idea, they certainly are cheap buttons.

Good topic, as I wish to eventually add two or three Fastrack uncoupling tracks to sidings on my layout.

From what I've read in the posts above, the Fastrack uncoupling track MIGHT MELT or cause other damage (ie: FIRE) if I just pop it into the layout. That sounds horrific and it doesn't make sense for Lionel to sell this item if it is potentially dangerous.

I am currently powering my Fastrack using a 100W MTH power brick and a Zcontroller It came with the Rudoph The Rednosed Reindeer ready to run set). I will upgrade to the DCS system in about a month or less.

Should I avoid the Lionel Fastrack uncoupler completely and just separate my rolling stock by hand? That seems so Fred Flintstone.

This thread raises concerns about the Fastrack uncoupling track being potentially dangerous to use.

Advice please. 

As long as you follow the suggestions given you should be fine. Bear in mind all electric uncoupling tracks are nothing but an electromagnet and as such are prone to overheating if you hold the button down for an extended period of time or you try to operate it at a higher voltage than is recommended.

Ron

Hi Guys!

Thanx for all of your responses; I think that maybe Lionel scans this forum, because they responded as follows:

Sanford, The CW-80 Accessory terminal has a very low amperage output. Using them could damage the CW-80. Thank you, Lionel.  

The uncoupler manual states that the power supply needs 10-12 volts at one amp.

If you note in the instructions, they also tell you not to hold the button down for more than a few seconds, that's for good reason.   Also, running at higher voltages will also increase the current, and the power dissipation shoots way up in the coil.  Your 12 volts, assuming 1 amp is 12 watts.  However,  the same track running on 18 volts would draw 1.5 amps and dissipate 27 watts!  As you can see, when the voltage goes up, the power really shoots up!

Uncoupling tracks were originally designed in the "heyday" of Lionel 50 some odd years ago with operation done under conventional control. The new ones are "for the most part" the same concept. Anyone running conventional espescially with a cw-80 has lttle to worry about, unless your uncoupling your trains at full throttle, not likely. I own two cw -80's they top out at about 15v. My layout is command powered with 2 lionel 180w bricks. I have 3 fastrack uncoupling tracks on my layout, however I have them wired for "auxillary power"as the instruction manual describes for a command layout. No big deal,I use my cw-80's for accessory power, and wired the uncoupling track to the throttle side of one so I can appropriately "tune" the voltage,they work perfect no risk of meltdown. If ultimately your going to upgrade to DCS, its a good idea to have a seperate transformer for any accessories be it uncoupling track, dump tracks building lighting or whatever. Most if not all accessories require a voltage signifigantly less than that of the 18v recommended for DCS/TMCC/Legacy. Rununning your asccessories at the proper lower voltage will reduce the risk of damage not to mention extend the life of any light bulbs that may not be rated for 18v. Track power is track power on my layout and thats it, any lighted buildings,moving accessories,or operating tracks are powered seperately at lower voltage. One exception I have made is my fastrack switches which are rated at higher voltage,yet at the same time use very little, so the get powered by the track. Lastly, seperate power sources makes it easier to track down any power issues(i.e. shorts or whatever) should you ever have any.

Terrence, You can use the 14VAC Aux power on your Z-1000 brick to power the Uncoupler as shown by ADCX Rob above. It will work fine, just remember not to hold that button down for more that a couple seconds.

And as stated above, these uncoupler pieces have not changed in design in decades.

That is why you need to use caution in modern operation.

And I would replace that cheap button with a good one from an electrical supply house. One that is rated for millions of uses and won't stick.

It's funny that they haven't added a thermistor wired in series and thermally bonded to the coil to the design, that would prevent meltdown with a low cost impact.