Skip to main content

I got a lot of used Fastrack which included a 5” uncoupling section and the uncoupling button(photos attached). I have a basic layout set up for my kids and would like to just use track power for now. The uncoupling section arrived with the button wires removed so I am not sure how to wire it (The manual only has pictures of using a separate power supply). I think I wired it correctly(photo attached)but it still doesn’t work even when I crank the power. Any help/advice on how to get this working would be much appreciated!

In the future I plan on changing to direct power instead of track power. I also read in the manual that I should not use accessory power from a CW-80 transformer. Would accessory power from a z-1000 be OK?

Attachments

Images (3)
  • C49E28B9-DF92-4921-B589-677CCB294FDF
  • D752E19B-1CB8-414F-9C87-AD8C5E3BDFF1
  • B526A166-897C-42EA-B37C-A5FB6B1BB91E
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

There is a spade connector coming out of the bottom of the center rail (it's somewhat hidden by the grey plastic H shaped insulator). Under the right side of the H, there is raised lettering indicating Track Power (TRK PWR, also yours has a red dot next to it).  If you move the red spade connector to that tab it will be connected like it was from the factory to operate on Track Power.  You have the black connector from the controller in the right place.

An AC source between 10 -12 volts is recommended.

Uncoupler_wTrk-Pwr

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Uncoupler_wTrk-Pwr
Last edited by SteveH

Accessory power from the Z will be fine, but if you have a newer CW-80, you should be ok to use it's accessory terminals to power the uncoupling section per ADX Rob's explanation, below:

  "The directions were correct when originally issued with the first version of the CW-80 in the marketplace, which had the flawed wiring scheme making the red "A" and "B" posts common instead of the black "U" posts.

The reason for the caution on the CW-80 from this 2008 manual excerpt is because of the improper orientation/relationship of the "A" post(s) to the "B" post(s) on early transformers.  The first versions of the CW had "A" common to "B", and the "U" posts were variable.  The later versions with "U" posts common, with a "G" prefix date code, will work fine with the uncoupling sections wired for constant voltage from the accessory "B" post.  Program the accessory voltage to give satisfactory operation.

When the manual was printed, Lionel was aware of issue with the binding posts, but was in the midst of a fix for it, which resulted in the modified CW.

Continue to heed the warning about extended operation - the wiring for the Fastrack section heats up pretty fast in addition to the plastic on the track itself, and the new controllers, while looking like the old original 1938 style RCS versions, are not nearly as robust."

So, for those of us that are not using a CW-80 and using a 18 volt 180W brick directly wired to the track. How do we go about reducing the voltage from the track to prevent a nuclear meltdown of the uncoupler? I tried this one time and it got very hot, very fast. There's got to be a way to step down the voltage to a more usable voltage. I'm surprised that Lionel hasn't come up with a mod for this issue.

Last edited by Jayhawk500
@Jayhawk500 posted:

So, for those of us that are not using a CW-80 and using a 18 volt 180W brick directly wired to the track. How do we go about reducing the voltage from the track to prevent a nuclear meltdown of the uncoupler? I tried this one time and it got very hot, very fast. There's got to be a way to step down the voltage to a more usable voltage. I'm surprised that Lionel hasn't come up with a mod for this issue.

There are lots of ways to drop the 18VAC from the 180W brick down to the recommended 10-12V for the uncoupling track, described in detail in the Electrical Forum and in the Control System Forums.  One simple way if you don't fancy electronics projects, would be to get an inexpensive used AC transformer for Conventional O gauge operation that comes with starter sets (not Lion Chief DC wall wart).  They start at about $15 used.  There are some for sale now here in the For Sale forum.

Steve,

thanks for the response and the picture. Everything is working fine now with the uncoupled using track power.

I have a used CW80 transformer that I got with the Fastrack lot. I attached a photo of the underside. Is it an older model that I shouldn’t use the accessory power for the uncoupled? Or is it OK?

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 7305EB8F-CD63-4E01-9D1A-43A9ADEF3BEF
@GG14449 posted:

Steve,

thanks for the response and the picture. Everything is working fine now with the uncoupled using track power.

I have a used CW80 transformer that I got with the Fastrack lot. I attached a photo of the underside. Is it an older model that I shouldn’t use the accessory power for the uncoupled? Or is it OK?

I don't know firsthand the history on the CW-80 instructions to the extent RC Richie C. replied above.

If you don't have the manual, here's a link to the current version on Lionel's website.  I'd tend to think it is correct.  It describes how to adjust the Accy. voltage.  Since you bought this used, if you have a multi-meter, I suggest that you check the Accy. voltage to verify it's actually putting out 10-12 VAC after you set it.  If you need help with wiring, let me know.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4198-251.pdf

Be aware that the black plastic pushbutton can stick. If it does, you will tend to melt the uncoupling track pretty quickly. It is designed to only be on for a short period of time, which is all that is needed for the uncoupler to do its job. I had a few stick. some do, some do not. I eventually changed all my pushbuttons to a more reliable design. If you press the black button and it pushes back after you let go, then in may be OK. If the button kind of sticks on the way back, then that could be a problem. Out of 20 uncouplers, I had 3 or 4 pushbuttons that stuck and fried the uncoupler. I still have a few of the original black pushbuttons in use, so they can be OK. Just make sure the "spring" is pushing the button back up after you let go of the button.

For extra piece-of-mind, you can install a so-called PTC resettable fuse in the circuit to the coil.  I didn't check but I'd be surprised if there aren't previous OGR threads on this topic with specific component recommendations for FasTrack uncouplers.  A PTC fuse is maybe 50 cents in small quantity.  Basically it "trips" like a fuse after, say, 5 seconds of coil activation.  It self-resets after the "fault" clears to live another day so there's nothing to replace.

It would require some basic soldering but nothing complicated.  Following shows the concept albeit obviously not FasTrack.

ptc resettable fuse

Attachments

Images (1)
  • ptc resettable fuse

Indeed there are other threads about this, including some suggested part numbers:  PTC and TVS... (full title in my sig line below).

Here's the entry for a Fastrack PTC:  'PTC resettable Fuse - 0.5A hold, 1A trip for Fastrack Uncoupler tracks drawing about 1.8A - Digi-Key: MF-R050-ND (other brands of un-coupler tracks may have similar requirements?) (Info - PLCPROF; Part #'s - NVOCC5, PLCPROF, GRJ)'

Last edited by rtr12

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×