Fasttrack Switch

A track diagram with a picture/indication of the trouble spot would be helpful, and, which model ZW?

It's a 250W 60V ZW with 4 connectors (circa 1948, refurbished)

It doesn't look like you have separate power for each oval.

Is your diagram accurate - only two wires from the ZW?  Regardless, which posts are you using to power each section of track?

Make sure that the "U" terminal is connected to the outside rail on both loops.

Is the switch powered off the track or directly off the ZW?

everything is powered off the track, but I have two pieces of track that are powered. I thought that by putting power in two places I could run two trains off the whole set up. 

Maybe that's my issue -- too much/too little power? I'll get a photo of the layout.

How did you choose to power the siding?  Which two trains are you running?

Here's a better view:
Seems ok here: 

https://youtu.be/PB1k-UZMLbc

But then when throwing the switch and going in reverse it just stops:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdR21MuuYis

Now it looks like you have 4 wires connected to the layout. Which ZW posts are those 4 wires connected to?

The ones near the end bumper are on post a and the one near the zw are on post D 

red on center rail and post a/d , black on outside rail and the "common" post above A and D.

You have a short circuit from A to D that bypasses the circuit breaker(it will never trip).

Connect the reds to D, the blacks to U(they are all the same - all connected inside the housing/case).

Now I have to play dumb newbie- should I just have one piece of track powered for the whole circuit or have a second piece powered but have both wires connected to the same posts?

im just nervous with the electricity and the 70 yr old transformer

As the layout grows larger, you will want/need several attachments to the track, all connected to the same two posts on the ZW, to prevent power drop-outs due to track joints / resistance.

The next step, when you are ready, is to break the layout into power districts - and insulate the inner loop from the outer loop, connecting one to A-U & the other to D-U , for independent running of two trains on both loops.

Thank you. I will give it a shot tomorrow!

I would also take a look at the straight extension piece coming out of the switch you are having trouble with.  There should be a small jumper under that short piece of track.  Since you are not using blocks, that jumper should be installed.  It acts like your locomotive/tender is being used to connect the siding and the switch center rails.

I couldn't wait and tested it out. So one engine is now perfect (thank you!) but when I put on my convention Boston & Maine lionchief A&B engines, the B engine sparked nasty and then derailed...

https://youtu.be/-5ZGDvv4AoA

Again, any advice is greatly appreciated.

I didn't know there was a jumper on the short straight piece. I mean I know there's a jumper if you want to power the switch through aux power, but I didn't know if there was another one...or is it the 5" straight we're talking about? Is it ok to put two switches back to back or do you need to have something between them to keep the power ok?

IcedCorn posted:

https://youtu.be/-5ZGDvv4AoA

How did you power-down the siding with the steam engine?

I don't think I did power it down. How would I do that? I mean the train was "off" through the remote, but the track was still powered (I think the bumper light was still on). 

If you are running TMCC/LCS/Lionchief/Lionchief+ only, the entire layout, especially one of this size, can be all one power district running off just one handle(A, B, C, or D) of the ZW(250) which will deliver 190-200 watts total to the layout. Just be sure, and check all of the track connections(and I would make three or four total) have "U" to the outside rails all the way around regardless of the color of the wires(they sometimes get switched around under the track).

Once you have confirmed this, and you still have problems at the switch, there are additional steps to take.

IcedCorn,

   Lets back up and slow down just a might, 1st Rob gave you a most important piece of advise, make sure your red wire is running off the D Terminal of your ZW and that it only runs to the mid rail on your FasTrack at every track connection.  Make sure your FT Switches are connected up correctly.  3rd you now say you have a remote, what kind train and remote control are you using?  I thought this was a non RC layout.

PCRR/Dave

so i should be running wire from multiple places on the track from the outside rails to one U post? I didn't realize I needed so many connections for that. I thought I just needed one or maybe two. 

Is the shock on the switch coming from not enough power, or do I have something else screwed up? 

And yes, right now all I am running are modern LCS or Lionchief trains.

I do have some older ones from my dad but saving those for special occasions.

Thanks so much to everyone for bearing with me. I really want to enjoy the hobby with my son, but I feel like I'm causing more problems!

ICECORN,

   If you have shorting going on you still have something connected wrong, Check every wire you have connected to your FasTrack and make sure all the D Red lines are connected only to the Mid Rail, and that all U Black wires are running to the same outside rail. With FasTrack it's easy to switch red & black wires under the track, and not know you did it.  You are learning not causing problems we will help you as your learn.

PCRR/Dave

Ok. I have a red wire running from the center rail at two track locations on straight track to the post (ie one center wire to post D and then another center wire on another piece of track to post D). Is that correct - or do I need to connect more wires to other pieces of track to the same posts?

I have two remote controlled O72 switches connected back to back. 

Right now I have the Boston & Maine Lionchief+ A/B engines running on the track along with a legacy steam engine (unpainted) that I bought at the Boston convention with tender car. Of course I have more cars I'd like to attach but I'm just trying to get these to run.

ICED,

     1st take all the engines off the tracks except your B&M Lion Chief+, make sure you have good batteries in you LC+ Remote Control.  2 wire drops from the D & U should be more than good for your small layout, you will eventually need some 6 Amp resettable breakers on the red line between your track and your ZW Transformer.  Next make sure your 072 switches both work correctly, with you FT Switch Controllers.  If they do set your ZW handle to about 16.5, turn your LC+ remote on, and try running your engine, via your remote control.  Do not go fast enough to derail the engine on your test run.  

PCRR/Dave

I didn't have time to get back to this over the last week - job got in the way. LOL. Just one other question. Can you give me a part number for those 6 amp resettable breakers? Thanks.

ok, long time no post but I finally had time to spend. I confirmed that the center rail is connected to the "D" connector on my transformer and the U has the outside rail.

So now, I only have the Lionchief plus engine on my track and I tried running it. This time not only did it spark but smoke came out and I had to kill the power. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and I'm frustrated. I have tried to buy a new switch just thinking maybe the switch was bad, but the new one sparks. It's ALWAYS in the same spot on the track.

Any other ideas or thoughts?

Video here: https://youtu.be/iF8WahIEByU

in the video when you backed up the caboose derailed so start with making sure everything is gauge correct.  when the engine passed over the first time I only saw the last engine spark and that could be a pickup roller misaligned.

below is something to think about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt9zSfinwFA