Firebox or no? 1935 265e Silver Streak Cab replacement?

My grandfather's 265E was dated on this forum when I had to replace the cab. No firebox mold in the old one, none it the new one.

Just one piece of advice: Test fit the cab before painting. We had to file ours to make it fit.

If you want the set to be correct, you need the flat walled cab. Check your 265E out. If it is a 1935 version, it should have the thicker nickel rims on the drivers, and there should be no weight riveted inside the steam chest, and most likely will not have a nickel headlight ring.

Later versions had weighted steam chests, fire box backheads on the cab, thin rimmed drivers, and nickel headlight rings.

These are some basic identifiers. The only difference I have seen is that some 1935's  had headlight rings, but still had the other characteristics of the flat cab wall, thick rimmed drivers and no weight in the steam chest.

The tender should be a 261TX, which is basically a 261T that had draw bars on both ends. They are seldom numbered on the bottom.

The 1935 264E red comets and 265E's are not great at pulling because they lack the traction due to being light. So, make sure all your consist, engine, tender, and cars are properly lubricated with a synthetic oil of some sort.

Thanks, it's nice to talk about prewar tinplate once in a while.

   JSRFO, it is nice to talk about prewar! 

   I second the info above, and test fit the cab. They never fit right!

Thank you all for the great information. Since I already have the primed plain cab model mounted on the boiler tabs, it should be very simple to finish sand and spray paint the cab. I know I need to let the paint cure for a couple days before reinstalling the cab . I think either Ace or Rustoleum have a suitable satin black paint. Are those good choices for this project? I bought a cheap air bruish on Ebay but I have never used it and don't want to try a learn another new skill while I am trying to get the current project right.

Glenn K

For the cost of a couple cans of different black paints, I'd buy a couple and try them out on test panels to see if they match.

I don't think that you need an air brush for this. That's a better choice for mixing colors or if you buy paint that does not come canned, and actually, any reputable automotive paint specialty store can color match, and make you a rattle can for under $20.

But for black, try a couple different semi flat blacks. I have used a Rustoleum  "American Accents" Canyon Black semi flat black, and it works quite well as a match to the original Lionel black. But, all the blacks can have some variance in color and gloss. For example, I find Krylon semi flat black to be a little too grey for this job.

Also, this may sound strange, but after the paint is dried, if the gloss is a little too much, you can use talc on a soft cloth, and lightly buff or rub the piece a little, then wash all the talc off. It takes a bit of the gloss down. Sounds strange but it works well. Just don't rub hard, but more like lightly buff the cab, even use a tooth brush to get into the details so they don't remain shiny.