Kits - Ameri-towne, Downtown Deco

Well I am working on a Korber  Models kit my self Kit # 966 Just take your Time. Its been almost 3 weeks since I started due to the fact that I pulled my back out on Tuesday  and it feels almost good today. So all I've done in the past week is I repainted the windows today. Again take it slowly

Busted up in shipping by mail? Did that come new from OGR? I've been thinking of ordering some Ameri-Towne items ...

Jacobpaul81,

I see 2 problems that are causing the seams to stick out. It appears that the edges are not flush with the connecting walls and the weathering on the walls is not consistent with the edges. 

Jacob:

It's a good start. 

WRT OGR - 

I always sand or trim the side walls to make sure they are as flat as possible. Just make sure the mold sprue residual is removed. Sometimes the front and back walls will have a slight bow. This is normal and can be compensated for during blue up. Just use as many clamps as you can - minium one top, one bottom, one center. I usually add two more clamps just to be sure.

To help insure a flat perpendicular joint I also use 1/4 inch sq styrene in all corner joints to increase glue surface. 

WRT Downtown Deco - 

If you bought directly from Downtown Deco / retailer you should ask for replacement walls. Some breakage is expected with hydrocal walls but what you have is somewhat excessive. Downtown Deco usually does a great job packing for shipment. If you bought from a private party then that may explain the breakage. Perhaps you can purchase replacement walls from Downtown Deco.

I have attached a set of instructions I send to customers who purchase kits and ask for assembly hints. Hopefully this will be some help to you.

Good luck

Joe

Jacob

I agree with Joe, I came up with an interesting fix to some walls, when I was building scale ships I used a Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty  and used it on the joints. This worked great for me. 

Is that back wall of the DTD kit already glued to the other walls?  If not, I would contact Randy at DTD and see if he has any back wall castings lying around.  

If its already glued in place, I think ur best option is to hide everything on that wall with a big billboard sign.  Or, just back that wall up to where it can't be seen

Did u prime the casting first?  The Dtd castings really need to be primed first with a light coat of spray or even a light dyed alcohol wash of a light color.  Easiest is to use white flat primer.

Randy has good directions for building his kits on his website.  They are updated. The directions that came with that bus terminal are probably a bit dated

On the ameritowne bldg, u could fill in the seams as best as u can,  sand the filler, then hit the whole building with a spray bomb of brick color, and maybe a spray of gray on the front facade.  

Ive had the best luck using a white alcohol wash for the mortar lines on ameritowne kits

Those first three photos look good, just like the buildings in the ghost town of Rhyolite on the edge of Death Valley.  I use two part epoxy to repair broken hydrocal, and then fill cracks with model putty and sand.  But that looks like you are missing parts to reglue, so, I'd fabricate them, since I'm too impatient to want to hassle getting replacements, but you can try for that from the mfr. That "tile" wall, I'd just epoxy.

I like to repair plaster walls by brushing the tiniest amount of wood glue in the seam.  Align the parts, then brace the back with a 1/4" square stock coated with 2 part epoxy.  If the crack is super clean, I will nix the wood glue, and just use the brace with the epoxy on the back of the casting.  Whatever you do, try not to get glue on the face of the casting.  Also do not get too much glue in the seam, it creates a space between the broken parts.

jcovert posted:

I like to repair plaster walls by brushing the tiniest amount of wood glue in the seam.  Align the parts, then brace the back with a 1/4" square stock coated with 2 part epoxy.  If the crack is super clean, I will nix the wood glue, and just use the brace with the epoxy on the back of the casting.  Whatever you do, try not to get glue on the face of the casting.  Also do not get too much glue in the seam, it creates a space between the broken parts.

 

 

I used 2-part epoxy to seam them, - they look to have gone together mostly smoothly - the brick was no big  deal as it's brick - and the step and square panels went together cleanly - however the face of the depot was unfortunate as the smooth part right above the door will have a slight crack I'll have to paint as such.  I've taken the depot gray - although white is what i remember on our local depot, it looked to USPS to me.

Model Structures posted:

Jacob:

It's a good start. 

WRT OGR - 

I always sand or trim the side walls to make sure they are as flat as possible. Just make sure the mold sprue residual is removed. Sometimes the front and back walls will have a slight bow. This is normal and can be compensated for during blue up. Just use as many clamps as you can - minium one top, one bottom, one center. I usually add two more clamps just to be sure.

To help insure a flat perpendicular joint I also use 1/4 inch sq styrene in all corner joints to increase glue surface. 

Joe

Hey Joe,

Yea, I cleaned up the flash and sanded (in fact I even sanded the front to rough up the plastic). I added morter to the face with ultralight joint compound and then black washed 4-5 times.  Then I assembled - I think this was probably my mistake - should have assembled first and get it as snug as possible before making it filthy.  

I was able to fill the gaps with joint compound and black wash that to match - I'm painting Windows and doors.  I'll post a photo later today.

Jacob:

Outstanding job! the paint looks like it is peeling off the windows and doors. If you don't already have them invest in some weathering powders. I find them invaluable even after an india ink wash.

Also if you get a chance try Robert's Brick Mortar. I use this first then go light weight spackle for any touch up work.

Joe

To All:

I have never tried this on hydrocal cracks but have used this method for other jobs. To fill thin gaps and cracks on plastic walls I sometimes apply a superglue (thinnest liquid possible) then apply baking soda to the glue. the baking soda cures the glue instantly and forms a good joint compound that can be sanded out.

Large holes divots etc I use Squadron White Putty.

Joe

Well six rounds later (that is six tries at figuring out the base color), I went to base color number 1 and the original plan of making the Deco Bus stop concrete.  One crack is still pretty visible but it'll be hid under advertising.

Nice job Jacob

Thanks!  I shouldn't have strayed from my instincts and stuck with my original approach.   Now I just need to figure out the powder weathering techniques. 

Jacob:

I learned by just starting to apply and see what happens. Start off real light. You can always add more. I have black powder for soot, various shades of rust and a gray powder that unfortunately is not available any more that I use for general dulling of the paint.

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.

B&O/best&only posted:

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.

My modeling period is around 1969-70 - Topeka, KS and the west bottoms in  Kansas City are my inspiration - so gritty is key. I tried pulling off the aged Deco look - but I just wasn't happy - apart from a few concrete buildings here or there (mostly state buildings or skyscrapers)  those cities tend towards pre-ww or post-wwii mcm architecture.

Been side-tracked but had some time to work on the Deco kit. Just need to add the sign details.. If it weren't for that one crack, it'd all blend together well...

Jacob:

The crack is in a smooth area. Rub in some Squadron putty (use the white putty) and sand smooth. The crack will virtually disappear.

Joe

Model Structures posted:

Jacob:

The crack is in a smooth area. Rub in some Squadron putty (use the white putty) and sand smooth. The crack will virtually disappear.

Joe

I'll pick some up tomorrow and give that a shot.

Still need to get putty. Started adding signs last night...

Jacob

What a very nice job. 

Jacob,

I think the depot looks fantastic.  Thanks for sharing the progress.   

Ed

I think I'd leave the crack as is. Adds to the effect.

Thanks everyone for all the encouragement!  I've really enjoyed this project - so much so, I've ordered three more kits from Downtown Deco.  

3 more kits.  That is great as I hope you'll post some progress photos as you build them.

As a guy who must have been out  to lunch when God was handing out creative genes is to great to be able to see the work of other folks who actually have the skills.  

Ed

Ed Walsh posted:

3 more kits.  That is great as I hope you'll post some progress photos as you build them.

As a guy who must have been out  to lunch when God was handing out creative genes is to great to be able to see the work of other folks who actually have the skills.  

Ed

Will do Ed.  I've ordered Patterson's Hardware, Luci's Tattoo, and the Trackside Tavern.  Randy's customer service was excellent. 

Got some putty today and fixed up the Depot. I think it turned out pretty solid.

Started playing around with one of my new arrivals - Downtown Deco Trackside Tavern.  I really like Norm's work with these kits - so I borrowed his base approach of blasting with rust-oleum red primer.  I wanted to try to blend in a little more color to the brick - and will vary brick color from building to building on my layout to get a bit more realistic look . 

Bricks have a number of different colors in them. After primer, I used paper towels and applied Rust-oleum Camo brown, Rust-Oleum Camo Black, and my new favorite Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut.  I then used basic white acrylic for morter - brushed on with a sponge brush and quickly wiped away.  I then washed the whole thing with a Burnt Umber wash - also wiped away.  I then applied Folk Art Asphaltum which really makes the bricks POP.  2-3 more Burnt Umber washes and a little more smudge work with the Dark Walnut.  

The Stone work and Concrete are Camo Brown, Covered with Camo Tan.   Stones were coated with white which i wiped most off with anpaper towel. Did this a few times which turned them a grey-tan mix.  I then painted black on the stones - wiping away with a paper towel - which was what I just completed at time of photos. That's what created the definition between Stones.

 The Concrete received several coats of the Burnt Umber wash, followed by rubbing with a paper towel coated in Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut spray. I rubbed a bit of white on the concrete wall - not sure I like that. 

I painted before assembly as i did with the previous two kits.  I'll have to clean up the seems.  I like the general look so far.

Jacobpaul81 posted:

Got some putty today and fixed up the Depot. I think it turned out pretty solid.

Jacob:

Excellent!

Joe

Nice jobs on those kits. Downtown Deco kits are great fun and take weathering beautifully. For any noticeable seams, I usually apply some lightweight spackle with my fingers in the seams and it all blends in as I do that before painting any DD kit. One suggestion on any seams that you don't like, regardless of material (i.e. hydrocal, resin, wood, etc.) is to run a small styrene tube covering the seam which simulates a downward roof drain. You could also use a wire and bend it at the bottom the way drains usually look. You can also add some vines up the seams which will cover them as much as you'd like. 

Little more progress...

Jerrman posted:

Nice jobs on those kits. Downtown Deco kits are great fun and take weathering beautifully. For any noticeable seams, I usually apply some lightweight spackle with my fingers in the seams and it all blends in as I do that before painting any DD kit. One suggestion on any seams that you don't like, regardless of material (i.e. hydrocal, resin, wood, etc.) is to run a small styrene tube covering the seam which simulates a downward roof drain. You could also use a wire and bend it at the bottom the way drains usually look. You can also add some vines up the seams which will cover them as much as you'd like. 

A great thing to use for the downspouts is Plastruct TB-1 or -2 colored tubing. They come as plastic coated wire so they can be bent without kinking and hold their shape and there is no need to paint. I buy in colors green and black.

@B&O/best&only posted:

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.

What kit is this or what kits were used to kit bash this?

DJ

The kit is a "RITZ KITZ", Town Grill, O Scale Kit #2150. It came from "Supply Line, P.O. Box 28047, Baltimore, MD 21239". This building was constructed by me over 10 years ago, so I have no idea if they are still in business.

Paul

Paul, they only made two kits and went out of business. I have the same one (Star Grill) and wish they had made more kits. I have an article about building and painting kits in the next issue of OGR. Don