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Working on my first kits -  having decent luck with the Ameri-towne kit - though seems are a bit to prominent.

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 The Downtown Deco kit was pretty roughed up in shipping.  I've got it all fixed but...

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I'm really struggling with the Deco look...

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I tried hand painting blue and it looked garbage - so I sprayed the one side - worried it looks to USPS to me.

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Last edited by Jacobpaul81
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Well I am working on a Korber  Models kit my self Kit # 966 Just take your Time. Its been almost 3 weeks since I started due to the fact that I pulled my back out on Tuesday  and it feels almost good today. So all I've done in the past week is I repainted the windows today. Again take it slowly DSC_0002DSC_0004DSC_0005

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Jacob:

It's a good start. 

WRT OGR - 

I always sand or trim the side walls to make sure they are as flat as possible. Just make sure the mold sprue residual is removed. Sometimes the front and back walls will have a slight bow. This is normal and can be compensated for during blue up. Just use as many clamps as you can - minium one top, one bottom, one center. I usually add two more clamps just to be sure.

To help insure a flat perpendicular joint I also use 1/4 inch sq styrene in all corner joints to increase glue surface. 

WRT Downtown Deco - 

If you bought directly from Downtown Deco / retailer you should ask for replacement walls. Some breakage is expected with hydrocal walls but what you have is somewhat excessive. Downtown Deco usually does a great job packing for shipment. If you bought from a private party then that may explain the breakage. Perhaps you can purchase replacement walls from Downtown Deco.

I have attached a set of instructions I send to customers who purchase kits and ask for assembly hints. Hopefully this will be some help to you.

Good luck

Joe

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Is that back wall of the DTD kit already glued to the other walls?  If not, I would contact Randy at DTD and see if he has any back wall castings lying around.  

If its already glued in place, I think ur best option is to hide everything on that wall with a big billboard sign.  Or, just back that wall up to where it can't be seen

Did u prime the casting first?  The Dtd castings really need to be primed first with a light coat of spray or even a light dyed alcohol wash of a light color.  Easiest is to use white flat primer.

Randy has good directions for building his kits on his website.  They are updated. The directions that came with that bus terminal are probably a bit dated

Those first three photos look good, just like the buildings in the ghost town of Rhyolite on the edge of Death Valley.  I use two part epoxy to repair broken hydrocal, and then fill cracks with model putty and sand.  But that looks like you are missing parts to reglue, so, I'd fabricate them, since I'm too impatient to want to hassle getting replacements, but you can try for that from the mfr. That "tile" wall, I'd just epoxy.

I like to repair plaster walls by brushing the tiniest amount of wood glue in the seam.  Align the parts, then brace the back with a 1/4" square stock coated with 2 part epoxy.  If the crack is super clean, I will nix the wood glue, and just use the brace with the epoxy on the back of the casting.  Whatever you do, try not to get glue on the face of the casting.  Also do not get too much glue in the seam, it creates a space between the broken parts.

 

 

jcovert posted:

I like to repair plaster walls by brushing the tiniest amount of wood glue in the seam.  Align the parts, then brace the back with a 1/4" square stock coated with 2 part epoxy.  If the crack is super clean, I will nix the wood glue, and just use the brace with the epoxy on the back of the casting.  Whatever you do, try not to get glue on the face of the casting.  Also do not get too much glue in the seam, it creates a space between the broken parts.

 

 

I used 2-part epoxy to seam them, - they look to have gone together mostly smoothly - the brick was no big  deal as it's brick - and the step and square panels went together cleanly - however the face of the depot was unfortunate as the smooth part right above the door will have a slight crack I'll have to paint as such.  I've taken the depot gray - although white is what i remember on our local depot, it looked to USPS to me.

Model Structures posted:

Jacob:

It's a good start. 

WRT OGR - 

I always sand or trim the side walls to make sure they are as flat as possible. Just make sure the mold sprue residual is removed. Sometimes the front and back walls will have a slight bow. This is normal and can be compensated for during blue up. Just use as many clamps as you can - minium one top, one bottom, one center. I usually add two more clamps just to be sure.

To help insure a flat perpendicular joint I also use 1/4 inch sq styrene in all corner joints to increase glue surface. 

Joe

Hey Joe,

Yea, I cleaned up the flash and sanded (in fact I even sanded the front to rough up the plastic). I added morter to the face with ultralight joint compound and then black washed 4-5 times.  Then I assembled - I think this was probably my mistake - should have assembled first and get it as snug as possible before making it filthy.  

I was able to fill the gaps with joint compound and black wash that to match - I'm painting Windows and doors.  I'll post a photo later today.

Last edited by Jacobpaul81

Jacob:

Outstanding job! the paint looks like it is peeling off the windows and doors. If you don't already have them invest in some weathering powders. I find them invaluable even after an india ink wash.

Also if you get a chance try Robert's Brick Mortar. I use this first then go light weight spackle for any touch up work.

Joe

To All:

I have never tried this on hydrocal cracks but have used this method for other jobs. To fill thin gaps and cracks on plastic walls I sometimes apply a superglue (thinnest liquid possible) then apply baking soda to the glue. the baking soda cures the glue instantly and forms a good joint compound that can be sanded out.

Large holes divots etc I use Squadron White Putty.

Joe

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.LL Grill 1

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B&O/best&only posted:

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.LL Grill 1

My modeling period is around 1969-70 - Topeka, KS and the west bottoms in  Kansas City are my inspiration - so gritty is key. I tried pulling off the aged Deco look - but I just wasn't happy - apart from a few concrete buildings here or there (mostly state buildings or skyscrapers)  those cities tend towards pre-ww or post-wwii mcm architecture.

Last edited by Jacobpaul81
Ed Walsh posted:

3 more kits.  That is great as I hope you'll post some progress photos as you build them.

As a guy who must have been out  to lunch when God was handing out creative genes is to great to be able to see the work of other folks who actually have the skills.  

Ed

Will do Ed.  I've ordered Patterson's Hardware, Luci's Tattoo, and the Trackside Tavern.  Randy's customer service was excellent. 

Started playing around with one of my new arrivals - Downtown Deco Trackside Tavern.  I really like Norm's work with these kits - so I borrowed his base approach of blasting with rust-oleum red primer.  I wanted to try to blend in a little more color to the brick - and will vary brick color from building to building on my layout to get a bit more realistic look . 

Bricks have a number of different colors in them. After primer, I used paper towels and applied Rust-oleum Camo brown, Rust-Oleum Camo Black, and my new favorite Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut.  I then used basic white acrylic for morter - brushed on with a sponge brush and quickly wiped away.  I then washed the whole thing with a Burnt Umber wash - also wiped away.  I then applied Folk Art Asphaltum which really makes the bricks POP.  2-3 more Burnt Umber washes and a little more smudge work with the Dark Walnut.  

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The Stone work and Concrete are Camo Brown, Covered with Camo Tan.   Stones were coated with white which i wiped most off with anpaper towel. Did this a few times which turned them a grey-tan mix.  I then painted black on the stones - wiping away with a paper towel - which was what I just completed at time of photos. That's what created the definition between Stones.

 The Concrete received several coats of the Burnt Umber wash, followed by rubbing with a paper towel coated in Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut spray. I rubbed a bit of white on the concrete wall - not sure I like that. 

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I painted before assembly as i did with the previous two kits.  I'll have to clean up the seems.  I like the general look so far.

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Last edited by Jacobpaul81

Nice jobs on those kits. Downtown Deco kits are great fun and take weathering beautifully. For any noticeable seams, I usually apply some lightweight spackle with my fingers in the seams and it all blends in as I do that before painting any DD kit. One suggestion on any seams that you don't like, regardless of material (i.e. hydrocal, resin, wood, etc.) is to run a small styrene tube covering the seam which simulates a downward roof drain. You could also use a wire and bend it at the bottom the way drains usually look. You can also add some vines up the seams which will cover them as much as you'd like. 

Jerrman posted:

Nice jobs on those kits. Downtown Deco kits are great fun and take weathering beautifully. For any noticeable seams, I usually apply some lightweight spackle with my fingers in the seams and it all blends in as I do that before painting any DD kit. One suggestion on any seams that you don't like, regardless of material (i.e. hydrocal, resin, wood, etc.) is to run a small styrene tube covering the seam which simulates a downward roof drain. You could also use a wire and bend it at the bottom the way drains usually look. You can also add some vines up the seams which will cover them as much as you'd like. 

A great thing to use for the downspouts is Plastruct TB-1 or -2 colored tubing. They come as plastic coated wire so they can be bent without kinking and hold their shape and there is no need to paint. I buy in colors green and black.

JacobPaul81,

For a more "Deco" look, I'd return to the White porcelain effect of the tiles on the face of your bus depot. I further believe that a lighter color for trim (light blue, yellow) would enhance the effect unless you are after a gritty, urban, past its prime business. Although not a bus depot, like yourself I was after a '30s Art Deco look for my restaurant. I spray painted the "tiles" high gloss white and brush painted the brick surfaces yellow.

As someone previously recommended, Squadron White Putty is very useful for filling cracks, fissures, porous casting holes and similar casting flaws and construction errors.LL Grill 1

What kit is this or what kits were used to kit bash this?

 

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