Skip to main content

Hi all,

Well last night while watching my K-Line Nickel Plate Road caboose get towed around the layout by the Berkshire, with the caboose lighting flickering as though the conductor inside was having a romantic candlelit dinner, I decided enough is enough.  I have a few of these beautiful K-Line cabooses in various road names, and all of them flicker no matter how clean the track and pickup rollers are.  None of my other brands of cabooses do this as bad.  And as I like to run my trains often in the dark, the flickering lighting becomes extremely apparent.

Has anyone successfully converted one of these K-Lines to capacitor-backed LED lighting?  Looking for suggestions from the electrical gurus out there as to capacitor size and LED type that should work well in this scenario.

Should make for another fun project to keep busy with over the winter months ahead!  If I go ahead with this, I'll be sure to post about it.

Cheers,

Woody

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_2671
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

" I have upgraded a bunch of passenger cars and a couple cabooses to LEDs with capacitors. I use warm white LED strips, a bridge rectifier, a 480ohm resistor, and a 1000uf capacitor."

For those of us who don't know a bus stop from a bus strip - what is the purpose of the three components:


Bridge Rectifier

480 ohm resistor

1000uf capacitor

Thank you. My application is upgrading several sets of passenger cars (Lionel / MTH / K-Line / Weaver) to LEDS  running DCS / TMCC .

Also - you are using "warm white". Some of the pictures i have seen show a bluish hue that I thought looked nice. May I assume the LED strips come in whatever "warmth" you want for light? I see in the second pic everything but the resistor - where does that go?

I appreciate the input.

Paul

I have upgraded a bunch of passenger cars and a couple cabooses to LEDs with capacitors. I use warm white LED strips, a bridge rectifier, a 480ohm resistor, and a 1000uf capacitor. Here are some pics of the cars. Second picture is the capacitor and rectifier setup I use.

Where do you suggest I shop to get these items?  I really like how your cars have turned out!

And btw I'm an engineer, but not an electrical engineer, so I learned the basics of all this stuff but I'm no expert by any means, hence why I'm looking for suggestions!

@Railrunnin posted:

" I have upgraded a bunch of passenger cars and a couple cabooses to LEDs with capacitors. I use warm white LED strips, a bridge rectifier, a 480ohm resistor, and a 1000uf capacitor."

For those of us who don't know a bus stop from a bus strip - what is the purpose of the three components:


Bridge Rectifier Converts AC current to DC current required by LED lights.

480 ohm resistor  Restricts the amount of current the LED lights receive.  Too much current will cause the LEDs to stop working..

1000uf capacitor The capacitor stores energy that keeps the LED lights “ON” whenever momentary losses of supply current occurs.

Thank you. My application is upgrading several sets of passenger cars (Lionel / MTH / K-Line / Weaver) to LEDS  running DCS / TMCC .

Also - you are using "warm white". Some of the pictures i have seen show a bluish hue that I thought looked nice. May I assume the LED strips come in whatever "warmth" you want for light? I see in the second pic everything but the resistor - where does that go?

I appreciate the input.

Paul

There are several threads here on the forum regarding converting to LED lighting.

Last edited by GregM
@RickO posted:

Have you tried a conductive oil such as Bachmann EZ Lube on the pickup roller pins?

I have lubed the rollers with very light oil to ensure they roll freely as at least MTH suggests to do, although I've never tried this product.  May give it a go!  Although it would have to be a night-and-day improvement to fix these K Line cabooses.

I feel like with these K Line cars part of the problem is that the pickup rollers are made of a different metal compared to most rollers I've seen as well as the fact that the springs don't press as hard down upon the rails.  Also, the juice-thirsty incandescent lights don't help matters.

I use my LED lighting modules.  DCS compatible, no flicker, adjustable intensity, and compact construction.

If you are a "roll your own" guy, there is some information on making your own thru-hole boards with the same capabilities, just slightly larger.

Open up this thread: ELECTRICAL REFERENCE MATERIALS & MANUALS

Search for this text: DIY Constant Current Passenger Car Lighting Module

The cost for these DIY modules should be around $3/ea total, less if you order parts from overseas.  The PCB's can be ordered from OSH Park, but you can also order in bulk from off-shore board houses in quantity for considerably less per board.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×