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Hello all.

My O scale plans are limited, as I mostly play with Gauge One live steam.  I am hoping that what is a mystery to me will be old hat to some here.

I have a number of old O gauge, mostly wind ups -- Marx, Hafner, Ives, Hornby, AF, Schylling. Also some AF box cabs, but they need repair. I have been running on a circle of O72 Fastrack on the floor. This is getting old, and so am I (turning 65 and retiring this year).

My thought is to cut a six foot circle of 1/2 inch plywood, hinge the halves to fold, and have something to run on at local train shows, grandkids' schools, etc. Set on sawhorses.  I want to run a circle of O60 inside the O72 and connect them with the 22.5 degree crossover. Scenery limited to green paint, a few tin buildings, maybe crossing gates. Track placed for the occasion, not fixed. (I keep it in 1/4 circles for quicker installation.)

it seems that there ought to be a straightforward way to do this, but I don't have a resource to sort out the precise pieces to make it work. So, is there a doctor in the house? Or someone with a clue?

i CAN figure out two concentric circles, and might run that way sometimes (one electric, one clockwork). But that folded figure 8 keeps coming to mind, so I want that option too. I can just that Marx M10000 swaying inside and outside, the Scylling Rail Zeppelins . . . 

Thanks in advance, Mike in Tallahassee

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Hi Mike,

I'll make it up for you - but the O72  needs a 74"-76" circle. The 72" diameter is the center rail . 76" would leave a little edge.

Since you have it on the floor, measure the outside edge of roadbed to roadbed.

problem #2 - the 22.5° crossover will really elongate the display. A 45° or 90° will keep it tighter

Last edited by Moonman

Ok, here's what I have the table would be 76"W x 160"L in 4 sections of 38"W x 80"L. I have toggled the roadbed on for the track which is very close to showing the roadbed width.

You remove the yellow pieces in the center. When assembling, butt the two sides together and make a half. Then make the other half. Then connect in the center with the yellow pieces.

What do think? Is this close?

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  • Mike_in_Tallahassee

Hi all and thanks.

i failed to express myself clearly. My bad.

what I want to have is a circular layout, which runs around the outside, crosses over to the inside, takes a lap around the inside, and returns to the outside. All one piece. I am guessing that the outside will require 17 sections of 072, while the inside will require 15 sections of O60, along with the 22.5 crossover and some number of straight pieces.

the point is to get a longer run that is not merely a racetrack. Not much more, but this is aimed at elementary school kids. The mention of two concentric circles was a needless source of confusion -- an alternative layout to let me run two trains at once. (A good windup only runs about 30 seconds.) But my question is about the O60 circle inside the O72 circle, joined by the crossover.

The overall layout will be somewhat over 72 inches in diameter, adding both the track center to edge distances and the straights used to balance the crossover and the extra O72 section. I did something similar with 4 foot diameter gauge one (Aristocraft) years ago, so I think the angles balance out, but am not sure what straights to use and where. And I don't have the odd track sections in Fastrack that I could play with in other scales.

and yes, I will cut the plywood to fit after I have successfully assembled and run the track. 

Many years ago, I played with HO sectional and flextrack and had all the Atlas and Kalmbach track plans. For the last several decades, it's been mostly gauge one. In O, I am still a rookie.  So, if I have explained myself better, I still need help. (Mental, moral, financial, psychiatric, cosmetic, etc.) 

thanks in advance, Mike

Hi Mike,

Is this more what you had in mind?

you'd still need 2 of the 1/4 O36 pieces to make up the difference because Lionel doesn't offer 1/2 or 1/4 curves in O60. plus you'd need 2 of the 1/2 curves in the O72. otherwise it would not be symmetric.

I could play around with this to see if there is a layout which would meet your existing tracks without needing to purchase additional pieces.

Patrick

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Patrick,

Does the length of the 22.5° crossing that you are using include the 1 3/8" half-roadbed pieces? 17" x 17"

6-12050_22.5_crossing

Not sure about putting the O36 in there. A little "snappy".

I use the second of your offerings for an around the tree layout, I call it "twice around". I like the 22.5° crossing as it flattens the area and shows the train.

The twice around is most likely as small as you will get it, Mike.

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  • 6-12050_22.5_crossing

Hi Carl,

Yes - the half-bed road pieces are included - to make the crossing lengths 17" and 17", otherwise no other Fastrack pieces would fit.

The 1/4 O36 curve solved the problem of not needing to cut existing track. The only other FT 11.25-degree curves produced are the O31 (not desirable) and the O72 and O96. I haven't tried drawing these yet, but I imagine there would be some lengths of straight track at the top (opposite) of the crossing.

Patrick

Okay, even though I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night, I ain't smart enough to figure out how to post a picture yet.  I will have to work on that.

In the meantime, I drew up a pair of circles with a crossover (using SCARM) that's about as concentric and as circular as you can get, considering what Lionel Fastrack gives us to work with.  I'll see if I can describe it..................

For the INSIDE circle, start with a 15° crossover, then run 060 x 22.5° curved sections all the way around EXCEPT at the opposite side of the circle (180° from the X-over).  Use one piece of 072 x 22.5° curved section here.  ALMOST a perfect match for a complete circle.

Now, for the OUTSIDE circle - connect ONE piece of 036 x 45° curved Fastrack to EACH END of the 15° crossover (2 pieces of 036 curved track total).  Then run 072 x 22.5° curved sections all the way around, plus ADD one piece of 1.375" straight track on the opposite side of the circle from the crossover.  Not totally perfect, but pretty darned close.  With all the pieces of track on the outer circle, there shouldn't be any problem fudging each one a tiny bit to get everything to fit.

Hopefully, this will get you what you want.

Patrick, Carl,

You are really gentlemen, kind to strangers and giving of yourselves. Yes, one of these will do. I will print out and go from there.

next question. I understand the need to cut sections to get what is not otherwise available. This will be a put up/take down portable, where the track will not be permanently fixed. I know how to snap connectors together but how best to join the newly cut edges? Is there a glue or solvent that will weld Fastrack roadbed? Or other suggestions?

many thanks, Mike

Mike,

In both track plans, there are two pieces and the crossing that fall on the seam of the two pieces. Those pieces can be inserted and the layout halves pushed together when set up.

I revised the last rendition (version 3) that I offered to not use custom cut pieces of track (with a minimum curve of O60) and Patrick's versions use whole tracks also.

I flipped the sheet alignment to use 2 narrow sheets 96" long. That put the seam on 4 curve joints. That leaves only the two O60 curves that have to be left loose until assembly. The downside is that there are now 8' long sections to handle and maneuver around, but it is a cleaner assembly. This version is named 3A.

I have also attached the FasTrack Modular specifications pdf and cut appendix excerpt. In the appendix, you will find the method for making custom length tracks. Crazy Glue, Super Glue is sufficient with O gauge pins in the rails to put the track together. The concept is to cut the center out and leave two factory ends to glue together to retain the joining pins.

If it is necessary to cut through track sections to create the sheet sizes that you want, that works as long as the seams are kept aligned and the track cut leaves as small a rail gap as possible. Power feeders on each table section eliminates the need for contiguous rail connections.

The FasTrack modules use a 5" piece to maintain contiguous track connections that are put in place when the modules are connected.

If you need some ideas or anything more, don't hesitate to ask.

It's a worthy endeavor to create something like this and take the trains to the people. It puts smiles on faces.

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Last edited by Moonman

Hi again,

i found an old thread on making custom fitters for Fatrack. It makes sense and does not look too difficult.

i first played with windups at my grandmother's before I turned 4, a Marx climbing fireman and a floor locomotive, maker unknown. More recently I've spent time on the floor with 4 and 5 year old grandchildren and a friend's three year old. It just doesn't get any better than this.

come Christmas, the now 5 and 7 year olds will each get presents that don't need batteries, aren't made of plastic, and don't talk to you (unless you count the bell). I've already supplied the friend's 3 year old, but my 16 month old grandson will have to look over my shoulder for a while yet. Thank you Marx and Hafner.

i don't think the tide of complex, electronic, remote controlled toys will turn back and don't mean to diss those who like them. But I like mine and they run even when the power is out. (So do the live steamers.)

thanks for all the help & best regards, Mike

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