Gargraves switch question

If they are old enough to have the molded plastic bottoms they are problematic.

.....

Dennis

Thank you Dennis...

Going back 10+ years, they did have a problem with the guard rails snagging the "shoes" of PW LIONEL so equipped.  The "fix" was to insert a track pin in the ends of the guard rails and bend it down to create a ramp for the shoe, and to file the top edge of the guard rail for a smooth transition from the ramp.

 

If you don't operate PW shoe-equipped locos or rolling stock, it's not an issue.

The other problem with older Gargraves switches is in the 072 size mainly but can appear in other switches as well. The center rail power stops at the input side(no electrical connection to either straight or curve section of switch) of the switch and will need to have center rail power supplied to both outgoing sides of the center rail.

 

Another problem I have had with Gargraves switches is also electrical. The one outside rail on the older 031 & 042 switches is molded plastic instead of a metal rail so you will have to supply the outside rail power if needed.

 

A heads up if you use two Gargraves switches back to back, you should insert a two inch piece of straight track between the two switches and supply the outside rail power to both outside rails of the short piece of track.

 

Lee Fritz

I use gargrave switches. Only as a " stop gap" until I can upgrade to Ross.
The newer ones are better,  but the plating seems to disappear before you even take them out of the package.
The frogs are still plastic and exhibit the pot hole syndrome as anything passes through it.
Some also bind at the throw bar which require some modifications.
The other shortage is if you use a DZ1000 switch machine, the travel of the machine is not enough to throw the points.

I have not had the problem of the DZ-1000 switch motor not throwing the contact points closed .

I have had an MTH steam engine, a 4-8-4, constantly derail at the Gargraves 042 switch. So I am looking to upgrade to Ross Custom switches in the next few years as a replacement for my Gargraves switches, maybe four or five switches will be replaced with Ross 042 switches.

 

Lee Fritz

I have mostly old, plastic-base GG switches; they are primarily plastic-base O-100's (the "standard" GG switch, I believe; gentle diverging route).

 

They have NOT been "problematic". Have I had to adjust and fiddle with my switches over

the last 25 years? Yes. They have been less troublesome, per year of usage, that my friend's Atlas switches, and he runs diesel versus my primarily steam usage.

 

One caveat: the plastic, glued-on guide rails will come off, here and there, occasionally.

Mostly they don't. When they do, I simply re-glue them with plastic cement (not CA)

for another few years. Just railroad maintenance. Mostly on the Mains.

 

I'll take the plastic-based GG's all day long. I do prefer the modern units with switch

machines attached (mine are RIX units, custom/individually fitted/adjusted by me, homemade springs...a pain; hardcore model railroading - but the 3-rail choices were more limited in the 80's).

 

I have one modern GG 0-72 unit. Its OK. I have a Ross yard set. Very nice.

I have both Ross and Gargraves switches on my layout. Most recently I switched to exclusively Ross as they look better and provide power continuity through the switch. The Gargraves work well but at times the plastic V insert used on them often presents a bump that can cause derailing. You can file these some to eliminate the problem (if it occurs) and massage the switch for flawless performance. All year Gargraves switches can work but the later ones with the cast switch points work much better .

Both are good products, Gargraves is the price leader on switches while Ross is a more expensive premium brand.