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I’ve always just heated water in a tea kettle. Transfer quickly to a spray mister and just soaked the ballast. In a few minutes it will soften and loosen up.
Bill, are you trying to salvage the switch ? If not. Whenever I have removed turnouts. I always cut the rails about an inch back on the switch from the track pins. This way when you start the lifting up process of the switch with a putty knife. Nothing beyond the switch gets damaged. After it’s out. Just slid the rails out of the existing trackage. Gargraves sells blades that slip into the web of the track. Allowing the new switch to just drop in place.

Years ago my wife had a steamer for doing curtains. I know it had a wand and a tank. I don’t know what become of it. But my initial reaction when I saw it was. That would be great for removing ballast or scenery.

Last edited by Dave_C

Hi Dave, That advice is incredibly helpful, I have a new switch to go in its place so that concern of saving the switch isn't an issue. I have never heard of those blades that slide in but my other concern is that to replace a section of track or a switch, you need to pick up the track back a ways in both directions. So if I can just slip the new switch in without removing ballast 4-5 feet in each direction, that is a tremendous help. I intend to replace the gargraves with a Ross Switch. Do you see and issue doing it that way?  I also would need to contact gargraves for the blades you speak of, Is that right? Thanks a lot for this information. Bill Park

Alcohol releases white glue pretty easily. Whatever ballast you release can be scraped and vacuumed up. If the switch is trash, cut the ends of the rails off the switch base with a dremel so you can pull the pins out of the surrounding track. If you clip the 'tabs' off the center of the new pins so that the pins dont stop, then you can slide the pins most of the way into the rails, drop in the switch then use a pair of side cutting pliers to grab and advance the pins into the switch rails (it would help to push pins into the switch rails then pull them out to loosen them up a little bit).  Screw the new switch down, reballast and done.

Gentlemen, Thanks for all the help. The switch parts that make the throws are riveted down on this generation of gargraves. They have loosened up and are shorting out when equipment runs over it. Needless to say, having changed out Gargraves switches before and without ballast, it was somewhat unnerving to now have to do it with the ballast there. Again, Thanks for all the information.  Bill Park

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