Getting A DZ-1011 Block Signal Close to Fastrack Rails

1-3/8" sections of FasTrack are available without roadbed on one side or on both sides. Two half roadbed sections and one no roadbed section are supplied with O72 switches (and O60 switches). Since you only use one or two of those three sections with a switch, many FasTrack users have extra pieces in their spare parts. The no roadbed section is also available from Lionel as model # 6-12074. 1-3/8" might be too short, so you may need two sections together for each block signal.

I am not sure that it is the distance from the track that is your problem.  I discovered that I need to raise the signal base a bit as the infrared was looking too low, actually between the wheels, not the car itself.  Try raising the base a quarter of an inch and see if that helps.

Before you modify your track. Have you tried adjusting the sensitivity screw. It’s suppose to aid in detecting black rolling stock.

You could certainly build a small base out of sheet styrene and offset the signal a little on the base to get it higher up and closer to the track if you think that would work.

Putting a light colored car near the front in every consist should also help.

Thanks to all for your replies,

This is critical to solve as all of my engines and much of my rolling stock are Pennsy - dark, dark and more dark!

I did email Dennis Zander (what a nice man) and his response was to try to get closer or try to go higher.  So. I have built some bases that will let me do both or one or the other.  It will take some experimentation and I will report back.  Block locations can dictate different approaches.  Right now, I believe higher and a tad closer will work when the block signal in on a straight piece of track. I can get a little closer without my engines and cars hitting the signal.   But if it is on the inner part of a curve, higher may be all that's needed as cars naturally get closer.  We shall see.  One thing that Dennis recommended that has helped some already is to cover (with your hand) the sensor when you adjust the sensitivity.  That seems to have helped in testing.  My testing has been to hold the signal at a certain height or closeness by hand.  It seems that each of the above may help.  The real test is when the blocks are affixed to a base that will "adjust" each block and to observe their interaction with each other operationally.

By the way, next on my list are four DZ-1060 PRR 7-light signals.  Will they need a similar adjustment?

Hi All,

I've been implementing the above suggestions and thought that I should post an update.  I have a two track mainline with a Z-Stuff flashing signal crossing both at one point.  From one end, 5 separate tracks feed into the crossing by feeding into the mainlines just before the crossing.  On the other side, there are only the two main lines exiting.  Therefore, I have 7 DZ-1011 block signals in place to control the crossing signals from all directions.

To this point, I have built new bases for the two mainlines that exit the crossing (they, of course, are the entering signals if a train(s) comes from the opposite direction).  Both of these block signals are on the inside of curves (one 072 and one 060).  The widest freight car I have is a K-Line Bethlehem Steel Pipe car that swings close to the signals when they are mounted at the edge of the fastrack bases (even my passenger cars will clear).  Therefore, I could not move the signals closer to the track with these two (some others at the other side are along straight track and will allow some movement inward on a base over a part of the fastrack "ballast").

Nonetheless, I felt that this would be as close as I could get them and knowing that the engine and cars would move toward them as they passed through the curves led me to believe this would suffice. So, first I reset their sensitivity to max while covering the sensor in darkness (with my hand) and secondly, I raised the signals about 3/4" by placing them on bases that I built.  AND VOILA!!  Every black or dark engine or car trips them coming from either direction.  I can't say for sure if it was the reset of the sensitivity setting or the increased height that did the trick; it probably was both.

I have built the bases for the other 5 and soon will fix them in place.  Along the the straight sections, I will move the signals a bit closer and, of course, on the curves I will not be able to.  All will be raised and I will rest their sensitivity setting with the cover by hand method.  I expect that everything will be fine.

Finally, I believe the PRR 7-light signals may need no adjustment other than a slight raising by a base under them.

I am a little late this party but, I used 1/2” MDF to make little blocks to mount Z-Stuff detector signals.  I ran a strip of MDF through the table saw to get the 30 degree (more of less) angle of the Fastrack ballast then cut it into blocks 1” wide and 1 1/2” deep.  Paint the block gray or brown.  The block fits up against the roadbed and you can glue or screw it in place.  Drill a hole down the middle for your wires and mount the signal with some small screws.  Once it is working correctly, glue some ballast around it.