Skip to main content

This forum has many different opinions on how best to get power from the transformer to the track with all the appropriate protective devices that will protect both MTH and Lionel trains, and limit degradation of the DCS signal.  I will use star wiring, and run ground wires under the upper level track where it passes over the lower level track to limit TMCC problems.  My question is will the below wiring diagram give me the protection I need?  Overkill?  Not enough?

 

PH180 – 15 amp fuse or CB – TIU (Rev L) – magic lamp (18 v/#432, #1445, or #1447) – terminal block – TVS 36V 1500W – track – car/engine rollers – 22uh 4 amp choke – TMCC  board/other DCS signal killers

 

Notes:  1)  I plan to use fast acting fuses, but would prefer CBs if there are any that would provide the needed protection.

2)  I plan to use a TVS at each track connection, not in the engines.

3)  I will only install the chokes in problem cars/engines.

4)  I will add another lamp at the end of all dead end sidings if needed.

 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

 

Ron

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Dale,

 

Thanks for the input.  I guess I missed the choke size for cars.

 

I was going to use 15 amp fuses because I plan to run a long lighted passenger train behind my power hunger Weaver passenger sharks, and I didn't want them to blow too early.  I was looking at the fuses as a back-up to the PoHo's 10 amp CB.  I agree that if I'm looking for maximum protection, using the 10 amp fuses would be best.

 

Ron

The fuse or circuit breaker after the PH180 is not needed as the circuit breaker in the PH is very good and fast enough. This may not be true if you use a different power source. With the rev L TIU hold off on the magic lamps until you can test the system. They may not be necessary and can always be added. Otherwise it looks good.

 

For those that have not looked into it the circuit breaker in the PH180 is not a simple mechanical unit that it would seem. The pushbutton is not the circuit breaker but simply a reset pushbutton. The actual circuit is simular to that in the TMCC lockon and actually measures the current drawn.

 

Al

If you are using a brick as your source, I would use a 30V TVS rather than the 36V version.  The 36V version is more appropriate for PW transformers that have a voltage boost for the whistle/horn function.  There is no boost in voltage for a brick.

 

18V x sqrt 2 x 115% (for high line voltage) = 29.3V  A TVS does not cut in abruptly at its rated voltage, rather it just starts to ramp up there.

 

If 30V makes you nervous, try a 33V TVS.

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×