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Just brought my old Lionel 3662 Milk Car (O gauge size) out of long term shelf storage. Cleaned and lubricated the mechanism and tried it on a test remote track. With the push of the remote control button, it appeared to function properly.  However, when tried with a track section and the Lionel unloading platform, I could not achieve proper unloading action. The milk cans would cycle through, the milkman mechanism would push the milk cans out but the cans rolled and would not stand upright.  Is there any secret to getting this accessory to function properly? I can only guess that a precise height and spacing from the platform is critical. I am using Gargraves track so that may have something to do with it.  Any tips to achieve proper operation are appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Dennis LaGrua:

The milk cans would cycle through, the milkman mechanism would push the milk cans out but the cans rolled and would not stand upright.

This part makes me wonder if your milk cans are magnetic.  I've never had any problems getting milk cans to stand up -- the magnets always grab the platform and hold firmly.

 

Another thing I wonder is how your milk car is powered.  Is it from a variable or fixed source?  My experience has been that most operating accessories should be run by a variable power source, like an old 40-watt transformer.  The precise voltage at which the accessory will operate best isn't usually one that comes from the fixed-voltage posts of the main transformer.

 

The milk cans would cycle through, the milkman mechanism would push the milk cans out but the cans rolled and would not stand upright. 

 

I always considered that part of the charm. When my kids were growing up in the 1990's, I had a 3662 milk car on a siding.  When their friends came to "see the trains" I would load the car and challenge them to get all six milk cans to stay upright on the platform. If they could do it, they got to sign the layout board.  Of course no skill was involved whatsoever.  Just an ability to push the No 90 controller six times.  And luck.  There were no limit to the number of tries.  The layout is long gone and the kids have long grown up.  But I cut out that section of the layout and it is still prominently on display.

Check that rails are level left to right, and accross. Same for milk platform. If rails are raised due to roadbed / ballast make sure platform is raised also. Platform was made to line up with the bottom of Lionel ties. A fancy brand or style of track changes the equation.

I treat the surface of the platform with car wax. If the cans can't slide they topple over. I also wax the little metal tray at the milkman's feet as it helps the milk can slide off more smoothly. Final idea is to make sure the bottom of the cans are clean and smooth too.

After just spending 45 minutes trying to get my Lionel freight station to operate properly (success - finally!!!), I am convinced witchcraft has as much to do with getting these old accessories to work properly as do tweaks and voltage adjustments.  ��

Insofar as your milk platform, I'll share one of the best recommendations ever given to me.  Get rid of the old cans and purchase modern reproductions with a larger magnet.  Mine operates pretty much flawlessly since getting the repro cans.

I should give proper credit for this piece of wisdom too.  It came from our favorite OGR backshop guy, Jim Barrett.  I was in Cincinnati on business about 14 years ago and decided to stop by a train store in Milford to pick up some parts.  Jim happened to be working the parts counter that day and recommended the repro cans with larger magnets.

Curt
Last edited by juniata guy

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I guess that most Lionel accessories are dependent on a precise voltage setting and proper placement. Today I will try the car with an O27 RCS section. That should give the proper height and we will try that with variable voltage.  The magnets on the cans grab but age may have decreased the magnetism. If all else fails new magnetic milk cans will be purchased but there are so many repros out there that its so confusing as to which ones to buy.

The milk cans, like the car itself, we're redesigned from the older 3462 & 3472 milk cars.  While the latter had magnetic milk cans,  the ones for the 3662 were plastic with a metal base.  The early magnetic/aluminum cans are not intended to be used with the 3662, otherwise you'll have increased chances of jamming.  Fine tuning the voltage for optimal operation is key as was already mentioned, although it still won't be 100% flawless.

If you are running TMCC, you should really consider the Electric RR Milk Car Kit. I installed one of these on my 3472 milk car and am extremely happy with the results. 

 

Better control of the cans, they don't go flying out. But best of all, I do not need a remote track, I can place the Milk Ramp anywhere I want on the layout and release the cans anywhere I want. Very easy to install. Took me less the 30 minutes.

 

Ray

As others have said, the 3662 version's cans were not magnetic.

The chrome flat part of the platform has two sets of slots - one for O and one for 027 track.  Since you're using Gargarves, you may need to test. Or you may need to add some shims under the track there to raise it up.

It sounds like the cans might be "falling off" of the little guy's holding platform due to the height discrepancy between it and the station's unloading platform

I'm having a strange problem.  I took apart my 3472 which wasn't work properly and cleaned it up.  I tested it with out the shell and everything looked great.  I put the shell and added replacement doors since my unit didn't have them and doesn't appear to be enough force to open the doors - with full power to the track.  If I open them slightly, the mechanism will push them open.  Just wondering if the new springs are too strong or I need to adjust the unit somehow.

Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

The milk car can be made to work perfectly but it requires precision settings. My milk car now works great but it took following the comments from the knowledgeable people in this thread to figure it all out.  Summarizing,  early and late P/W milk cars use two different milk cans, the early being magnetic the later scale sized cars using using weighted cans. The voltage that the car operates at is also critical as is the alignment with the platform.  The doors must open freely and not bind. Some dry graphite at the bottom of the mechanism also helps.  The doors must open easily and the door springs need to be properly installed.  Do the setup properly and your 50 year old milk car will work like new.

 

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