PS 3 swap help

While I am waiting for a response from G. This is what I am doing. I just got a great deal on a PS 3 engine while I was looking for a used PS2 engine as a doner to up grade another engine. So the plan is to swap I n the PS3 to the other engine. I have done this before with PS2. I was wondering is thereanything I should know before I do this.

I'm sure there's a lot of things you'd want to know.  PS/3 has different connectors, uses LED instead of incandescent bulbs, etc.  It's not going to be nearly as easy as doing a PS/2 model.  You'll need to take the wiring from the PS/3 locomotive as well, as you'll see when you open it up, totally different connector system.

 

I will give a call in a few minutes.  When powered up in conventional and you turn off track power do sounds play?  G

Yes

Engine is now up and running in DCS issue seamed to be the wiring harnesses being too tight.(Pulling wires from the 40 plug connector) Fix

1.Untangle the harnesses gaining about an inch and a half allowing for more play.

2. Cleaned the 40 plug and power plug with an eraser, ensuring all wires were secure and not loose running into the plugs. 

3. restringing the wires so they run the length of the shell and away from the cooper coil.

I want to thank G for the help and pointing out the issue with the wiring harness, and the issue with the DCC/DCS selector switch. 

 

Barry for being in the  bullpen.

 

Doug

That was pretty quick work.

It was easy once G pointed me in the right direction. Your were right about all the wire compared to the PS2 engines. The swap was simple as I just move all the components from one engine to another. Only changes were I used the lights that lit the number board and used it for the rear lights as it was longer. Now I have my answer from a info request on ACL/Seaboard engines. I plan on using the ditch light function to create an osculating light/red warning light found on the ACL/Seaboard Alcoa C628/630. (I upgrade my Weaver Seaboard C628).  I plan on listing the NS engine I pulled the PS3 out of tomorrow as it is now a dummy engine.

Doug

I suspect just moving the whole wire harness would be the right way to go.  I've yet to have occasion to do a wholesale swap like that.

Doug, one question, WHY?  What advantages dose PS3 give You in this case over the original PS2?

 

Ron

Note that swapping motors can be problematic, there are a number of different gears on different motors for MTH.  You need to verify fit before you launch the project.

 

Why do you need to swap the motors?

 

Earl

John. The only issue would be that the fact the PS3 came from a NS RK Imperial and went into a scale C628 would be the speed and odometer readings. The Weaver can motors and MTH were the same as far as the worm gear and size. I suspect if done from a Steam engine to a diesel or vise a versa would be an issue. 

 

Doug

You have to swap a motor because the encoder for PS/3 is on one of them.  No reason to swap the other motor.

 

I know I've already run across two different worm gears on MTH diesel motors, so I can happen.  Like I said, verify before you rip everything apart.

 

In this case I was swapping into a conventional engine. As for PS2 there are only 2 plugs(Power 5 prong and a 40 prong)on the PS3 board and is one piece. The PS2 board contains two components. Power supply and sound/reverse board. It has 4 connectors ( 4 prong,8 prong,13 prong and 5 prong)on the reverse board. The power board has one 2 prong plug. swapping into a PS1(if it has the speed sensor on the rear motor) or PS2 you would just swap out the sensor and leave the motors. the reason for the lights is that PS3 comes with LEDs and code 17 versus incandescent lights. Like I stated earlier a RK to RK would not be an issue. But RK to Scale would. G could better answer the any other differences between to two systems.

 

Doug

     

I found by going to the MTH parts site I am able to target what engines (motors) have compatible worm gears. This interns helps me identify donner engines. By doing this I have not had any surprises.

Well, that works for older stuff, but most of the new stuff has no parts lists.

 

I am looking at a switcher now as a possible donner. Since I have MTH Can motors from another diesel that I know will fit. All I really need are the components. 

Motors changes not necessary as long as you can mount the new PS-3 tach reader.  In fact some of the motor used to repair PS-2 engines, are PS-3 motors without PS-2 tach reader bracket, you have to back fit the bracket.

 

Just check worm gear and the fly clearance if you want to move motors too.  G

I think that's what I was saying previously.

 

It wouldn't be the first time someone repeats what was said a few post above;-)

 

But I was responding to this comment made:

 

"You have to swap a motor because the encoder for PS/3 is on one of them.  No reason to swap the other motor"

 

You really don't as long as you can mount the PS-3 Tach Reader.  G

G

The Encoder was on the same mount that is on the PS2 motor. In my case I was upgrading a weaver conventional  engine.  Along time ago I had a bought a Weaver SD 40-2 which had a scambled PS1 board. The rear motor had an encoder on it. So if thats the norm for PS1, swaping out the encoder would work, Same if you did this with a PS2 engine since the encoder is conected to the 40 pin plugI would think.. This was a learning experence for me. Dose MTH make warm light lEDs for PS3?

Doug.

You can just connect your own warm LED to the harness, they should be totally compatible with the white LED's that MTH uses.  Simple mod.

I wasn't sure. I know with the PS2 I had to have a resistor connected to the LED I have been using LEDs by Evans design 7-19v AC/DC/DCC compatible for the last 3 years. Since they come with a resistor it would be safe to assume that I can remove the resistor and it should work?

Doug

Doug, Yes.  I am not sure if MTH has the LED in stock yet, and they seem to be pricey when they do.  So I would go the make your own route.  G

Not the Evan's LED, you need bare LED bulbs for this task.  The PS/3 board drives LED's directly.  The Evans stuff won't work here.

 

If I remove the resistor it should work. 

Yep, but why do that when you can buy the bare LED's for around ten cents?

Because I have a bunch of them already.