I just obtained a 6-82702 PS-4 Flatcar with tarped load. It comes with the stakes in a separate bag, to be inserted in slots (holes) on each side of the car. I cannot get most of the stakes inserted securely--they tend to fall out. I'm considering gluing them into the slots. The glues I'm familiar with (super glue and epoxy) will fasten the stakes permanently. Is there a type of glue that will hold securely but allow the stakes to be removed if necessary?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Something like maybe RTV or hot glue, just a dot of those on each stake, would probably do the job and could be cleaned up.
I would try good old Elmer.
Try Clear silicone caulking, will hold for this purpose and easy to remove with no damage.
Charlie
Eileen's tacky glue
Denture adhesive! I use it the keep the passengers in their seats.
Use GOOP, sold by Walthers in a tube. It will hold them plenty solid & if you ever want to remove them, U can!!
Just a suggestion, for what it's worth!
Fred
If you want non-permanent you can try two different things - rubber cement (the kids stuff) or Woodland Scenics Hob-e-Tac. They basically developed this stuff so one can apply to the bottom of figures and move wherever and whenever they want.
Joe
Thanks for the great suggestions. I ended up using tacky glue based on an early answer. The other adhesives have gone on my list for possible future use.
hearncl posted:The glues I'm familiar with (super glue and epoxy) will fasten the stakes permanently.
RE: "Super Glue".
Information:
There are many (many) different manufactures selling "Super Glue" in "Liquid" or "Gel".
- Elmers Super Glue
- Gorilla Super Glue
- Krazy Super Glue
- Lepage Super Glue
- Loctite Super Glue
- Scotch Super Glue
- Etc.
All of these many (many) different manufactures selling "Super Glue" state,
will bond, metal, wood, leather, rubber, paper, ceramic and "Plastic".
Actual Experience:
I used "Regular" liquid "Super Glue", so I could assemble my plastic structures much faster,
without waiting for gluing time.
But after a few years, most of the small plastic parts started falling off,
because the glue totally crystallized and no longer bonded the plastic parts together.
Caution:
Do "Not" use a "Regular" type of "Super Glue", when bonding plastic parts together.
Question: (#1)
Why are these (x2) manufactures selling "Super Glue" with an "Activator"
when gluing "Plastic Parts" together ?
Lepage - All Plastic Super Glue (x2 Part Procedure).
Especially for "All Plastics".
Loctite - All Plastic Super Glue (x2 Part Procedure).
Especially for "All Plastics".
Answer: (#1)
An "Activator" primes hard-to-bond "Plastic Surfaces" such as polypropylene and polyethylene.
The (x2) part "Cyanoacrylate Adhesive" that sets in seconds and develops tremendous strength with just one drop.
"Cyanoacrylate Adhesive" is also known as "super glues" or “instant adhesives”,
due to their extraordinary adhesion profile.
[ED-RRR]......
I like the Hot glue gun from the Craft store for this type of thing cause it isn't permanent and can be reversed.
I like hot glue as well. Like super glue, it lets you work quickly. Plus it has a good balance between strength and lack-of-permanence. You have to get used to the strings, though.
For fine work, try applying it with a toothpick, rather than directly from the gun nozzle.
I'll stick with good old Walthers Goo. For a quick but more permanent application, apply Goo to both surfaces of the objects, and heat both with a blow dryer or heat gun for a few seconds (just until a bubble appears), and then put them together.
However, Goo is aptly named, it is messy to work with. It works well, just somewhat of a PITA to work with.
GRJ, I agree it can be messy to work with, but if you use it sparingly and by carefully gathering just a little bit from the end of the tube and applying with a toothpick, i've found it works very well for over the last 30 years.
It does work well, I don't argue that point.
gunrunnerjohn posted:However, Goo is aptly named, it is messy to work with. It works well, just somewhat of a PITA to work with.
It takes a very steady hand to work with it otherwise disaster is probable
Walthers GOO? Quite clever how they fill the tube 50% with air. Just when I get to gluing away, the tube farts and air comes out. Makes it even messier. Ah! But that enchanting chemical aroma----can't mistake it for anything else.
What type of glue is Walthers? Is it a toluene/styrene based glue like Goop or Shoe Goo?
Walthers is a BRAND. Wm. Walthers was the founder. "GOO" is the name of the product. Supposedly used to join unlike materials, say wood to metal. Seems to have rubbery qualities and I think acetone based. It has been around at LEAST 50 years that I know of.
Avanti posted:What type of glue is Walthers? Is it a toluene/styrene based glue like Goop or Shoe Goo?
Salty Rails posted:Walthers is a BRAND. Wm. Walthers was the founder. "GOO" is the name of the product. Supposedly used to join unlike materials, say wood to metal. Seems to have rubbery qualities and I think acetone based. It has been around at LEAST 50 years that I know of.
Goo, originally Hobsco's Goo, is a rubber contact cement that is acetone based - not sure that it always used acetone; that might be somewhat recent. Excellent for mixed materials and with the addition of a little medium viscosity CA, the bond is near immediate and very strong.
Use needle point tips with GOO. They put it where you want it. Works great and no mess.
Rod Miller
Silicone, holds tight and can be completely removed.