Ground cover base

I did a lot of work with strips of wood and Masonite as fillers, then used a flooring compound to contour the small grades .  

Click on the following:  Station Feed Store  Access an 83 photo slideshow.

Your slide show is awesome Mike.  I am wondering about the flooring compound you used.  Is it real permanent or can or be somewhat easily removed?  My fear is that I might want to change something and it might be like the elmers super wood glue I use for permanent adhesion, that cures like granite.  

Your layout is great.  I have followed your projects in the past.  I have the same K-line switcher.  One of my favorites.  Thanks for your post.

I have many videos covering this topic on our YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/tracksidescenery

Since I am not sure if you are talking about the terrain itself of the actual materials that go on top of it. See the channel.

Also, I will be uploading a new How to video today or tomorrow that will give you some good insight but this is based on the terrain itself.

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 Ground cover material tends to be expensive.  The idea of filler material, and grade work before application of Ground cover is to minimize the cost of good quality final application products. IMO.  Mike CT

Station Feed Store

Base light brown paint is:

 Benjamin Moore & Co.
Interior/Latex/Flat N215   Regal Premium Flat. 
Base N215-3B Quart 
BK 6 1/2 shots
BR 2 3/4 shots
OY 13 shots

I have studied various DYI youtube videos and of course forum recommendations.  There are many ways of scening with some similar basic steps. One element of my layout that needs help is the area between the tracks in some yards and sidings.  Home depot has 1/4 inch insulation foam in sheets that I think would work for the base.  It can easily be cut and shaped and it's light.  I can hot glue it to the layout surface between the cork or between the edges of the ties depending on the area and look I want, apply a dirt colored flat latex paint (should I thin the paint), and while the paint is still wet sprinkle sand and some grass to add variety.

My question is do you think the hot glue will hold the 1/4 thick insulation foam down with enough force to keep the foam from warping as the paint dries.  Previous tries with cardboard resulted in the edges curling up where ever it was not directly stapled.  With the foam I thought I would hot glue the entire perimeter to prevent that.

One reason I am asking is I have seen landscapers overlay the foam with plaster cloth or other coatings, spacklings, and tube goops to smooth and then apply scenic cover materials for hills, mountains and more vertical contours.  Others have just applied paint directly to the foam.  So, is the plaster coating over the flat foam necessary?  What are your thoughts?

Pennsynut.  I have tried Joey Ricards methods and I must say they are easy, simple and not very expensive.  I have taken down our old layout but in the planning stages of the new one.  I plan on utilizing a lot of his ways on the new.  That's just my 2 cents, I know on our old layout I put to much though and about every scenic express scenery down and I could not get the look that I wanted, then I did a little dio using Joeys method and was Impressed.  Good luck and post photos of your progress and folks on the forum can give you some good constructive criticism. Nick    

I use foam core between yard tracks. White glue holds it in place. Then, I seal it with an earth colored flat latex paint. Sealing it with latex paint is the key to keep it from warping when you apply scenery. Also, if you use white glue to adhere your scenery, it can be removed by re-wetting it.

For between tracks I have used cardboard, foam, or nothing, covered with tinted fusionfiber then ground covers.  For paved roads around tracks I have used painted MDF  concrete backer board and woodland scenics road bed painted.

MDF with painted HO woodland scenics roadbed

tinted fusionfiber with ground covers. Track rails done with woodworking paint pen

this photobelow shows the main yard, not quite done with ballasting. As a note ballast in yard tracks is often non existent or very minimal and very dark compared to main line.

Thanks for the replies and advice.  I was down in the train cave tweaking minor track/switch continuity issues.  Lots to do scenery wise, but first a visit to my 5 month old new grandson who I miss.  Then some train planning.  Cheers.