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Hello all!!!

 

My desired layout plan addresses a bunch of goals I was trying to achieve (fitting my limited space, sidings for 4 engines, lots of use of 30" sections where possible, and two inter-connected loops that will allow for two trains running at the same time, but will force cooperation). That last one was suggested by another member, and I loved the idea, so I incorporated it. You know who you are so thank you!

 

So, my question is, can someone suggest appropriate blocking points in my layout? I've printed it multiple times, drawing lines, counting track, but I can't figure out what would be optimum.

 

Here's how I'd like to accomplish it:

1. To block a section, substitue any given 5" section with a 6-12060 5" block section, then remove the middle rail jumper underneath.

2. I'll use the 90-degree crossing as a blocking section (as desired). I can unhook the center rail underneath the crossing from 2 or more sections of track, to block as needed.

 

Thoughts?

Blocking34

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Last edited by Dave_R
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OK, lets see now.

First off, don't buy more parts. You can block the contact by removing the middle rail pin and putting a bit of electrical tape over the end of the middle rail.

Each siding should be blocked with a toggle switch so you don't add run time to powered off engines.

Top Rt loop, Split at 5" in Top, then swap a 4.25 and the 5 " in the bottom near the crossing. Block at both the mentioned 5" units (include the 2 pieces in the block if you pull pins).

Lower loop, Block at exit from crossing and at top of upper 30" on far left right before the switch. Block the outside curve at both switches.

From the Crossing, Block from the next piece to the left.

Block at the midpoint of the upper left curve.

block between the 2 switches at the top.

This leaves the rest of the curve and the switch and the run down to and including the crossing as your final block.

With the sidings that is a total of 10 blocks.

None will exceed 12 joints so you are good for signal.

 

I recommend Susan's Engineered filters if you do not have a Rev L TIU.

One on each side of each split and one on each TIU Output.

 

I also strongly recommend you power the switches separately, they play havoc with the DCS signal.  I run mine off the Z-1000 Aux power and they work fine.

OK, here's what I think you said:

- Red lines mean pulled center-pins on both tracks, then insulated

- Green lines mean toggle switches (though drawn wrong...I'll just add a toggle switch between the wire that spans the uncoupler magnet).

- "Pulled-pins" labeled A-I for reference incase I messed something up.

 

I'm figuring I've got something wrong, so your input is GREATLY appreciated!

 

THANK YOU!

  

Blocking34

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Last edited by Dave_R

You got it, Now, one more thing:

I recommend you use all 4 channels of the TIU, split them up, 1 for sidings, 1 for rt loop & siding feed switches, 1 for lower loop and outer curve, one for remaining sections.

This splits the sidings one the most, you could move one of them to another channel to even it better.

Take each run from TIU to Terminal Block (TB), split from the TB to track blocks.

The wire pairs should be close to the same length within the pair, not with other blocks. I use heavy duty (Monster) speaker wire, Comes in pairs and is very flexible for routing. Has very low line loss also.

 

Remember, To Power Up an engine on a powered off siding:

Select the engine on the remote, Toggle power on and immediately press start up on remote. This keeps it from coming up conventional.

Last edited by Russell
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