Help with Elevation

Here is a link to a pretty good thread on grades.  It takes a good bit of distance to do a reasonable grade. 2% to 4%   Click on the underlined to link.

Good info, but the other thread is locked, so here we go....

I don't know what track your using & didn't see a "simple" approach so here goes.

The old Lionel graduated trestle sets had 22pcs.

  One at each joint every 8.75" = 96.5-ish"(x2,up&down) or so, yields a grade between 4%-5%.

  That much grade will limit trains, train lengths, and operating will take a constant hand on the throttle without command.

Two sets would bring you to a very train friendly grade under 2.5%.

Somewhere in between would work too, if space dictates it.

 If you use more than one set, but less than two whole sets, stretch your transitions going from flat to grade, first. Uncoupling from coupler height issues will arise from fast grade changes.

  The grade doesn't go directly from 0% to 4%-5%. It builds/ends more gradually than the grade center. Keep that in mind as you choose which to not re-use, if you skip letters on the second set (letters=sizes)

 A level elevation allows for hands free looping, and scenery can be built up to it for terrain effects.

 I like my graded coal line with E-33.

   But my level El a reversed pregnancy, offset loop, connecting "air" to a cliff side mine/depot, is what I like best right now.

From it, I can unload about anything, anywhere with a crane car

Not sure that I can explain it with words so I'll show ya with photos  

The elevation from middle to upper. 2-2% grade

In the back you see the track, that is the bottom level. Directly in front of that track is the grade leading to the middle/main level. Middle/main level where you see the ends of the 2x4's. Upper level on top which is the summit of the grade.

All 3 levels seen

All 3 levels seen and the grade track leading from the bottom to the middle, which is hidden n that curve with access from beneath only.

You can see the folded dog bone take shape here.

You can see all 3 track levels and the switch on the left that is the grade track from bottom level to middle level.

Grade track visible here with all 3 levels of track.

The layout has 3 levels:

The bottom level with a reverse loop for both directions, and a grade track that climbs up to the middle level.

The middle level is the "main level" and a folded dog bone which elevates to the upper level only to cross itselfon the main level, and then come back down.

2 mainlines on the middle and upper level.

1 mainline on the bottom.

All mainlines are connected and trains can run in any direction, on any of the tracks. 

Obviously if you are only doing 2 different levels, it's a lot less complicated  

Sorry I forgot to tell you that I am using Atlas track. I guess I have to cut the plywood to the proper radii and build the support structure out of plywood as well. I guess I had a real bad brain cramp on that question. Thanks everyone for the quick responses. The pictures will be really helpful.

ICRRE8

 If I suggested anything to speed you along, it would be a short, digital level.

Zeroed out on the table, or making sure the table is very level first.

Here, slight waves in the surfaces, and combining both water level readings, as well as measuring from the surface, but not necessarily both in one spot, actually made one grade almost 3% steeper than the other in my first shelf layout. At 5%max, both came out 1.4% off my water calculations from failure to zero correctly and measuring from the ceiling, that was not a perfect plane. Each ceiling board section, though blended well, has different angles and waves as it turns out.

 There are up to near 1/8" waves you cant see at this house .

Though right on the edge of acceptable, I can pull a 12 car coal train up the grade.

 I

     ICRRE8 I don't know what it equals out to be but I went 1 inch up for every 4 feet of track length and my 2 levels are 10 inches in height. I am hoping it is not to steep to get A 25-30 car train up it. Choo Choo Kenny

That's something just over 2%.  You should be able to work it, but it all depends on what you're pulling, and what you're pulling it with.  

Brand of track really makes no difference on how you elevate your tracks

Take your track and lay it out on the plywood for the curves. Mark its location with a pencil and then cut the plywood out with your jigsaw. Make sure to leave room for roadbed and scenery, depending on what you have planned to the area.

Here we have the plywood down for the grade that goes from the main level to the top level. The curves are laid out per the track plan, marked for cuts, track set aside, and then cut out.

Here you can see the plywood has been cut out, and elevated with risers. The elevation can be adjusted by raising or lowering the risers as needed, to make a nice smooth grade.

One thing that wasn't specifically mentioned here is to try not to have curves or turnouts at the very top of any grade; that is have the track level out for at least a foot at the top of a grade before going into a curve or turnout.

Also a trick you can use where one track crosses over another, is to drop the lower level track an inch (more or less) for a few feet directly under the upper level track. This can minimize the amount of grade needed in certain areas.

jackson