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Now that we are back in NJ and the various yard and maintenance chores are out of the way it is time to start the new layout.  I had designed it as 9 x 34 such that I had an aisle along the side for access to the back room in the basement and the water heater and furnace.  I had a fair amount of old track in 0-72 -063 and 0-54 so I decided to layout some of the plan on the floor.  When I did this I did not like the narrowness and cramped feeling.  It suddenly occurred to me that I will rarely need a wide aisle to get things in and out of the back room so I redesigned the layout at 11 feet in width and a narrow aisle down the side for every day access to the back room and it was much better.  However I will need emergency access.  On the attached track plan the angled black lines on the right are the doors to the back room.  The area in red represents the access I will need on occasion.  The brute way to do this is mount that area on a removable board that two people can lift up.  Note that the middle track will be 6 or 7 inches higher than the two outside tracks.  I expect the opening to be around 32 to 36 inches wide by a little more than 24 inches deep

 

Given the talents on this forum I wonder if anyone has a more elegant solution for dealing with the area in red.

 

Thanks

 

Al

 

 

full width layout 11'2%22

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  • full width layout  11'2%22
Last edited by Al Galli
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Good morning Al

 

Where is the doorway to the furnace room? and which way does the door open? Need to have room to replace the water heater and furnace. Is there anything in the empty space on the left? How wide is the peninsula table? Right now I could see putting the whole peninsula on wheels and just roll it out of the way, or hinged to swing away from wall. I have a swinging gate access that works great.

J Daddy types faster then me

 

Clem

Last edited by clem k

You can figure the average life expectancy of a water heater lasting about 10 years.

The average life of a furnace is about 20 years.

 

So if any of these are getting up there, you can figure on replacing them soon.

 

But also figure on the poor service man that might have to come and service these  during their lifetime, make sure there is plenty of room for access.

I know, I am a plumbing/hvac service man and seen things built around or near these items and no way of working on them!

 

 

There is some old technology that would allow for removal of the furnace.  My home has electric baseboard heat installed mid-70's.  There was another system where electric cable heat was installed in ceilings.  I did one installation like this.  Both systems were economical installs at the time.  Note that there is no A/C.  Late 90's I installed a Heat Pump, but the electric baseboard heat is still functional.   If the heat pump decides not to work there is a built-in back-up system as long as there is electricity.  Third back-up is a wood burning stove. 

I Shudder to even consider the cost of electric heat here in NH.

No WAY.

 

But I do agree on the lifetime of the items. I replaced a Water Heater and a Furnace in the last 4 years.

Both exceeded their expected span by about 4 or 5 years then died when needed...

When they die like that it costs more to get replacements quickly and restricts choices.

How about the drop down bridge incorporated with dolly wheels on the legs of the section near the doors?

Or just skip the bridge completely and make a portion of the two tracks in that short section somewhat easy to remove so on the those rare occasions when you need it you can separate the table and roll the section in the way of the doors out of the way.

Think of it in time and efficiency if you could separate the benchwork within a reasonable amount of time on those rare occasions you should be alright.

Originally Posted by Al Galli:

 

 

Given the talents on this forum I wonder if anyone has a more elegant solution for dealing with the area in red.

 

Thanks

 

Al

 

 

 

Al...I don't know what type of tabletop you plan on but maybe this would work:

al galli layout

 

With the rollers attached to the leg supports maybe the whole area would be movable.

Mark

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When using casters or dolly wheels be sure all the legs are tied together with stringers so all the legs move in unison. Generally I try to put the stringers as low on the legs as possible 2" from the bottom of the wood if your using casters or wheels with spindles that require you to drill a hole at the bottom of the legs the screws supporting the stringers won't get in the way. The stringers also make great supports for shelving.

 

Here are some pictures of the benchwork for  our 8' X 5' display it sits a top 14 ball casters. We use ball casters because it rolls over carpeting so there wasn't any need for brakes, these type of wheels seem to work better on carpeting than anything else. If the display were set up on a hard floor we most likely would have used dolly wheels some of which would have brakes. The first picture shows the bench upside down on a table while being stained.

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Matthew B.
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