Help With Track Design

I like it....there are a lot of nice long runs....make sure you have access to the trains going along the wall on the long straight section.

Are you going to use a Lionel trestle set? If you do, make sure your clearances takes into account the newer larger trains.....for example some of Lionel's MPC era cars don't clear the 4 3/4" clearance without scraping.

Have fun.

Peter

Hi Paul,

I think I worked on that plan.

The problem with that up and over is the reverse loop is elevated to a desired height. The slope (ascent\descent) is the long run at the top with the switch.

That forces extending the mountain work out to the switch at least for support.

That leaves with a say 6.5"in 11' or 6.5/132 or a 4.9% slope or grade. Extend the slope around the right side curves lessened it some, but your dealing with two tracks being elevated.

I came up with double 45° crossovers where you see the track cross the two tracks to keep everything level.

The right side leaves plenty of room for sidings, industry or city\town.

Well, I can't find the layout now. I'll keep looking.

How do want to go with this? 4.5%-5% grade ok?

Oops, I didn't look at your pdf. At 26' instead of 11' that would cut it in half.

So, Lionel 042 outer, 031 inner (r-loop). Which switches will you use?(switch #, mfg)

Do you just want the loops and you'll work out the spurs and fill in the open area as you build?

I'll knock it out for you.

Ok, here's a rendition of it. The narrow table loses a lot of scenic space. 042 outer and 031 inner. 072 switches and curves for the junction,

031 switch for the r-loop.

The grade is 3.2% to 6.5"

There are two places where there is a fitment issue. A slight misalignment at the low right to the long straight and the piece of straight just past the switch on the r-loop straight will be a cut piece.

had to take sectional snips because of the length to zoom in for track number detail.

What do you think?

How much would the grade decrease if you split it between the two long straights?  This would make the curves at far right at the mid height.  You can slop up to the turns as soon as you clear the  tunnels, level out for the turn around, slope up to the top switch then go flat again.

Peter,

Thanks for the comment.

This will be my forth layout.  My goals are long straights, grade changes, ability to reach all areas of the layout without pop ups, no switches in tunnels, etc.   Trying to learn from past mistakes and/or experience.   Along the wall the layout will only be 30 inches deep.  I would like to use a lionel trestle set.  My track will have Johnson's Rubber Roadbed.  Not sure how that will work with the roadbed,  could use a masonite base under it or just eliminate the roadbed on the trestle sections.

Having fun with it.   Here is a photo of my progress so far.

Paul

Paul,

I've been looking at this plan trying to figure out how to make it two loops like you want.  The problem is its works out to be two tracks each with a reversing loop at each end.  This requires at least one crossover at each end that will make unattended running of two trains iffy; you will have to monitor the crossovers all the time or set up an automatic stop/start system for each crossover that will keep the trains from colliding.

Anyway, here is a picture of what I'm talking about with the crossover (excuse my freehand drawing, I'm not too steady now-a-days).

Here is my attempt to draw the tracks on your layout design.

Anyway, I think it will be a bit complicated and you may want to look at other designs that give you two loops without the crossovers.

Carl,

Thanks for your help!

My switches will/can be be Lionel O-22, O-72 (manual or automatic) postwar, O-42 manual.

I am trying to keep switches to a minimum so operating will be somewhat free of derailments.  But I realize I need them to make operations more interesting and for train  storage.   I would also like to incorporate a trolley line.

Thanks again,

Paul

Paul,

Looking at the photo in your last post - is that carpet in the train room?  Under the train table?

If so, do yourself a favor - install 6"x6" pads under the legs that are on the carpet, that will eliminate the depression that most probably will not come out of the carpet.

1/4" plywood works fine.

bruce

Carl,

I like it.  However not crazy about the switch inside the tunnel.  On a past layout I had a switch inside a tunnel and it always was trouble. I suppose the mountain and tunnel entrance could be shifted to the left and the trestle extended.

The narrow section (30") does limit scenic space.  I will put a retaining wall with building flats along the wall.

The table section by the electric panel will be removable (just in case I need to change a breaker). The electrical panel will be covered by a removable flat of a power/industrial plant.

Would like to try and add least one siding and/or possibly a trolley line.  I realize this is being limited by the 30" depth.   I could expand it, possibly to 32".  

Thanks again for your help.

Paul

Hi Paul,

I tunneled the top switch on L1 to provide a surface for the elevated switch.

It was also for 3D eye candy.

Do you have a way to support the elevated switch from the two mains?

How will you handle the elevated r-loop? terrain or supports?

There are two measurements that I had to guess. If you give them to me I can correct the table dimensions.

The first would be from the left side to the point of the angle where the 15' run starts.

The second is the end near the door. I didn't know the width and made it 48". Will you just make the top larger than the frame or should it be smaller? There has to be some room edge to track. It's 042 outer there.

here's the tunneling removed.

Starting the grade at the first curve adds almost another 100", so it would reduce it to 2.2% (6.5"/292"= 2.2%)

I personally think that would look neater.

Ron,

I would support the switch with an isolated piece of terrain, the elevated reverse loop would be mountain terrain.

Here are the dimensions you requested.

The first would be from the left side to the point of the angle where the 15' run starts. - Approx. 7 feet 

The second is the end near the door. I didn't know the width and made it 48" - 51 inches.

I also like Sinclair's idea of starting the grade earlier (before the curves on the right side.

Thanks,

Paul

Bruce,

Yes it is commercial carpet.  The Mianne Benchwork has 1 1/4" diameter adjustment pads on the legs.  Hopefully they will not leave too deep a depression.

I do have some carpet scraps,  I may test out a few pieces under the legs.  My table top will be 3/4" plywood with 1/2" sound deadening board.

Thanks,

Paul

Hi Paul,

I started the grade on the first curve at the door end and the same rise height to 6.5" at the switch.

It makes it a 2.1% outer and 2.3% inner.  I had 76" at the angle to the left side where 15' run starts. So, it will fit on your table.

There will be 7' between the two inner tracks (outside rails) for a trolley, buildings and such.

I used 40" straights here and there. Will you use 10"s? I want to give you some sectional close-ups of the plan. Then you can see the exact track and heights for supports to achieve the grade.

The scraps or the small furniture feet from the home stores will minimize the dents.

Hi Paul,

What do think about elongating the elevated r-loop?

Forgot to mention some spacing,

There is about 5" to the ties clearance along the wall and about 2" from the ties to edge in the front along the 15' run.

Well, here's what keeping everything at 0 elevation would look like. It would require that the 15' center table be 34"-36"

Just putting it out there...

Carl,

i think it looks better.

Carl,

i will ill be using 10" straights.

thanks for your help!

Paul

Let's you run a longer train without it hitting it's caboose.

ok, I'll put the 10"s in and get the elevation points on those. Won't change the grade. Just provide heights at the track joints.

 "a track design for my new layout"

    For a layout that large I'd try to get at least one route with O-42 or larger curves so you can run larger equipment if you ever want to. You could make an outer O-42 loop and an inner O-31 perhaps with a cross over connection then run the trolley and smaller locos on the inner loop and larger stuff on the outer. A few spur tracks could give some switching or car storage  potential......DaveB

Paul,

ok, 10"s everywhere. One more item...the switch at the top of the grades. I was thinking of two options:

Option 1

moving it past the junction to the left, over the tunnel. That would have it supported on the elevated deck.

But, two concerns

1. Coming from the outside loop and switching in top the start of the r-loop it would be a wiggle and then a turn.

2. Difficult to make a bridge for the two tracks coming together.

Option 2

Move it one straight towards the door. Then, build something like a butte for it to sit on at 6.5"

This wouldn't affect the grade much and leave a single straight for a bridge crossing over the junction. Most of the train would be straight and then enter the first turn for the r-loop. ( now a balloon)

What did you have in mind for supporting that switch?

The 3D with the 10"s attached.

Carl,

i'll build a butte to support the switch.  I am going to start experimenting with some track to see how it looks.  I'll report on my progress.

thanks again,

Paul

Paul,

Ok, I moved the switch towards the door 1 straight. Ready for butte, slope adjusted. Here are some zoomed views of the plan in pdf. You can get the elevation heights.