hORSE CAR / CORRAL WIRING.

Nothing special at all, there is no "controller" for this accessory.  Any SPST(single pole single throw) switch will work like the 364c that was furnished with it..

Your description, however, lacks the transformer connection details that make up the ground circuit connection to the horse car as shown in the above diagram.

The controller is basically just an "on/ off" switch.

Make sure that you hook up the OTC as shown in Rob's schematic. Only connect the power terminal.

check the wiring connections on Lionel's website for #6-36703. It may be less confusing for you.

My setup is exactly as Rob portrays it and it works perfectly.

Thanks guys!!!  Got the pair to work but still have some issues.  It takes much higher voltage to get the car working than to run the coral.  Also have found that the horses will gallop around the coral if the coral is on a very hard surface or lifted on small blocks to get it off of anything soft.  This of course will mean adjusting the track height to mate with the coral.  The exit ramp from the car when down stops a tiny bit too high for the horses to cross from the car track to the ramp. All in all, a very nice accessory, but one that will require a lot of fiddling to get working smoothly. Anybody else had problems with this or the cattle loader?

They are both finicky.

Now that you have the circuitry down, you may want to use a second switch to power the corral separate from the car/track voltage, on a different transformer tap or a second transformer(phased with the track transformer).

What track "O" "027" Fastrack are you using?

Are you using the rubber grommets for the coral? They adjust the height between 027 and 031.

I'm running LIonel Ogauge and gargraves track The track for the horse car is O guage with an OTC pickup.  There are rubber feet at the corners of the corral.  Is that what

Denny is referring to as adjustment?  I'm going to try the separate switch route.  I'm

noticing that the solenoid does not release consistently to close the doors.  I'm wondering if the coil plunger might be magnetized and holding the plunger up.  I know I have heard of removing the plunger and giving it a sharp rap with a hammer to de-magnetize them.  Don't recall what specific solenoid operated device that tip was in reference to, but apparently it often worked.

Do you know the rubber feet on each corner of the corral are adjustable for "O" gauge track. I have the original horse car which was made in the 50's. It still operates and the doors on the car occasionally stay open after turning the contoller off. I merely turn it back on for a split second and then off again and the doors close. I would not advise hitting any parts with a hammer. Was your horse car purchased new or preowned?

Lotsa info to share.  I now have the horse car/corral, cattle car/corral  working very well. Rob suggested two switches for the horse car and corral, but I elected to go with a double pole/single throw toggle to operate both units together.  The problem is that, at least in my case, the car requires twelve volts to operate.  At that voltage level the horses will literally fly off of the corral track.  The corral works best on 5 volts, supplied from a variable voltage tap to one pole on the switch and 12 volts from a different source thru the other pole to the OTC track connector for the car.

   Also, I found a segment in Jim Barret's repair tape #4 which was of some help, but did not address the subject of varied power requirements at all.  He also failed to mention that there is an adjustment screw to control the intensity of the track vibration in the car. Remove the body by removing one small screw in each end of the car and "carefully tipping the ramps out just enough to allow the body to lift off. An L shaped bracket rests on top of the solenoid magnet which vibrates the track and lowers the ramps. This bracket runs down the back of the solenoid and is attached to the track by a single screw in a slot in the track.  The screw is accessed by removing the flat spring with a curved end which is moved by opening and closing the rear door on the car to position the spring to block passage of the horses or allow the horses to pass thru the car.  Once the screw is loosened, the track can be pried upward to produce greater vibration to speed up the horses  or pressed downward to damp vibration and slow the horses.  Tighten the screw while holding the track in the desired position. Try the car and re adjust the screw as needed for desired performance. Replace the flat spring so that the two ply section spreads over the car edge and secures the length of the spring.  There are two vertical tabs projecting upward from the flat spring .To replace the body, Look inside at the door on the flat spring side.  A tab projects out from the door.  Slide the door to a place where the door tab will slide down between the flat spring tabs when the body is replaced on the car, being careful again to tip the ramps out just a bit when the body is placed on the car.  Replace the 2 end screws and try it out.

   Actually, there is a whole other topic associated with how to control the movement of the livestock thru the corral.  For that process, consult the Jim Barret

volume 4 article or post another question and I will write another looooong drawn out explanation.

          Hope this is helpful to someone!