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I got a little free and happy with the micro set trying to get this decal to soften and blend with these ribs and rivets.  So you can see some staining.

I tried wiping the area with water and a q tip but the stain remains.

Will my clear coat even this out and hide it?  How could I try to clean this up a bit?

Thanks

RonIMG_20230407_211347852_HDR

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Have you tried Walthers' Solvaset?

It really depends on the nature of the decal's film, of course.  But I've had better success with Solvaset than Micro Set on some models.

Actually, I would try Set first.  Then, if not wholly satisfied, I'd use some Solvaset.  And maybe a second application on, say, a wood model with lots of grain texture.  Solvaset seems to be more aggressive (softening) than Set....IMHO, of course.

But, TEHO and FWIW.

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd

running into the same problem and using Solvaset but it's an older bottle that I've had around for way too many years.  I'm trying to decal a Menard's army flat green box car with my military units info but  I'm also using decal paper purchased on e-bay and had my lettering done at a print shop here in town.  When I try to apply it no problem but when I put a little bit of Solvaset on it the decal it curls right up and shrinks where it is unusable.   I'm thinking 2 different ways now after spending money on making my own decals.  #1 would be to thin the Solveset 50-50 or some other combo of distilled water or Vinegar and the Solveset or #2 put a gloss coat on the box car apply the decals using method number 1 and then dull coat.     I will try this one also and it is a YouTube video. Got to get this right because I want this box car done for the guys in my unit for convention in June.  We will see how these different experiments work.  Decal setting used to be so easy back in the old days, slap it on apply setting solution and your done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByPlLqGX9No



Below is a mock up, Car is not have decals yet.  ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS ACCEPTED!!!

ALettered Box Car

Lary...

Have never had Solvaset be so aggressive to any of multiple decal films I've used!  Very strange, indeed.

Actually, I tend to find Solvaset that is rather old seems to lose its 'mojo'.  So, before I begin a serious project having a lot of surface relief and with one-only set of decals, I'll buy a fresh bottle.

If I have any doubts whatsoever about a one-only set of decals reacting to Microscale, Walthers, or other setting solutions, I'll consider trying pieces of the decal set that are not critical/useful to the finished project on some scrap material having the same texture and paint as the model.   That way, horrific surprises are minimized.  (No need to ask how I learned this lesson!)

I would also suggest your approach #2 might be worth additional consideration.  I find any amount of gloss (even semi-gloss) on a surface helps with the decal bonding and subsequent setting.  However,...and especially if you will apply a final dull/flat clear over all after the decals have been applied..., do not apply the gloss sub-coat to a local area, only.  IOW, only where the decals will be applied.  My experience is that the dullcoat will not have a consistent appearance over the entire model if the prior surface finish (gloss or semi-) is not equally consistent throughout.

FWIW, of course...

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd

great thoughts dkdkrd  will play around with some extra stuff I had printed at the same time and yes if I gloss coat the whole car and the decals do work then I will use dull coat light coats only.  Got a few bucks invested in decals in different colors since this will represent my unit I served in during 66-77.  also will let the gloss coat dry for about a week and the the decals and let set a week and then the dull coat and let set for a week.

Thanks for the advise.

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