Skip to main content

I know there has been alot of threads about poor quality from the major brands (and well deserved I might add, the only way they will change if we keep posting them) I wanted to add how well my dockside switcher runs. For less than $100 I bought a Lionel NPC dockside switcher 2 years ago. I have done nothing to it yet, lube or replace traction tires, other than add smoke. This little engine runs great, smokes great, and pulls as well if not better than most other semi-scale or O-27 engines. It also has pretty good detail too. I have run it for hours on end this year as well as last year. Anyone else have such a good track record with this engine or any problems? I know this is what we should expect from our expensive hobby but this has still surprised me a little.
A close second this year was my Christmas RMT Beeps.
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

My opinion:

Lionel 0-6-0 Dockside: A fine little locomotive at a great price. Good, solid, and quiet runner. Great finish and detailing. Lousy whistle.

MTH 0-4-0 Dockside: Fine little locomotive if they would only get rid of that grooved/ribbed driver tire that makes the most gawdawful noise at any speed. I like saddle tank docksides!

Right-of-Way: Made the best 0-4-0 dockside thus far offered in O scale. Unfortunately, long gone.
I have two Lionel Docksider's and they are great little locomotives. Probably the most reliable low end locomotive Lionel makes. Good smoke, whistle and pretty good at slow speeds.

I agree with Allan, that I wish MTh 0-4-0 didn't have those stupid notched wheels. The Alaska RR one I have makes so much racket that I don't run it much. It's a good looking switcher, maybe Lionel could make one someday.

TEX
Steve
I've had one for several years, and I agree that it's a great realistic-looking locomotive with excellent detail (especially for $100) and smooth operation. Yes, the whistle leaves something to be desired, but hey, for all I know maybe that's what they sounded like. Mine also smoked better than average, but at some point just over-heated and burned out. Probably just an isolated case, and it would be worthwhile to get it fixed/replaced.

It would look at home in any small, industrial or "dockside" setting.

paul m.
quote:
Originally posted by AMCDave:
quote:
I wish Lionel would make an 0-4-0 "little joe" dockside switcher like the ones that used to run in Baltimore's waterfront district.


My ten year old MTH unit is great for the price....... Big Grin


The MTH 0-4-0 Dockside isn't very accurate in my opinion. Especially noteworthy is the lack of valve gear. I'm looking for something better.
As far as the whistle sound, what I did with one is replace the whistle circuit board from the one used in the Shakesphire set. It has a 'British' whistle which sounds reasonably accurate for a little industral or yard goat switcher.
It is not quite a direct swap, but a easy enough modification. Lionel has the circuit board available for sale. It sounds a little more 'peep-peep' like a small engine. (It doesn't sound like the Thomas whistle)!
I have a Lionel Christmas Dock Side that I bought from Loco Louie in 2006 and I love the thing. Best bang for the buck in the toy train world in my opinion.
But Allan is a hundred percent right in his post above, that whistle is about as dumb as dumb can get and as for the MTH version I call it the little "RUMBLER". Big Grin
quote:
Originally posted by paul m.:
Yes, the whistle leaves something to be desired, but hey, for all I know maybe that's what they sounded like.

It would look at home in any small, industrial or "dockside" setting.

paul m.


I had always thought that the "whistle" on this and the 0-8-0 tender locos was actually supposed to be an air horn?

A lot of industrial locos had these late in their lives as a true steam whistle is harder on the ears and much louder than needed.
quote:
I had always thought that the "whistle" on this and the 0-8-0 tender locos was actually supposed to be an air horn?

quote:
A lot of industrial locos had these late in their lives as a true steam whistle is harder on the ears and much louder than needed.

Perhaps, but it sure doesn't sound like anything I recall hearing on small steam switchers back in my early years, and the sound just doesn't "fit" the locomotive (for lack of a better term). Still, I don't use the whistle feature all that often, and I never use it on this locomotive (I have five of them), so it's really not a major deal-breaker.
Just gave one to my 4 year old son on Christmas. We love it.

It fell on the concrete once, with no damage. But then yesterday we turned on the transformer at full power inadvertently, and broke the rear coupler. Any suggestions on the best way to fix this?

Tried to get a 6x12' layout with Gargraves track done by Christmas so we could run it, but it just wasn't getting done. So last week, I purchased $5 worth of used Lionel O-27 track, and we screwed an oval down on a piece of plywood we painted hunter green. The boy is vary happy with it. We can't move the throttle past 70% on our MRC Throttlepack AC, without it flying off the track. So that adds a welcome challenge.

Eats up our coffee-scented Mega-steam. Much fun. Can't recommend this engine enough.

Jonathan
The 0-4-0 Dockside that ran in Fells Point, Baltimore is available from MTH.
http://www.mthtrains.com/searc...h/B%2526O%20Dockside
The Dockside is a Rail King item, 30-1290-0 or 30-1339-0, and its price is comparable to Lionel's Docksider. Here are the features of the Rail King Dockside 0-4-0:
- Near Scale Sizing;
- Metal Wheels and Axles;
- (2) Operating Metal Couplers;
- Track Voltage Operating Headlight;
- Precision Flywheel Equipped Motor;
- Metal Handrails and Decorative Bell;
- Decorative Metal Whistle;
- Operating ProtoSmoke System;
- Unit Measures:8 1/2" x 2 3/8" x 3 9/16";
- Operates On O-27 Curves.

Both the Rail King and Lionel engines are ideally suited as starter locomotives for youngsters as they are easy to put on the track.
quote:
It fell on the concrete once, with no damage. But then yesterday we turned on the transformer at full power inadvertently, and broke the rear coupler. Any suggestions on the best way to fix this?


If a local LIONEL service station will fix it under warranty, that's good. If not, Chuck at Mizell will sell you one for about 8 bucks or so.
The Lionel Docksider is one of the best of my locos - if not THE best - its close competitor is the old faithful 2-4-2 which the Docksider beats by a hair because of its usefulness without the encumbrance of a tender.

I'm certainly going to get some more of these 0-6-0 workhorses with some 'kitbashing' in mind to have a bit more variety in appearance.

My only slight concern is that the loco seems to overheat after a long session and when it does the direction changing circuitry becomes temperamental but its only happened twice in several years and only then after prolonged use when it became hot to the touch.
OK, I run mostly MTH, but I have 2 of these little switchers. I like 'em.
One has TMCC and gets plenty of time on the layout.
The first one I got in the initial buying frenzy is conventional and gets used for the kids and the Christmas layout.
But before I got DCS I enjoyed running it. That's why I popped for the TMCC one.
quote:
Originally posted by DominicMazoch:

Lionel's is a 0-6-0 tank, but not a model of the B&O switcher.

That being said, it is still a great, amall awitcher.


The closest thing I have found to a prototype of the Lionel Dockside Switcher is the Reading Shop Switcher on display at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania. Here is a picture I found online:

http://www.mikesrails.com/2011...ng-stock-46-rdg.html



Anyone found a closer prototype?
quote:
I would use epoxy (super glue doesn't have much sheer strength) and also attach a metal plate across the break, preferably on the underside, using screws to reinforce it same as Chuck suggested.


Chuck and John,

Thanks so much for the advice. I am really unfamiliar with metal work, though. I know that a screw will bite into wood and plastic; does it do the same on metal? Is it the same procedure as for wood: pilot hole slightly smaller than shaft of screw, etc.? Or does the screw have to go the whole way through the pilot and be held tight with a nut on the other side? (That can't be what you mean--very unsightly.)

Really appreciate the advice.

Jonathan
Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×