I am building a layout. I'm in an old house with a scraggly basement (though I was told that once a wedding was held in it--times have changed!). Around the walls wasn't practical so I opted for an island style about 16x17. It's in a U shape with 3 4x8 sheets and a partial sheet in one arm of the U and 4 full 4x8s in the other. They are connected by a filler of 1-3 feet that runs up to the first support post in the middle of the U. There are 24 inch aisles all around and down the middle (though the middle has 3 posts that support the house, they are not really in the way).
I read a LOT. So I have read all the modeling and real RR stuff I could find. And of course OGR magazine and this forum has been like finding gold bars laying in the street--it has saved me a fortune. I'm retired with little spare income so I am always asking myself what I can do with what I have. Nonetheless, I bought RR Track software and started a l ayout design with Gargraves and hi-rail as the general framework, and the idea that the layout is a TOY--not an attempt to recreate reality.
After floundering around with RR track, I decided I just couldn't face the hours on the computer that were required (my career was spent staring at a computer screen--I've just had enough). Instead I went through my extensive library of books and mags and studied designs on the forum trying to envision how any of the track plans I liked would map onto my U-shaped island. In the end, John Armstrong got me with a plan for the Milwaukee Road including Avery Yard that I thought I could adapt. This plan has actually been republished in a number of guises including in OGR's competitor magazine, with modifications. One of the modified versions was my choice.
The only things I knew for sure were that 1) I wanted to model a loco servicing facility including roundhouse, a diesel house and all the trimmings, 2) I wanted lots of grades and bridges, and 3) the primary "industries" would be passengers, oil and that big engine terminal. After benchwork (a whole 'nother tale in "making do with what you have"!) I laid "Avery Yard" on my material of choice--2 inch styrofoam. I used multiple layers and some 1 inch to give a slight variation to the landscape. I put 3/8 inch plywood at the bottom and in between some layers to make sure I could always go down 2 inches and hit "bedrock" where I could safely screw anything down into a solid base.
I drew diagrams around my Armstrong plan, modifying and deleting as needed. Finally, I had a bunch of pages depicting "pieces of railroad". How do the pieces fit together? Ahhh...that's where the mystery begins and the magic takes place (or not).
Then I just started laying track. I had been lucky to find a guy dismantling a layout and bought all his Gargraves track which was in varying condition but mostly very good. Then I bought some Ross switches on eBay and the guy messaged me that he had dismantled a never-finished layout and had 40 more switches with DZ-2500 or -1000 machines on them. He gave me a list. Did I want to make an offer for them all? You bet I did. And so for a price that turned out to be about $20 each, I bought a hobby-shop sized supply of Ross switches, mostly in the 054-072 range--exactly what I needed. I was shocked when they arrived in all the original boxes, many of them never used. What luck.
So using my track and switches as "full-size templates", I started building up and up. I am in the beginning of the middle of the process. It looks like I can use this methodology to build the whole layout. I've had to rip things out and start over in sections. But I am able to make connections work SOMEHOW all the time so far.
The bottom line is that if you have a framework in mind, cut-n-try can be made to work. It's not elegant and you lose the opportunity to get the RR track and SCARM experts on this forum involved--which is actually a big loss I think. But I am not sure that the computer is the right place to start for everyone. It wasn't for me. I like to set track and switches down in a pattern that "might work" and evolve from that until I have what I want and can lay track.
The vertical aspect is challenging. Imagination is required. But even here, you can cut some pieces of foam to the right heights, use some gorilla glue to hold the foam down, set the track on it and "see what you've got". You can use a pre-made "grade-stick" to check for excessive rise over run. If it doesn't work, the foam pieces break right off!
Anyway, I know I am stupid for not using the tools you all have found so valuable. But this is what I am doing. Long live "cut-n-try"!
Don Merz