Get into narrow gauge. Sell your vision engine and get a couple of On3 or a half dozen or more On30 engines. Then go to a train show and pick up a dozen or more model train magazines from the ‘50s and ‘60s and learn how make the rest of your layout.
You could build an empire for what a couple of passenger trains are selling for these days.
Pete
I have sufficient powered units but i have picked up several dummy locomotives for the cost of a decent boxcar. I can create the illusion of a multiple loco train without the cost of another powered unit. Given my layout isnt overly large this works for me.
Build a PW type toy train layout with all the fun PW accessories you fit on it. But use modern locomotives. You'll have twice the enjoyment , youll never get tired of it and the kids will love you for it.
Some great comments, keep them coming as I am learning a lot of new cost saving ideas.
Some Hints on buying used trains and train gear of lower costs follow.
When I needed train items, while living in Jamaica, I looked in the want ads in the Pittsburgh, PA paper while on leave at my parents home. I found one ad from Dave that he wanted to "buy Lionel Trains". I gave him a call and asked if he had any trains to sell and he said he did and to come over. His basement was full of trains and bought Marx switches, track and items I needed get started on my layout. This was the first of many trips there when I got back in town over the next 4 years.
On buying at train shows, I always make a list of items to look for, which is a running list since the last train show.
I now have to travel 30 or more miles to go TCA shows and try to get there for opening and make a quick run through to see if any of the items on my buy list are their at my "willing to pay price". If I find something that is to high in price I ask if the seller will take less. If I do not find items on the list, I ask the sellers if they have an item I have to have as some will have it under the table or at home.
One time, at an away train show in Shreveport, LA,I asked a man if he had any Marx 1590 switches which I needed badly as I was expanding the layout by 60%. He said he had none here but had 20 at home I could have for free if I paid the shipping. We made that deal! Sometimes you get lucky.
If you have a local train show, it is good to go at the opening. If it was a good show, go again an hour or so before quitting time. Often some sellers will take the attitude that "they are not going take something home" and make great deals. I had only one local show here in 1999, that I could go at quitting time and I got a Lionel 2065 engine (bad E-unit drum) for $30 and a Lionel 8913 ALCO A for $10. On the first visit there, I had bought a Lionel 627 44 ton switcher for $40 from that dealer and he had dropped the prices on the 2065 and 8910.
It also can pay off to look under the tables for junk boxes and other items they did not have enough room on their table to display.
I know I am an amateur compared to those who go to, Mecca (York) but have found these hints good for me to save money and find items I need shows.
Charlie
I would much rather buy something used in VG+ condition from a Member of this Board, than to buy something brand spanking new. I trust the Members of this Board when they say that something runs well with no problems. So far, I have never been quoted a price that I regarded as too high, and I am more often pleased that the quoted price seems much more than fair to me.
Mannyrock
I've been enjoying fixing up some so-called junk Marx trains.Rusted,non-running engines.
My 1st set was Marx,and I've enjoyed them since.You can get some real satisfaction,getting a junker running.
Repainted a couple,and left the original wear on a few more..
They look kinda cool on my well used tubular track.
It's a great hobby with so many different ways for folks to enjoy.
You can spend what ever you like,just like what you spend..
Biggest thing is to have fun doing it..
RMT, looking forward to their upcoming releases.
Bigkid mentioned finding reels of wire at garage sales. I have done the same in the last several years and found reels of several hundred feet of 8,10,12,14,16 and 18 gauge stranded wire, one reel at a time. 34 years ago I acquired several hundred feet of used 4 wire, 14ga stranded wire from and industrial accident that destroyed a unit in the plant I worked at in Jamaica. Chemical plants will not install used wire or wire that need splicing. I used that wire to wire my complete first train board, with much more left to add the extension in 1989 or so.
I have found those strings of Mini Christmas lights that have 10, 20, and 35 lights in series to be very useful for a layout and for rail cars needing lights. I get them from the trash at the street or at garage sales cheap. The 10 bulb strings have 12v bulbs and the 20 bulb strings have 6 volt bulbs and all run on 120vac. Even if you can not find these length strings, spare 12v or 6v bulbs can be bought for about $1 for six bulbs. I cut up the strings into a bulb socket and 12 inch pig tails. I use them as single 12v bulb or double 6v bulbs in series for building lights and for light in cabooses and passenger cars. The bulbs us about a one tenth of the wattage of the lights Lionel put in the cars and most use for buildings. I mount the building lights under the roof so the bulbs will not be visible. So I get the bulbs, sockets, bulb holders and pig tail wires all from a junk string of mini Christmas tree bulbs. Since these bulbs are in series many people just throw them away when 4 or 5 bulbs burn out. When they burn out they shunt across the bulb to keep the string going but all the rest of the bulbs will burn but brighter, shortening there life and then they will throw them away.
Electrical truck pickups are hard to find and are not cheap. So I make electrical pickups for wheel trucks. I use Lionel plastic trucks with metal wheels. I make the pickup from thin flexible brass shim stock, and solder on a small piece of thin tin from an old 9v battery case to keep the soft brass from wearing. The pickup has an oversized hole drill in it and is screwed into a smaller hole in the base of the truck as shown below.
Common outside rail pickup
Another hint is the used auto pin stripe tape 1/8 inch wide to mark my track diagram on my control panel. It is harder to find pin stripe now but still available. I also us mine push button and slide switches on the track diagram. These are inexpensive and will handle 1 amp, enough to run track switches, and isolated track section and control building lights and accessories. Most of mine came from Radio Shack and they can be found on eBay.
Main Control Panel - Bottom triangle has the switches for my new Wye showing tracks to the new train board which has its own control panel
Charlie
One thing I find invaluable is to just be organized. Know what you have so you don’t make mistake purchases. Maintain what you own. So many board failures, IMO, can be prevented with clean tracK and fresh batteries.
@Norton posted:Get into narrow gauge. Sell your vision engine and get a couple of On3 or a half dozen or more On30 engines. Then go to a train show and pick up a dozen or more model train magazines from the ‘50s and ‘60s and learn how make the rest of your layout.
You could build an empire for what a couple of passenger trains are selling for these days.
Pete
And if you go with On30, you can use old HO track - the brass stuff is practically free. If desired, it can be made to look more prototypical with a little bit of work.
YES……Get a different Hobby ! LOL
Waste less time on internet forums and spend more constructive time building models (kits or scratchbuilding) in your workshop for your layout and RR.
How I make Model Railroading less expensive or welcome to retirement
Buy used....locos, rolling stock and accessories. Probably not track but I have too much anyway, I’ve bought transformers new and used
Stop buying I have too much already
Focus on Road names you really want Example CNW Wis Southern
Buy road names in what you already have consists or cabooses for, I’ve wasted a lot in roadnames I will never run
The same applies to era and date specific if you care about matching your roster to era modeled, (I don’t)
I was not careful in many purchases in these last examples
Budget your purchases (this sucks)
Do has much of your own repair as you are comfortable with
Go to train shows when they open but know Real prices
Greenburg ain’t always right
Buy online, Note sometimes smaller stores have nos past releases
Ebay CAN have good buys but be careful as we all know.
Amazon can have items at reasonable prices, my examples are small brass washers and wire buss bars
Use big box stores like Menards and Home Depot for as much as possible examples, wire, fasteners, foam, hydocal, drywall and compound, stain, glues and paint.
Two exceptions to last suggestion
One, except for red syn grease I buy train specific lubrications and don’t ask how I know this
Two, support for local hobby shops MUST be given when economically possible, often prices are less or close to online in this age of control systems a knowledgeable store is invaluable
Finally use this forum. The information here can save in repairs in addition to The Buy or Trade forum, which is an excellent way to build your empire.
Thanks and happy modeling
Patience, get it now is expensive.
I agree with many above have a list to control impulse.
Research prices. Careful about online sellers. Most are good, but I believe a few put up items with a high price and then offer another, at a lower, but still high priced. I call it desensitizing the buyer.
Have a good set of basic tools. Plyers, soldering tools and a few others. Older trains often need wiring repairs.
Learn how to spot wear points and what they mean when buying used.
Fix it up is ok, but you need to have the parts or know where to get them cheaply. By the time you get some missing parts it may be cheaper to buy a complete, pristine version.
Keep a record of what you have. Refer to it when buying, or you will have many redundant purchases.
No matter how cheap it is, even free, what you don't need is expensive. You shelf space is valuable.
Have a plan, always have a plan. If you follow impulse and constantly change your mind it gets VERY expensive.
There is no such thing as an inexpensive hobby. Don't put a total column in the spreadsheet where you keep a list of trains/value, you don't need the shock.
Craiglist/facebook sadly don't work well for trains where I live. Most see a NIB price on Ebay and think their rusty old train that was thrown in a box is worth the same.
Have speed control or protection on the curves, for when the grandkids run the train too fast and off the track.
Gather documentation, schematics and parts lists for your trains. You never know when you will need them.
Be satisfied with what you have.
Buy used stuff, focus on something specific and be patient but ready to jump on something
Cool thread Charlie, right up my alley. I've previously posted a number of ideas in this vein in different threads on this Forum so I won't repeat them here.
A number of ideas and tips can, however, be found on my new website. It is only 5 days old and, should you give it a look, I'd appreciate your input
@mwb posted:Waste less time on internet forums and spend more constructive time building models (kits or scratchbuilding) in your workshop for your layout and RR.
Gee mwb,
I never considered my time spent here to be "wasted". This thread is a perfect example of things to be learned from others.
I do agree, however, that spending time working on projects is more constructive, and very enjoyable
"Greenburg ain’t always right"
You got this one almost right Steve - are the prices in Greenburg guides ever right?
I know that they are intended to be guidelines only, and that it is hard to keep up with current market conditions, but I find that their prices always seem to be inflated, especially on modern era NOS Lionel rolling stock* and PostWar unless it is "Mint" or truly "Like New".
* At shows it is easy to find large selections of brand new MPC and LTI at $15 or less
Quit anticipating and drooling over the "next catalog" from any manufacturer. It leads to obsessive buying of very expensive items. They spend tons of marketing money on the pictures and descriptions, to inculcate the "want and must have" in you.
As Gus McCrae said, "Never get to want'en anyone one thing too much. You're bound to be disappointed."
@Lionelski posted:Gee mwb,
I never considered my time spent here to be "wasted". This thread is a perfect example of things to be learned from others.
I stated "internet forums", not any named specifically, so it was a general statement of a condition wherein some seem to make this activity their life's work.
I do agree, however, that spending time working on projects is more constructive, and very enjoyable
Moderation of time can be well spent; yes. I'm now going back into my shop to work on an All-Nation traction box trailer kit and a scratchbuilding project scaling up one of the HO Ambroid kits that was only available in HO to O scale. The latter is not quite as straightforward as might be thought.
One might consider moving into HO or N scale. Pre command locomotives can be obtained at a fraction of the price of O scale and if you don't need the latest and greatest cars prices are very affordable as is the track, buildings, etc.
@Mikado 4501 posted:The key component for me to spend less money is do some research. Never jump at the first thing you see, because there's almost always another seller selling it for less.
Not Always true, I model in O scale trolley and if I am looking for and see a PE 1370 combine on a table, I had better buy it when I first see it as there will not be another.
But here's some others I've picked up over the years:
- Always go to swap meets when you can - no shipping charges or extra fees, and the ability to bargain is much better.
- Not to mention the ability to physically check out the item.
- If you can settle for less than new, do it.
- Always, I like the older "doorstop" (boat anchor to some! ) equipment, usually very inexpensive and quite robust.
- Always look in a free lot that otherwise would go in the garbage - you never know what surprises are inside!
- "Junk" boxes contain a wealth of material that is worth dredging through.
This hobby can cost as much or as little as you determine. The fact that some of us are nuts and spend way too much for the latest and best shouldn’t discourage those of you who have a budget and stick to it. I wish I enjoyed my state of the art legacy stuff half as much as I enjoyed my 2055 train set in 1955.
@Tom Tee posted:Be satisfied with what you have.
As Billy Joel once crooned,
"You got your passion, you got your pride but don’t you know that only fools are satisfied? Dream on but don’t imagine they’ll come true.”
Never settle for less. Always demand more out of life! Don’t look at it as saving money, look at it as investing in your happiness!
Big ticket items are acquired with lease terms. Pay $200 and get to use the $1000 engine for a year and return it.
I've got over 150 pieces of rolling stock and I bought less than two dozen of them brand new from a retailer. Just picked up a few freight cars today at the TCA Convention for $10 each. I have bought mint, unopened older stock for a fraction of original list price. That said, I do patronize the LHS at times for track, accessories, wiring, repairs, etc.
Point here is that one can save a lot of money by being patient and looking for deals online and at shows. As an added benefit, all of the online shopping around has educated me about what product is out there, helps me spot the true deals, and gotten me to focus on collecting only a few railroads that have sentimental value to me.
And last tip: if you can swing it, don't tell the wife find out what you're spending. ;-)
If you really want to save money, Buy junk and restore it or customize it.
Gilbert Erector Hudson, traded a Scale-Craft K4 O scale loco and several cars for this project.
I actually paid money for this and a Flyer Golden State tender in about the same condition. But not much.
The 259E and 1685/87 cars were a set, they aren't that bad but I got a pretty good deal on them anyway.
More beaters for restoring.
Can't remember what I paid but it was not much and ther eis a 2035, 2065, and a prewar 249E set in there.
Paid $4 for all these shells and pass cars plus shipping
Paid $30 for this prewar 255E with a straight frame. Made it a smooth running rat rod.
Think I paid about $30 for all this junk, several engine's and a bunch of parts. Sold the Kusan shell and gang car and that covered the whole thing right there.
Another $20 purchase, missing one roof the Grey Ives 141 cars
Another $20 purchase, Put together a nice original running 545 and tender and still have tons of parts.
Paid like $60 for this stuff. Haven't decided if I want to clean it up or restore them.
It's all a matter of where you r interest lies. Some of us love diggin up junk like this and either restoring it or customizing it.
Look to the "previously owned" market through meets, garage sales, estate sales, etc. You may have to clean up some stuff, but over the long run you'll save money.
Track can be tricky as the tubular (and FasTrack) may be subject to rust (do NOT use steel wool to clean it -- use ScotchBrite pads and WD40).
I have purchased used rolling stock but not locomotives.
Where I like to save money is with accessorizing a building or the layout. It is mostly fun to determine usage of throw away items.
I use have used adding machine paper plastic tubes, adding machine tape as reels, brita water filter as building tanks, medical scraps for sign holders, printer drive wheels for yard debris and of course, medicine bottles moisture containers for truck loads. Years ago, I am dating myself, fax machine paper had nice plastic tubes which made nice large pipes.
Many hobbyists contributing to this thread have offered practical suggestions for "cost control." The fundamental basis for economy is internal; i.e., psycho-emotional self-control of one's own impulses to "buy what I like" perhaps without much thought upfront about financial consequences. Hobbyists with deep pockets can afford their indulgences; more power to them!
At the peak of my active collecting, I gathered eight pages of O-gauge trains of the Rock Island RR by all manufacturers. I followed with control gear, track & switches, action accessories, scale autos, and figures; much of which remained in their boxes for years. Then came a TIA, a mild stroke, and a cardiac incident. I survived these "early warning signs," and sold nearly all of it in just one weekend via Stout Auctions.
I kept a few favorites (now on display in the train room) and subsequently added a couple of "got to have" RI trains: the TA diesel passenger set by Sunset 3rd Rail, and the MTH Aerotrain with RI décor. But I won't buy back the RI trains and stuff I once owned and loved.
Now I enjoy the hobby just as much, maybe more so, because I can spend more time running fewer trains! Further, I'm saving money by not paying storage unit fees for all that train stuff in original boxes.
Mike Mottler LCCA 12394
Just stay old school like some have mentioned .
I have always enjoyed the pre and postwar items anyway and have an affection to the MPC era for their verity but also the price .
With the money you save put some back and buy a modern or more desirable item you like .
I myself just have never been a big fan of all the modern bells, whistles and remotes , but maybe over time with possible retirement looming I’ll dive into the “ techno “ part of the hobby as a convenience .
But who knows , I love being from the “Old school “ .
All excellent suggestions above, unfortunately, hobbies in general are expensive. I think the definition of the word hobby should be "an very expensive activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure"
All my hobbies are expensive, trains, guns, cars, photography, woodworking, tools... 
Of course buying used is a way to save, but you could also be inheriting someone's else's problems. 
If you don't mind repairing/rebuilding and painting, used is the way to go 
, but if your not handy then it can be a nightmare. 
NYC428
Quote from above post
"All excellent suggestions above, unfortunately, hobbies in general are expensive. I think the definition of the word hobby should be "an very expensive activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure"
I have not found that to be true, "that hobbies have to be expensive".
Golf - I paid $40 dollars for a used set of Pro (set of irons for $600 or more) clubs in 1970. I have two other sets of newer PRO clubs bought in the last 12 years one for $5 and other for $10. I pay $9 to play golf at a historic municipal golf course here, walking, no golf cart. Bigger golf courses cost $12.
Vintage Stereo - I buy vintage (1970s) stereo gear at garage sales and thrifts and have several receivers bought for $10 to $35, since 2004, that sold for $1000 to $1200 on Ebay completed auctions in the last month. I have several sets of vintage speakers, turntables and reel to reel tape recorders that have gained almost as much. I consider the vintage stereos to be one of the best investments I have ever made.
Tools - I have lots of tools. Most were bought years ago at garage sales and from classified ads or rescued from the trash. They have not appreciated much but have cost much less than buying new. They reduce the cost of making repairs to the 6 houses I have owned over the years, repair the my used cars and boat and have hobby' like model trains.
Boating and water skiing - I bought a used 18 inboard/outboard for $900 in 1970. After adding new seats (and selling the old ones) totaling $100, I used it for over 40 years and sold it for a couple hundred dollars.
Model trains - you all know about my less expensive model train layout with the 34 Marx switches, use post war trains and $10 homemade turntable.
Investing long term in the US stock Market
So hobbies do not have to be expensive. The key to affording them is not to go out and buy the newest or greatest. Buy used hobby gear, after doing your home work and seek out bargains, and be patient in looking. One also has to modify pride, bragging rights and greed for new, greatest and expensive stuff.
Charlie
"It's not bragging if you did it"
Funny, the first thing visitors often ask is "How much did this cost"? I often reply that good model trains are a bargain when you consider their longevity. How many household items such as electronics or appliances last 50+ years?
One of the best values in 0 scale to me is MPC era trains - they are great runners and easy to maintain. They can be found NIB at train shows or online for a bargain.
As bigkid said above, choose one or two railroads to model and stick to just those for your motive power. Essentially, all you really need for a given road is a switcher, road switcher and maybe a full-sized road engine. Or steam equivalents, etc. You can mix in different road names on your rolling stock which, of course, which are much, much cheaper than engines.
Buy “like new” rather than “new” but insist that the seller guarantee that what you purchase is functioning properly.
Buy used tinplate track rather than the newer and much more expensive types.
If you are able to attend a train show locally, there are ALWAYS some real bargains to be found there if you look for them. Otherwise, search ebay for bargains.
Bottom line: you can put together a superb model railroad for a few hundred dollars with little difficulty.
@Don Winslow posted:Funny, the first thing visitors often ask is "How much did this cost"? I often reply that good model trains are a bargain when you consider their longevity. How many household items such as electronics or appliances last 50+ years?
One of the best values in 0 scale to me is MPC era trains - they are great runners and easy to maintain. They can be found NIB at train shows or online for a bargain.
Don't forget the "play value" Don
Appliances ain't got that!
Charlie, great post and great layout.
Back in the thirties, when people had no extra money, there was a lot of scratch building, not only structures but engines and cars. People had smaller layouts and were content with fewer engines and cars.
A lot of current three railers are collectors as much as layout builders and are pretty well heeled. These are the layouts and collections featured in the magazines. I certainly understand the appeal. But the hobby of acquiring stuff and the hobby of model rail roading are two different things.
@Choo Choo Charlie posted:NYC428
Quote from above post
"All excellent suggestions above, unfortunately, hobbies in general are expensive. I think the definition of the word hobby should be "an very expensive activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure"
I have not found that to be true, "that hobbies have to be expensive".
Golf - I paid $40 dollars for a used set of Pro (set of irons for $600 or more) clubs in 1970. I have two other sets of newer PRO clubs bought in the last 12 years one for $5 and other for $10. I pay $9 to play golf at a historic municipal golf course here, walking, no golf cart. Bigger golf courses cost $12.
Vintage Stereo - I buy vintage (1970s) stereo gear at garage sales and thrifts and have several receivers bought for $10 to $35, since 2004, that sold for $1000 to $1200 on Ebay completed auctions in the last month. I have several sets of vintage speakers, turntables and reel to reel tape recorders that have gained almost as much. I consider the vintage stereos to be one of the best investments I have ever made.
Tools - I have lots of tools. Most were bought years ago at garage sales and from classified ads or rescued from the trash. They have not appreciated much but have cost much less than buying new. They reduce the cost of making repairs to the 6 houses I have owned over the years, repair the my used cars and boat and have hobby' like model trains.
Boating and water skiing - I bought a used 18 inboard/outboard for $900 in 1970. After adding new seats (and selling the old ones) totaling $100, I used it for over 40 years and sold it for a couple hundred dollars.
Model trains - you all know about my less expensive model train layout with the 34 Marx switches, use post war trains and $10 homemade turntable.
Investing long term in the US stock Market
So hobbies do not have to be expensive. The key to affording them is not to go out and buy the newest or greatest. Buy used hobby gear, after doing your home work and seek out bargains, and be patient in looking. One also has to modify pride, bragging rights and greed for new, greatest and expensive stuff.
Charlie
"It's not bragging if you did it"
Charlie I posted above that I think this is a great topic. But I have to say, you have just listed a bunch of relatively expensive hobbies that you manage to do by finding bargains. Good on you!
I'd like to point out that there are actually many really affordable hobbies that don't require finding great deals. Golf is much more expensive than tennis, which only requires a single racket, some balls, and can be played for free on municipal courts. A kayak is cheap. and healthy alternative to a power boat. Etc., etc. Then there are many "hobbies" that are basically free. Walking and hiking, bird watching, reading, etc.
People used to collect stamps from their mail, bottle caps, rocks, matchbooks, shells, etc., all things that others have been discarded or are free. It is only recently that we have become such a consumer society, and many of us automatically associate a hobby and collecting with buying things. This was a luxury only available to the rich until relatively recently.
Again, this is no knock on your post nor does it diminish the excellent premise of this topic. I just wanted to make an observation on how things have changed.
Saving money is easy....just don't buy so much.
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