How to power a track?

@Will Wilkin posted:

I built a layout table for my brother.  Running along the wall, it is 17' long, with a 24" center straightaway run and 60" bulges at each end for turnaround.  His curves are O-36.

He has a GW-180 transformer that I want to use to power the track.  He hopes to run 2 locomotives.  I installed at 10 track locations a set of Lionel Accessory Wire to the undertrack terminals.

These are 22-gauge wires, with pre-crimped terminals that fit the track.  I told the train-specialist at the Hobby shop about the planned layout and need to power the train, and he recommended these wires.  Below is the actual label:

Now that I'm posting the pics, I notice I can read the wire to see the AWG-22, but when purchasing I didn't know what gauge they were, as Lionel doesn't specify on the label.  Now I'm worried these wires are too small to power Lionel locomotives?  What size wire SHOULD be there?  Doesn't it help that there are 10 sets distributed around the layout?  Most powered track sections have 3 non-powered tracks between them, a few with 4 non-powered tracks between them.

Also, I want to drill holes in the table to push the wires under the table.  I want to run, under the table, one long red and one long black wire from the transformer, and tap the 10 track wire sets in at various points along the long red and black.  Is that a good plan?  What gauge wire should those long feeder wires be?  And what is a good tap method so each track power set is a parallel branch off the red and black feeders from the transformer?

Well, my initial reaction is that you have *way* too many track power connections (ISTM that 3 or 4 would be more than adequate), but the extra connections won't hurt anything. 22 gauge wire is more appropriate for wiring low-current accessories, but with as many drops as you have planned (*all* of which are powering the track all the time) and with the bus wires you plan to install, I think you'll do just fine. I'd suggest you make the bus wires at least 18 gauge wire, though (and better 16 or even 14 gauge), but routing the smaller feeder wires up through the layout seems like a reasonable approach. One alternative might be to route the bus and feeder wires under the fastrack, but that usually involves having to cut some notches under the track to allow the wires to fit, so under-the-layout is a more popular and traditional way to do it IMHO. Good luck, in any event!

1. The 10 planned track connections (power drops) are more than sufficient for that layout. Actually, 6 should be more than sufficient.

2. Yes, you can run red and black wires underneath the layout from the transformer to which you can make your track connections (feeders). They are called bus wires and there are different connectors you can buy to make the connections such as "suitcase" connectors or "t-taps" (both shown below) or wago style connectors. I would recommend the bus wires be 14 gauge.

3. I think most operators would recommend a thicker gauge than 22-gauge for your track connector wires (feeders) like 16-18 gauge, but the Lionel ones will power your engines and I think you will be alright using them running two trains.  If you can return them, you can make your own by buying paired 16-18 gauge stranded wire (box stores, Digikey, etc.); cutting to length and stripping; and using the blue female crimp connectors shown below, which will fit the tabs on the underneath of your Fastrack.

Thanks much Steve and Richie, your replies reassure me that these Lionel Accessory Wires will power the train, despite being 22-gauge (thin), by virtue of there being so many.  This is a learning experience, a convenient warm-up before I build my own aerial layout at my house, when I will apply improved methods learned building my brother's table layout.  Crimping my own fatter wires will be one of those lessons, and I'll start practicing from now on on my brother's train.

I'm taking your advice Richie and just ordered a pack of T-taps and a crimper.  I found a reel of stranded 12 gauge wire I'll use for the bus wires and crimp in the 10 accessory wires as T-taps.  Maybe when I find the right terminals to fit the Lionel FasTrack, I'll make my own power wires for future additions or swapping these out someday.  When I build my own layout, it will be Gargraves track (I bought a bunch of 30" flex tracks already) and I think I also bought some Gargraves power terminal little straight tracks too.  I'll dig it out when I'm ready, and have this new crimping experience by then.

The blue Fastrack connectors are available on the big A - just search for ".110 female connectors". Last time I checked they were about $3 for a pack of 25, which would cover your layout, and require no special crimping tool - just a good set of pliers.

You can mix and match gauges with the T-taps - just make sure you order the right set. 12 gauge wire can be pretty heavy and stiff and difficult to work with, but you should be okay.

Unless you have holes drilled through the table framing within which to run your bus wires, you'll need a way to support them and keep them from hanging down. There are various methods and products to do that, like plastic plumbing supports, but I like using plastic plumber's tape for a quick and easy installation. It's inexpensive flexible plastic tape about the width of a tape measure and comes in rolls. Just cut a short length off about 4-6 inches long with a pair of scissors and place over the wire you want to support and press up against the table underside. Then staple each side of the tape to the table with a heavy duty stapler and the wire stays put. Makes a neat installation - just don't staple into the wire.