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I had this issue a few years ago with one of my Williams E8's. I received several suggestions, but none of them will work without damaging the paint. Ultimately I just shaved the glue drops down as low as I could get them with an X-acto blade. They are still slightly noticeable, but not as bad as when I first got the glue on the paint. If you try this method, make very certain the blade is parallel with the surface or you will scratch the paint. Take your time and make slow passes.

 

I learned a lesson the hard way when this happened. When the super glue comes out, I put everything I like away.

A friend of mine suggested:

"Sometimes hot water will loosen it enough that you can carefully scrape it off with your fingernail or a plastic razor blade. Don't use a metal razor blade or knife because you risk damaging the paint."

Hot and cold applications can shrink the surface causing the glue to lose its adhesion. Stay away from Acetone it will eat the painted surface as well.

Which leads to the question: How do you apply Super Glue?? Thin set, Medium set, Thick set, Gap filling..........  The long applicator tips on the bottles are not the best, IMO. 

I place a large drop on wax paper, and then dip a small brass wire in the adhesive, and then let capillary action take effect. Touch the drop on the end of the brass wire to the point of attachment.  Doesn't take much glue. 

Other application techniques would be appreciated.

 Mike CT  

 

  

Last edited by Mike CT

Dave,

Having built thousands (literally) of plastic model airplanes, I can tell you I've tried about everything to remove super glue.  There is no good solution to this problem.  

 

The best solution is to keep it from happening in the first place-sometimes easier said than done.  Doesn't matter how great of a modeler you are, sometimes accidents happen.

 

I had some models that I wanted to take apart and rebuild.  The few things that made the glue soft or 'gummy' would also attack the plastic.

 

The only way to do it right is sand it smooth and repaint.  Clear parts can be saved but require a lot of extra effort.

 

Good Luck!  Let me know if you find something that works, I'm interested.

This is weird and may not work for everyone.

A lot of women, including me, have skin that is far more acidic than that of most men. I can't handle anything I plan to use CA glue on unless I clean it afterward. (No, it won't stick my fingers together for longer than a minute or two, either. It comes right off.)

This led me to wonder whether vinegar or lemon juice would loosen it from items without damaging the glued object. For me, it does. I put it that way because it's entirely possible that only a defective bond will come loose that easily. If you want to try this, use the "soldering" technique MikeCT described just in case, putting the acid on the glue. If it does what you want, you'll have to clean the surfaces very well afterward and it might not be a bad idea to use a bit of baking soda on the affected areas before you try to glue them again.

Originally Posted by Mike CT:

How do you apply Super Glue?? ......Medium.......... 

I have my own long applicator tips that fit on the bottles and last far longer than the lousy ones that they sell with the CA.  Tip OD is ~ 0.5 mm.  Control is actually too good as the Id is so fine as to make the flow of medium CA a bit challenging.  I snip off a bit to get a very slightly larger ID. 

 

An added advantage is that the the tip is so fine that I've had the current bottle open on my work bench for almost this entire year w/o any complications.  Dry in my shop....

 

Originally Posted by david1:

what is the best way to remove super glue residue from a painted plastic model? 

 

I have tried nail polish remover with  little success. Any ideas? 

David,

I have used Z-7 Debonder(from the makers of ZAP) several times to remove super glue.  It along with the super glue will turn into a gel that wipes off.  The thing is it may harm the paint on some models but not on others.  I would try it on the overspray inside the shell first.  The longer you leave it on, the higher the chance of harming the paint.  Try to apply on the glue only using a toothpick or another small applicator, otherwise a large blob comes out of the container.

I've also used the Z-7 Debonder and other commercial super glue removers with success. I have no idea what's in them and I suspect it's one of those things you don't want to know. 

 

I also use toothpicks to apply super glue. Instead of wax paper I squeeze a dab of glue out onto a leftover plastic container lid from yogurt, coffee, or whatever. The kitchen provides a never-ending supply. I also use ordinary straight pins for smaller amounts of glue; I get a new supply every time I buy a shirt. I'll have to try the idea of cutting off a sewing needle. That's clever and sounds like it would work better than a straight pin.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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