How to wire a power block, and do they need relays?

hello 

yes you can use a common ground as far as relays go it will depend on what you want to do i have two trains running on one track and with a relay the slow train will stop the faster train and they will not collide i also have  tow trains running on the same track in different directions using two relays or if you want just power blacks a toggle switch will do but more advanced people will chiam in i'm sure i use fast track you can look up my post showing 7 train running

kevin

1)  Is it true that only the hot wire, for each power block, needs to be run thru the switch to control power blocks, and that only one common needs to be connected to the track? I would like a bit of clarification on this.

1) True

2)  What do you all use for toggle switches for power blocks, and is there any way that the current can run directly thru them, or is it a requirement to use relays?

2)  We use a variety of different toggles, Some are DPDT center off, some are straight on/offs and we even use Electrical wall house  light switches... Just make sure the toggles can handle the current....

3)   Don't need  relays on our layout except for signalling/ power routing on turnouts.

Thanks guys.

So, regarding the relays, I am only concerned, at this point, with switching power blocks on and off.

Regarding the current requirements for the toggle switches, what should they be able to handle for power blocking?

Voltage, Amperage, etc.....

One other suggestion, particularly if you have older transformers.  Set both transformers to the same voltage and then use the voltmeter to check each to verify that they are in fact putting out the same voltage.  Close is fine, but if you notice a jump when you are running, they may actually be different enough to cause that.  If that’s the case, just manually recalibrate.

Oops, ignore my info above.  That was intended for another thread.  Sorry.

Bob Golfs posted:

One other suggestion, particularly if you have older transformers.  Set both transformers to the same voltage and then use the voltmeter to check each to verify that they are in fact putting out the same voltage.  Close is fine, but if you notice a jump when you are running, they may actually be different enough to cause that.  If that’s the case, just manually recalibrate.

The transformer is a Lionel ZW with 2 PH-180 power bricks. I am thinking that the two sides of a ZW should be in phase naturally, but I will check to make certain, when I hook it up.

I use the "run of the mill" standard toggles. They're inexpensive at the local hardware store rated for home electrical voltage/120v so they more than handle the 18v from a 180w powerhouse.

I also use a SPDT ( single pole double throw toggle) to toggle between two engine storage tracks. This saves a toggle and works fine since I only want to power the track that the engine is pulling in or out of.

Note the extra "out" terminal:

Thanks for the clarification on the toggle switches.

BTW, do you mount them on the table  or on a pannel?

With only one connection to the area of track controlled by a given transformer, and assuming that there are several switches with Several sections insulated for non-derailing, is there a risk of a section of track not being grounded, or do the metal wheels and axles cross the ground from one outer rail over to the other in those situations?

RWL posted:

BTW, do you mount them on the table  or on a pannel?

Mine are mounted to a rough piece of Luan plywood mounted to the side of the layout where I control the trains.

Eventually it will be my "control panel" when it gets a cosmetic facelift, probably not for a couple more years when I finish the "fun" stuff like the layout scenery. I have temporay labels that indicate which block each toggle activates.

RWL posted:

With only one connection to the area of track controlled by a given transformer, and assuming that there are several switches with Several sections insulated for non-derailing, is there a risk of a section of track not being grounded, or do the metal wheels and axles cross the ground from one outer rail over to the other in those situations?

Yes , there's nothing wrong with feeders to both outside rails for a better common. Makes for a good TMCC and DCS common.... We drop feeders from both outside rails  on our dcs set up.

Gregg posted:

RWL posted:

With only one connection to the area of track controlled by a given transformer, and assuming that there are several switches with Several sections insulated for non-derailing, is there a risk of a section of track not being grounded, or do the metal wheels and axles cross the ground from one outer rail over to the other in those situations?

Yes , there's nothing wrong with feeders to both outside rails for a better common. Makes for a good TMCC and DCS common.... We drop feeders from both outside rails  on our dcs set up.

Ok that makes sense, but does that take car of a large section with several non-derailing switches, or is it a good itldea to run an couple of ground feeders to centralized areas in the section?

RWL:

If not too late it is good practice to run power through the toggle switch not ground. After shutting down 'power' to a block you want ground still connected to drain off any residual voltage. If you have ground connected to the toggle switch then once disconnected there is no place for the residual voltage to go which means the next time you turn on the power the voltage will be that much higher for an instant. This may be overkill for a train layout however it is common for premature bulb burnout in home lighting. Ground connections in the back of the fuse box loosen up with the weather (hot to cold to hot) thus not completely draining voltage supplied to the bulb. Residual voltage keeps adding up each time the wall switch in turned on/off till one day the voltage spike when first turning on a light becomes too much and the filament burns out.

Joe

Model Structures posted:

RWL:

If not too late it is good practice to run power through the toggle switch not ground. After shutting down 'power' to a block you want ground still connected to drain off any residual voltage. If you have ground connected to the toggle switch then once disconnected there is no place for the residual voltage to go which means the next time you turn on the power the voltage will be that much higher for an instant. This may be overkill for a train layout however it is common for premature bulb burnout in home lighting. Ground connections in the back of the fuse box loosen up with the weather (hot to cold to hot) thus not completely draining voltage supplied to the bulb. Residual voltage keeps adding up each time the wall switch in turned on/off till one day the voltage spike when first turning on a light becomes too much and the filament burns out.

Joe

Thanks for the warning, but yes, I do plan to run the Hot wires thru any and all switches. That is just good electrical practice.