I Didn't Know This About Turnouts:

Use insulated joiners or cut a rail open, then put the siding on a toggle switch. Problem solved.

Hal, to store an engine on that siding you would have to insulate the rails right after the switch.  You can use a toggle switch to cut the power to that siding after the engine gets on that siding and gets to where you want it stopped.

Rick

PS:  Some manufacturers turnouts the power passes through, others do not.  It depends.  In either case you can make a gap in the rail at either end to cut off power or add a wire to add power.

I use Caboose Industries Groundthrows for all my manual switches.   

http://www.cabooseind.com/GroundThrows

I use the older 202S (HO) because it looks better with O than the ones labeled O scale.   At the time I bought mine they did not come with contacts.   However the back of the throw bar sticks out of the frame.   I buy Radio spdt spring lever switches and mount them behind the groundthrow, so the throwbar moves the lever when the switch is thrown.   I power my frogs and single ended sidings this way.    Same idea as using an SPDT switch on a panel, only tied to throwing the switch.

PS: you only need to gap the one rail on the frog side on the siding.

Yeah...I guess I could cut a gap in a siding feed and bridge it with an SPST switch placed under the train board.

OR, I could forget about placing a Loco on the siding, using it only to store extra rolling stock.

Then I could switch engines by just picking 'em up and swapping 'em!

The only ones who would ever observe this "unrailroadlike" practice would be my Grandkids, who come to California from Chicago every summer to visit us.

Just remember, fellas...this is a Billiard Parlor first, and a Model Railroad Room second! 

YOWSAH!

Bad Order

Just use an insulated joiner on one rail between the turnout and the spur track, then tie the now-insulated rail to a toggle switch. That will allow you to cut the power to the spur. Use a good toggle switch; you'll pay more, but it will be more reliable.

 I believe that even when a switch passes power, you still would want to have power drops to all sides of the switch. I did this on my layout so I can run large engine consists without the fear of melting the switches traces.

 Cutting at least one rail, or installing a insolated joiner, does the same thing. With the power drops after the switch, the current is handled by the wires and not the switch. I'm hoping I explained that correctly.

I always insulate the middle rail, the power toggle should be close to your control center.  A little more wiring but well worth it, as not all engines will shut down the sound, and I hate to have unused engines idling most of the time.  I have lighted toggles for mine. 

HEY WB47,

Control Center?  So who's got a control center?

I have one 30-foot length of 16 gauge power cord going from my simple Analog DC controller to a terminal on my layout that splits and goes to opposite points on the line to equalize the voltage drop around the 124 feet of track.

My "control center" is simply my old controller, with no other switches or lights anywhere.

If I could make it simpler that that, I would! 

I'm a retired aircraft engineer, with 37 years in the business, both commercial and military.   I've had enough technology to last me for life, and since I retired from Boeing 16 years ago, I've tried to avoid techncal complications whenever possible. 

I have a Cell Phone which I never use.  I don't have a Smart Phone, a Laptop, an I-Pad, or Wi-Fi either.

My 53" Sony TV is not High-Def, and it's 21 inches thick!

So the best suggestion concerning my turnout is my own: 

Don't do anything to it!  Just use it as it was designed for...shunting rolling stock onto a siding, or better yet, onto a spur, which requires only one turnout. 

As for changing my 2 engines, I'll just lift one off the track, place it on the windowsill, and put the other one in its place!  No lights, no switches, just sheer simplicity!

That's all, my Friends, and I really do 'preeshiate all your willingness to help!

BAD ORDER HAL

Hal:

I hafta admit that I admire your "KISS" method(s).  Have fun!

Peter Trunk, NJ

HEY PETE,

I admire your admiration!

BAD ORDER

WHAT ABOUT THIS IDEA?   (Suggested by Matt)

Buy another LH turnout and install them both in the main line near each other.

Then use insulated rail joiners between the branch of the turnouts going to the spur tracks where I'll store my two locomotives (GP-35 and SW-9), and wire the gaps to two independent toggle switches installed under the layout board at each turnout.

Then when I want to retire a loco, I'll throw the turnout, drive it on to the spur, switch the toggle to kill the power to the spur, and return the turnout to the main line. 

Then energize the second spur, throw the turnout to the main, back the Loco onto the main, then throw the turnout to the main line.

Thus, I'll be able to independenly position each loco into or out of service.

Does this sound workable to you veteran switchmen?

Thanks,

BAD ORDER

Sounds good. By the way, on the ground throw issue, I found an article in O Scale Resource March/April issue (www.oscaleresource.com) on a switching layout. The builder cut the end ties from his Atlas turnouts to join them differently. He used the surplus ties to extend the switch ties around the throw bar. E-mail me off-list.